Push processing for expired color negative & color positive films with Jobo C-41 processing kit

[Jeremy Saint-Peyre]

Hello everybody !

Pretty much everything is in the title. I put my hands on around 20 expired films from kodak, Ektar 25iso(negative) and E100V(positive). Thoses were already expired when i got them several years ago, and i did nothing with it for several years and now they are shot.

I used a toy camera that have a fixed exposure time of 1/100 and have an aperture range from f./5,6 to f./11. Wich i used at f./5,6 all the time.

So i will have to push - i guess several stops - in processing and i would like to know the general rule for pushing a stop in color, both for negative and positive cross-processed.

If you have any recommandation to compensate the expiration, i'll take it as well !

Thanks a lot !

Have a nice day,

Jeremy

 

[koraks]

the general rule for pushing a stop in color

I don't think there is any. But for color negative, try adding 20% to 30% development time for every stop you want to push.

With the film you've got there, I think it'll be a matter of developing one roll, see how it comes out and then adjust from there. I wouldn't rely on any 'rules'. An intuitive approach will be as good as any in this case. Don't be afraid to overcompensate. For instance, if your color negatives come out kind of weak in the first round, don't hesitate to add something like 40% to the development time and then try again. You'll probably be scanning this film anyway so there's a lot you can fix in digital post processing.

About the positive film I can't say much. I shot a lot of it, it's a long time ago, I used fresh film for the most part and had it developed by commercial labs.

 

[czygeorge]

Hello everybody !

Pretty much everything is in the title. I put my hands on around 20 expired films from kodak, Ektar 25iso(negative) and E100V(positive). Thoses were already expired when i got them several years ago, and i did nothing with it for several years and now they are shot.

I used a toy camera that have a fixed exposure time of 1/100 and have an aperture range from f./5,6 to f./11. Wich i used at f./5,6 all the time.

So i will have to push - i guess several stops - in processing and i would like to know the general rule for pushing a stop in color, both for negative and positive cross-processed.

If you have any recommandation to compensate the expiration, i'll take it as well !

Thanks a lot !

Have a nice day,

Jeremy

For the experience of processing expired film in E6.I recommend add FD and CD for only 1min(that's enough).
The results may won't be so good,since the black space would have fog.
I don't really understand what is cross processed,hope this could help

 

[mtjade2007]

Push processing will not bring out the lost shadow detail of underexposed negative film, including fresh and expired films. It will only yield significant amount of color crossover. Exposing the film properly is the way to go.

 

[koraks]

Exposing the film properly is the way to go.

I agree. But...'proper' exposure of film that expired decades ago is always a bit of a wild guess. In this case, I'd say "anything goes". The the results will be severely compromised is evident, and apparently acceptable.

 

[Jeremy Saint-Peyre]

Push processing will not bring out the lost shadow detail of underexposed negative film, including fresh and expired films. It will only yield significant amount of color crossover. Exposing the film properly is the way to go.

Absolutly, but my only speed was 1/100 and aperture at best 5,6... It was a toy camera, so i am not aiming for accuracy.

 

[Jeremy Saint-Peyre]

I don't think there is any. But for color negative, try adding 20% to 30% development time for every stop you want to push.

With the film you've got there, I think it'll be a matter of developing one roll, see how it comes out and then adjust from there. I wouldn't rely on any 'rules'. An intuitive approach will be as good as any in this case. Don't be afraid to overcompensate. For instance, if your color negatives come out kind of weak in the first round, don't hesitate to add something like 40% to the development time and then try again. You'll probably be scanning this film anyway so there's a lot you can fix in digital post processing.

About the positive film I can't say much. I shot a lot of it, it's a long time ago, I used fresh film for the most part and had it developed by commercial labs.

Thank you ! I'm comfortable with the trial and error method.

 

[Romanko]

i would like to know the general rule for pushing a stop in color, both for negative and positive cross-processed

Not sure if this is of any help but I found sensitivity curves for Kodak Portra 800 pushed one and two stops in the datasheet:

https://imaging.kodakalaris.com/sites/default/files/files/products/e4040_portra_800.pdf

Also, there is a table in Aerochrome IV datasheet for development time vs contrast and equivalent ISO speed:

https://www.kodak.com/content/pdfs/KODAK-AEROCOLOR-III-Negative-Film-2460-datasheet-en.pdf

 

[Jeremy Saint-Peyre]

Not sure if this is of any help but I found sensitivity curves for Kodak Portra 800 pushed one and two stops in the datasheet:

https://imaging.kodakalaris.com/sites/default/files/files/products/e4040_portra_800.pdf

Also, there is a table in Aerochrome IV datasheet for development time vs contrast and equivalent ISO speed:

https://www.kodak.com/content/pdfs/KODAK-AEROCOLOR-III-Negative-Film-2460-datasheet-en.pdf

Thanks, will look into it !

 

[Samu]

I don't think there is any. But for color negative, try adding 20% to 30% development time for every stop you want to push.

With the film you've got there, I think it'll be a matter of developing one roll, see how it comes out and then adjust from there. I wouldn't rely on any 'rules'. An intuitive approach will be as good as any in this case. Don't be afraid to overcompensate. For instance, if your color negatives come out kind of weak in the first round, don't hesitate to add something like 40% to the development time and then try again. You'll probably be scanning this film anyway so there's a lot you can fix in digital post processing.

About the positive film I can't say much. I shot a lot of it, it's a long time ago, I used fresh film for the most part and had it developed by commercial labs.

Fot E6. pushing will result a lighter, flatter image, as the process is reversed. Pulling more than 1/2 a stop is not recommended, as the base fog will be a problem. For pushing all Fuji films, the times are -1/2 5:00 N 6:00 +1/2 7:00 +1 8:00 +1 1/2 9:30 +2 11:00. Fuji suggest pushing only Provia up to ´+2. From my experience, what works for Provia, works also for Ektachrome. Note that pushing or pulling is done only with the first developer, with times for color developing not affected. Times are from Fuji Technical Bulletin. Kodak gives slightly different times in their documentation.

These figures are for standard 6-bath E6 process only, in standard 38°C temperature. "Simplified" kits may vary, and I have not much experience with them.