Triplets can be great, however what I mean is that the folders, and moreover the 6x9 folders, have some mechanical drawbacks -- it's very very difficult to keep a perfectly aligned front standard when the front standard is so massive and so far from the film plane, yet the machine needing to be...
I disagree.
What i see, for example by examining the last photo, confirms my own experience after buying many folder cameras and selling almost all of them:
Due to the big negative size (i.e. 6x9), they are capable of getting a sharp 4x6" or 8x10" print, no problem.
However they are almost...
I have two Kiev cameras, none working due to various reasons that have more to do with how well were they cared for.
Also a fully working Contax Ii; i put the rangefinder prism of the 4A, which was remarkably clear, into my Contax Ii.
Based on my Contax, I would say a working Kiev is probably...
Neither the original Contax II and III are up to the quality level of the postwar IIa and IIIa. They're a step up in fit and finish, as well as internal quality.
Hi dear Mr. GOMZ,
Congratulations on your Medalist II, someday i'll own one.
I was about to buy a Texas Leica (fuji GSW690) at a good price, until I thought "i want a medalist instead".
Then I didn't buy a Medalist (at a really really good price) because I thought "well i'll have to respool a...
Camera tech here, so maybe I can offer some comments.
The first thing you need to look is if the technician you are hiring is really a good one (look for feedback around) or a bad one. TONS of bad camera technicians are out there and they can (and will) ruin perfectly fine cameras. Then they...
"Mechanical" = "More reliable" is a myth that should die, the sooner the better.
There are satellites out in the space working for years non-stops. I can assure you their control systems are not made using gears and levers.
Professional electronics are as reliable as they need to be.
I've...
Brand association of course = marketing = better sales = success, return of investment.
Really, and I know i will put my flame-suit on, I don't think there's too much of actual R&D contributed by Hasselblad itself over the last 20? 30? years. The last time they did apply their...
This is also great advice.
I own MANY lenses, for example for Nikon i have 20, many 28, many 35mm, 50, 85, 105, 200, and in the past i've have had even more stuff like 24mm, 180 ED, 300/4.5, zooms, macros, etc.
For practical purposes you can't carry all lenses, and three is good enough. A 24...
This is great advice.
A 105/2.5 lens can totally replace a 85/1.8, it gives similar images, for practical purposes. In fact the 105 will give stronger "shallow DOF" effects.
The shutter release is mechanical on both the RB and RZ. On the RZ the closure of the shutter is electronically controlled, not the opening.
Thus both shutters (the ones for RB and RZ lenses) open via a mechanical signal.
For starters, it is lighter.
Then, it has more lenses available for it.
Then, it cocks the shutter and advances the film with the same lever, this one is a BIG advantage over the RB series.
The H system was really designed by Fujifilm (yeah, Hasselblad says it was done "in cooperation" but so far everything points out most of the hard work was done by Fuji.)
Fuji has a long long long tradition of optics, in fact they were the first japanese company to build an electronic computer...
It's best to fully disassemble the camera and let it go through a CLA. Don't attempt to do it yourself, it's risky. I can recommend you this technician on Europe, he's a friend of mine, he's very technical, serious, and applied.
https://www.instagram.com/lzfotomehanika/
Beliefs and myths are not good for humanity.
The pros used RZ67 for decades on all kinds of conditions and it was proven to be an extremely reliable machine.
Electronic shutters mean the shutters themselves are easier to service and will get consistent shutter times.
The cameras can be...
It's beautiful. That lens has beautiful rendering. I'm looking at mine now, it has smiled at me and told me "Look at my green nose ring. I have beautiful rendering."
Bronica, Mamiya, Pentax... they all make great lenses.
But IMO the Bronica lenses for the ETR are a bit better finished/built than the ones for the Mamiya 645 system.
I like my 50/2.8 PE lens. And the 150mm lenses for the ETR system, like the 150/3.5 MC and the 150/3.5 PE, are splendid.
The...
Thank you!
Yes, all of them fit your Nikon F.
The most "correct" aesthetically, are the ones that have a letter, like "Nikkor-H", "Nikkor-O", "Nikkor-Q" etc. Those are also known as "non-AI" lenses and sometimes "pre-AI" lenses. They came from 1959 to 1977 aprox. The AI lenses came later...
I fully agree with you, however the OP wants "sharpness" as main criteria and i think the AI version is a bit sharper at least wide open.
I sold my AI 200/4 as soon as i got a Q-C 200/4 so personally I do like the Q-C version...
All these lenses are not expensive and a good value
28mm f3.5, AI-S version, or H-C version
35mm f2.8, AI or AI-S
50mm... keep yours if it's optcally mint
85/1.8 Nikkor-H any version for a tele, OR
105/2.5 any version
135mm f3.5 AI or AI-S version only (Q version lower on contrast)
200/4...
+1
Richard Haw's website is thorough and has all the information you need. Just make sure to READ the separate page on "how to work with helicoids" and to follow his advice carefully.
We're lucky to have Richard Haw's pages, even though he's a bit of a anti-Canon guy ... lol...
Also note...
But... does it really have the quality of the Rolleiflex TLRs? Because that's a very high bar. I consider the Rolleiflex TLRs to have a higher build quality than, say, Leica rangefinders. But, to put an example Rollei product: The Rollei 35 cameras are far from having such quality. (And yes...
The camera needs service.
Probably one of the timing switches near the mirror box or shutter needs cleaning and/or adjustment. Or, even more likely: the memory lock switch (not the user's memory lock but the internal ML switch). But anyways, it will need a service.
The electronics on these...
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