...44 "pearl". The surface textures are very similar, yet the Fomaspeed has higher Dmin and lower Dmax. I'm using pure red safelights and fresh ID-62, and am fully satisfied with Fomabrom variant 111.
Too bad, because RC paper also has its uses, and Foma would have a winner if they would...
You can mix ID-62 yourself. In my experience, it's reasonably long-lasting and makes good prints neutral tones and deep blacks. I like it. You can buy a gram scale (measuring 100ths of grams) for under $20 from amazon, and the chemicals are cheap and available from photoformulary.com and...
...than it used to but seems to work just fine. But it has gotten really expensive and not sure it’s worth it. I’ve been planning to mix my own ID-62 to see how it compares to LPD but haven’t gotten around to it yet. If I do and like it I may never worry about a packaged paper developer again.
...really superior.
My recent experiments, that prompted me to start this thread (no densitometer measurements yet), were made with D-72 and ID-62, and variants in which KBr is fully replaced by "equivalent" BTA. The induction time was in the range 10-15s, and the paper developed for 2min; so...
Harsh, not necessarily so, but grainy - yes. Of course, grain is primarily a function of the film used. But I find rodinal to give more visible, pronounced grain than e.g. XTOL or Pyrocat. It's not necessarily unpleasant, though.
Seems to fit the bill then!
Except ID-62 is a Universal developer and used to be recommended for films.
May & Baker (now Champion) Suprol was very similar and used extensively in photo finishing labs, their recommended use for 35mm films was 1+29. I tested FP4 with PQ Universal at 1+29 and the results were excellent...
I also add 4 g/L of disodium EDTA to the concentrate (= 1 g/L in working solution), as that lets me mix both concentrate and working solutions with tap water, with no cloudiness/precipitation.
Mark
I'm a home-brew ID-62 fan as well. I mix up a couple of liters per session using spoon measures. Quick and easy.
One can vary the tone of the prints somewhat by varying the ration of bromide to BTA in the formula, but I like it really well as is.
Best,
Doremus
+1
I like ID-62. It has ample tray-life, the concentrate is long lasting, and the color is neutral with Ilford papers. Liquidol gives a slight green tint, which is why I switched to ID-62.
You could have made 1 liter of working solution ID-62, has both Phenidone and Hydroquinone. 1 liter of stock solution uses 12g HQ and is diluted 1+3 for use. I think everybody should have their own "cookbook" with favorite recipes using popular combinations of developer agents.
Is the tray open to the air for a week? Or is it covered?
I find I get 2-3 sessions from Liquidol and ID-62, but if I store the developer in a bottle between sessions, it can last months. That's why I don't know what tray life means to people.
...bromide ----------- rounded 1/4 tsp
Water to make ---------------- 2 liters
EZPZ, fast and the dry chemicals will last for years. I make ID-62 and a few other print developers as well this way (requires a 1% solution of benzotriazole, which lasts for years too).
Hope this helps,
Doremus
...water 50C - 125F
45 g Sodium Sulfite
12.5 g Hydroquinone
67.5 g Sodium Carbonate
0.5 g Phenidone
1.9 g Potassium Bromide
0.25 g Benzotriazole
Add water to make 1 liter.
EDIT: I should mention that this formula is very close to ID-62, which is popular among home-mixers for good reason.
Mark
Interestingly, Ian, he did go on to say that 150ml to 850ml was better in his experience than 100ml to 900 which gets it close to 1+ 5. So not quite your 1+3 but much closer
Is there any way to tell from his print what might have been even better at 1+3 or for that matter what areas of his...
There's a glaring error in the video, that no-one spotted. He was actually mixing up ID-62, so it is not equivalent PQ Universal, which is 2.5x more concentrated. So when he talks about diluting 1+29 that should be 1+11,for the film developing, and the 1+9 for print developing should actually...
Ian,
I've done split developing both ways; starting with the low-contrast developer and vice-versa. I don't know if it makes a whole lot of difference. I've still got some graded paper that I often wish I could squeeze a bit more contrast out of. I'll give ID-14 a try next time I need to...
...it a very long shelf life, actually the formula (for single solution ID03) is the same as D-165/Selectol Soft.
I also often make up Ilford ID-14 which is a Press Contrast developer, it gives more contrast than PQ Universal/ID-62 or Dektol, I have quite a bit of graded paper at the moment.
Ian
I mix ID-62 myself. Just a few raw chemicals and measuring spoons. I have two liters of working solution that is going on day four in the darkroom (albeit, not a whole lot of prints each day). I store the developer in a two-liter bottle between sessions.
There is the initial investment in...
ID-62 is a Universal developer Ilford used to recommend it for films, this is from a 1960 Ilford Formulae book.
I have used ID-62 with 35mm FP4 at 1+19 and the results were excellent, fine grain, good tonal range and sharp, slight speed loss though.. I also used it extensively with Ilford...
...of Sodium carbonate and hydroquinone (will also extend development time). Mixing your own allows you to fine tune something to your needs.
ID-62 Ilford "Universal" PQ Developer...
+1 to what @relistan wrote.
An alternative is to mix E-72 in distilled water. With no calcium or magnesium salts in the water, you should not get the milky precipitate.
I use ID-62 (phenidone+hydroquinone) with 1 g/L of disodium EDTA, which is cheap.
Mark
As @albada said, for E-72 in contrast to ID-62, you really do not want to use EDTA as the chelating agent because it can help break down the ascorbic acid faster. You want to use DTPA. That’s harder to find and more expensive. Since you already have EDTA arriving, you could try it but you may...
Hey albada - after trying the E72 I did indeed get a very milky developer. It worked great and the prints came out fine, but I enjoy watching the print come to life in the tray, and clouds of precipitate in the developer made less fun. Worth the cost to add a chelating agent if it means I get...
...Ilford powder developer. Essentially ID-20 with the 3g of Metol replaced by 0.5g of Phenidone. Benzotriazole is not added to powder developer due to solubility issues. It's possible the Bromide level has been dropped to 2g instead of 4g.
Essentially it's somewhere between ID-62 and ID-78.
Ian
According to Ilford's website, Bromophen is slightly warm-tone and is PQ-based. So I'd say it's probably close to ID-78. ID-62 is also PQ-based, but is neutral tone.
Mark
Not sure. I've never used E-72 nor compared it to ID-62. I've got all the dry chemicals needed for ID-62 in rather large quantities, but no ascorbic acid, so I'll likely not be making up any E-72 anytime soon.
That said, the lack of BTA in the E-72 formula may make it a bit warmer developer...
I agree wholeheartedly. I've been using Bromophen for over 25 years, it's lovely stuff. Mixing something similar from scratch would work. I mix 5L batches in deionized water. In full glass or PET bottles it keeps for a year. None of the tar that you see with Dektol gone off.
MHOFWIW
My point was the paper emulsion is not softened during dev - or at least not much - so the precipitate wouldn't stick that easily.
I find ID62 is done at 1.5 minutes, at least with the majority of papers I use (all Ilford). Some of the ancient papers (like Medalist or Kodabromide, some of which...
...that (I think) will not be dissolved in the post-dev steps of stop/fix/wash. It's conceivable they could stick to the emulsion in the dev, and stay there forever. BTW, thanks for mentioning your normal time is 1.5 minutes in ID-62. I've been using 2 minutes, and was thinking of reducing that...
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