The shutter release is as smooth as it can be. And no, you don't need to be "decisive" (i know what you mean -- if you press the shutter button almost fully on the C330 and then decide not to take the picture, the machine sometimes might think the film is already exposed.)
Most C41 ISO 100 films will be happy to be exposed at ISO 50 or even ISO 25. You will probably get richer colors too.
Just make sure to scan with a decent scanner (not a yucky flatbed) so you recover all the highlights.
Finally, expired C41 film will lose 1 stop over every 10 years. I had some...
I told you! I told everybody here... for years...
Yes, this is another problem with the P67, i hated to load rolls on it. While the same operation was very quick on the RB67. Not to mention the Mamiya C330, incredibly quick to load on a hurry.
I have this love-hate relationship with the P67...
Hahahhaa!! Loved that comparison.
Yes, sounds sensible. The ergonomics of the Pentax 67 are very good indeed. And the shutter sound is very satisfying.
When you have such a problem you need to check many things:
1. The focusing screen. It is really sitting correctly? On the ETR (and probably the SQ as well), the focusing screen matte side should rest on four beautifully polished points. Around the screen there are leaf springs that should have...
Hi Drew.
I did use mirror-lock-up on most of the shots i took with my P67. After all, it's really easy to compose, focus, and then flip the MLU button just before taking a shot. And some of those MLU-enabled handheld shots got camera shake at 1/60 and (gasp) 1/125.
I stand for what i wrote...
Well, of course that's a custom modification. Looks similar to the Pentax accesory shoe for the original Spotmatic.
It doesn't look nice but I bet it is extremely practical. I miss being able to put a flash on my F-1 cameras and someday i'll get one of the various flash couplers available for...
Yes, that 135/2.5 is one of the heaviest 135mm lenses i've ever seen. I had to sell mine, the weight was just too much. But the optical performance was superb.
However I kept my SMC Takumar 135/2.5, a much smaller lens, with also fantastic performance and what appears to be more sophisticated...
Yes, I think you're correct.
I don't feel anything missing when switching from Canon FD lenses to Nikkors to Pentaxes to Zenzanons or other lenses. The photographer is the weak link, not the lens.
I think the need for matrix is a bit exaggerated. I've shot many slide film on my life and only one (1) of those occasions was with a matrix meter (the one on the Canon EOS 5). I've shot slides mostly used centerweigthed meters, handheld meters, and using the 80/20 meter of the F3, and I never...
Interestingly that film also was intended for Lubitels. Coincidence?
Well, this is a very clever observation. Perhaps my Lubitel is a much better camera than I thought?
I'd advise to get the wooden grip, My P67 didn't have the grip and sometimes i got camera shake at 1/125. Which was the main reason I sold it. I am confident that the people who own the big wooden grip have no complaints of camera shake, since no doubt the grip will hold the shutter steady...
The RB67 pro-S (and pro-SD) have a ton of interlocks. They will baffle you if you don't read the instruction manual beforehand.
The original RB67 (non "pro-S") does lack some interlocks.
PS:
http://www.artaphot.ch/systemuebergreifend/objektive
For example:
http://www.artaphot.ch/systemuebergreifend/objektive/612-135mm-1-2-and-1-2-5-lenses
In my opinion, best tests are pictorial tests that show real-life images and let your eyes be the judge.
The site http://www.artaphot.ch has very good tests of various lenses under identical conditions, although only for landscape (infinity) use, and he often looks only at the corners. Long...
It has been long since i traveled anywhere...
Last trips I remember were to:
Cajamarca (Peru) with two Canon New F-1 cameras and Provia 100F. I got really stunning slides. Lenses 28/2.8 FDn, 35/3.5 FDSC, 50/1.8 FDn.
Bogotá (Colombia) with a Nikon F3 and Nikon F2, Acros 100
Santiago (Chile)...
The rewind knob will be only loosely coupled to the cartridge when advancing film. When manually rewinding film, it will couple completely, as it should be. I don't know if this behavior depends on the position of the wind lever.
I have a F-1New by my side but it's loaded with film, so ...
You should have replied "I'll make sure not to push the trigger of my Nikon F2 inside the store, otherwise the clack sound will misalign the rangefinders on your Leicas"
The F-1 New has a clutch so the motorized rewind won't make the rewind lever spin and (potentially) hurt you or tangle with something.
However i'm not sure it depends on the position of the rewind lever, to be honest.
Depends on the toilet paper... I use the most expensive, smoothest toilet paper. It is remarkably fluffy and smooth, cotton-like. I use it for years, no scratches on my lenses. My butt is also fine, btw.
Indeed there are many kinds of cheap toilet paper that are sandpaper-like. Horrid.
This, and the EM even more so. And the electronics on them aren't reliable at all.
I think the EM is a very cleverly designed camera, but with a poor build quality overall.
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