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Yes, that is so. In the end, the films are developed to the same contrast, as a standard. Once a starting place is established, one can wander anywhere.

Then there are the lighting fixtures and chandeliers made of antlers. Some of the Jackson bars have great examples of them. And no animals were injured or killed in making them.

I choose the film and the exposure, then after developing I adjust the contrast on the print using multigrade paper. I do not miss the single grade paper much now.

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After I ruined enough cameras doing easy fixes, I starting taking my cameras in for repairs.

I have gotten out of the habit of taking my Tessina out for exercise and it just sits on the shelf crying, "You don't love me any more!" So sad. :(

The film bases for 35mm, 120 and 4"x5" differ in thickness as well as the emulsion thicknesses which drive the different development times.

A sad step in the wrong direction.

Have you tried using 1/30 second or 1/60 second instead of B?

Is that the "Salt of the Earth" that we hear so much about?

No I did not. I think the chimney finder is a great way to get rid of the stray light that can interfere with the use of the WLF.

An approach to increase contrast is to develop the film 10%, 15% or 20% longer than normal. This takes some experimentation and careful note taking to have the quickest learning curve.

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When I traded in my Mamiya C330 with the 65mm, 80mm and 250mm lens will every accessory for it in the known world, I was looking for a set up just like this. This is a great ensemble!

An interesting approach that I never thought about, although I tend to use ISO 400 films.

These antlers have been shed naturally and are not from hunting. The animals seem to prefer it that way.

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I always used 31 turns for 36 exposures. Just what my machine had on its label.

As with other advice, take this with a grain of salt. 😉

Stacks of antlers form unique and interesting shapes. Jackson Wyoming has some interesting antler arches.

The choice of film controls the grain, contrast, and SBR [Subject Brightness Range]. The choice of ISO or EI influences the grain, contrast, and SBR [Subject Brightness Range]. The choice of developer influences the grain, contrast, and SBR [Subject Brightness Range]. The development time...

This is a thread were everyone jumps in and posts each's camera drug of choice.

He gets it! :)

I especially liked the Minolta Rokkor f/2.8 21mm lens. Walking around with it felt like having an automobile headlight on ones chest.

No. Uncalibrated equipment is naturally inaccurate.

The EI would mean more if the camera and light meters are calibrated, otherwise it is an random number grabbed out of the ether.

Photographs alone are enough, no more commentary is necessary.

You have found Nirvana on Earth. Enjoy is as much as I enjoy my Nirvana with my Hasselblads.

Anyone would be hard pressed to look at a photograph or group of photographs and pick out the difference between prime lenses and modern zoom lenses today. Forty years ago yes, but not with today's lenses.

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