Let's All Print (or Maybe Scan) One Negative 2025

[Don_ih]

Mytol

I use Instant Mytol 1:1, mixed up just before developing. I also aim for 21 degrees (on my thermometer, which I think is Jobo-branded, so probably decently accurate). I also have a habit of not using a meter. And, in this instance, I took a guess (based on the current version of FP4+, by my FP4 expired in 1987) as to how long I should develop. I sometimes try to stick to some kind of strict methodology. Sometimes.

I look forward to seeing your result!

 

[Reginald S]

I will visit my darkroom in nearly 12 hours. Hard conditions. Have to drive 60 kilometers and entering a cold house then (-1 degrees in the night at the moment).

I will come back with something of course, but hopefully with some success.

 

[Don_ih]

Well, folks, it's great so many have posted a result but remember there's no deadline for this activity. It's totally fine to post whenever you manage to get something - no matter how much time passes. So no one is actually "late".

 

[tezzasmall]

And finally here is my effort.

The top image is a straight print to see what the image was.

For the one directly underneath, I raised the easel on the bottom edge to try and give a slight out of focus look, but I don't think that this worked well enough.

I had an idea after seeing the initial image, that the photographer was at a distance and was taking the image surreptitiously, hidden in some bushes whilst using a basic Holga or a Diana type of camera, hence the heavy vignetting. To do this I used a dodge tool and gave the vignetted area an extra two f-stops of exposure, after giving the overall image the same exposure as the initial print.

It's not perfect in my eyes, but on the other hand it's not supposed to be I suppose. It was all good fun though!

And thanks again to the OP who organised it all.

Terry S

 

[Don_ih]

Very cool result and idea. Although I was not in the bushes

 

[Reginald S]

Ok Don - Sunday /yesterday I managed to get something


It took me 1,5 days to approximatively realize my initial idea, which came immediately after seeing Don's negative first time: I wanted to experiment with lithprinting followed by something blue-ish a try, so I bought Moersch's MT7 kit (7 ingredients to mix!)
I also wanted some mudd, a well "used" if not ancient appearing print.

I wanted to boost the negative up to 12x16", my favourite printing size.
I then wanted to do recopy by contact printing negs and positives; wanted to dodge and to burn with hand colouring, with pencils, like I love to do with paper negatives.

Saturday morning I had to start with a room temperature of 13 degrees C and so got troubles with cold stuff.
Very late in the evening, meanwhile having 19 degrees, the whole thing started to go as wanted.
I didnt't have a third day for doing the boost and contact printing stuff. But I'm very happy with my results.

Thanks to Don for his wonderful event, and thanks to the folks showing great commitments and great results!

 

[tezzasmall]

Ok Don - Sunday /yesterday I managed to get something

Good work there Reginald. It was worth the wait

Terry S

 

[Reginald S]

Done so far:

Both:
Paper Fomatone 532, the non-Baryta/paper and emulsion only WT paper.
Building up gritty Lithprints without getting enough dense to the highlights, so lithprinting further up to loosing the gritty blacks > again no succsess to the dense; >> Acid stop bath to stop the very active lith dev.

Both:
Call it handcolourizing or retouching unready prints, I then brought in my dense to the almost whitish areas (all signs, the car on the roof etc) with used Eco4812 developer and a little sponge. Both stopped, fixed and thoroughly washed.

Both:
Scratching and destroying the smooth emulsion with the rough side of the sponge.
Overdoner a bit? I can add dense to the scratches if wanted, will it do with my next darkroom session..

Warmtone print:
Nothing further; this is a less coloured 532 Lithprint with less highlitht dense but added cool tones coming from another developer..

Cooltone print:
Not really representing here the original contrast and the shiny lights ( central car as an example), it's a Lithprint followed by a potassium bromide bleach, then brought back to a slightly blue tone. Next step with Blei-Acetat (can I say Plumbum acetate in english??) and a bit of Ammonium chloride shiftet the blue to a slightly greyish blue tone. Final rinse in Moersch's clearbad which should clear the paper whites. Fomatone 532 has no paper whites, I didn't see much affect at the wet stage..

 

[Reginald S]

Thanks a lot Terry, will carry it to my lithprinting with sorrows thread, too!

 

[Don_ih]

That was an incredible amount of effort and an extremely cool resulkt, @Reginald S - great job!

 

[Reginald S]

Forgot to tell the print size (warm print) being 20x30cm here...

 

[Reginald S]

Hi Don,
I appreciate your comments, thanks a lot!
I love to do this things, so to me the effort has been to struggle first with room temperature issues, and then to learn a bit of handling with MT7.

From here I will continue my personal task as described above: enlarging your negative to a large one, and starting from there with contact printing.
My remaining last sheet of sensationel Fomatone 532 should get the best I can do.