Zone VI Compensating Timer 110V to 220V conversion (?)

[Deleted member 88956]

I have jus noticed Zone VI Compensating Enlarging Timer was also made in 220V version. However, I happened to have the US 110V version. I suppose converting to 220V in itself is not an issue, but have not looked at it yet to deeply.

Has anyone done it? It's not so much about power source to run it, but the enlarger control output. Simple solution would be just to run a step up transformer on the output end, or use a 110V relay to switch 220V power source.

Any ideas?

 

[AgX]

The nominal mains voltage in Poland is not 220V, but 230V

But more important in this case is the mains frequency.
If a timer works electromechanically or works electronically based on the mains frequency, one will get into difficulties. If the timer is based on a crystal oscillator, then the mains frequency does not matter.

 

[Deleted member 88956]

The nominal mains voltage in Poland is not 220V, but 230V

But more important in this case is the mains frequency.
If a timer works electromechanically or works electronically based on the mains frequency, one will get into difficulties. If the timer is based on a crystal oscillator, then the mains frequency does not matter.

I use 220V as a matter of routine old time's sake. Voltage is closer to 240V actually nominal 235, step up transformers work fine. The timer in question is actually quite complex electronic timer and as far as I remember Mr. Paul Horowitz said it can be used in configuration I already stated. I had exchange with him years back over light sensor needed for compensating function.

I am just looking to see if any one has done anything like this.

 

[john_s]

I have a darkroom that's half 240V and half 110V because I bought Zone VI equipment decades ago, and more recently an Aristo VCL4500. I have always used relays to interface as necessary and I like to think that the isolation between devices is protective.

Incidentally, VTLD, I'd be interested in the type of sensor that Paul Horowitz recommended for the compensating sensor.

I asked Richard Ross at RH Designs which he uses (used?), and this was his reply (the polarity refers to the RHDesigns Vario timer socket):

........However if you prefer to make your own you'll need a EG+G Vactec VTB8440BH photodiode with IR filtering.

More info at
http://uk.farnell.com/eg-g-vactec/vtb8440bh/photodiode-ir-filtered/dp/1182340?Ntt=118-2340

Wire it so that the pin with the polarity dot goes to the outer pole of the jack plug.

Kind regards
Richard

 

[Deleted member 88956]

@john_s I need to look that exchange up and get back to you as I don't fully recall content of his response. It's been quite a few years. I got his email address starting with search, then Harvard University an eventually found his direct contact there. Was surprised to hear back quick quickly.

 

[Deleted member 88956]

@john_s It may take a bit to find that exchange as I apparently used and odd address to communicate with Paul Horowitz. But there is a thread here form the past where Richard Ritter spoke up on same thing. He is as good an authority on this subject as anyone involved. Now, I had some more specifics from Paul Horowitz on use with dichro head, so it will be worth to try and find it anyways.

You may have to take a black marker and cover half the photo cell to get a good range on the timer.
Almost any visible light photo diode will work. The Hamamatsu S1133 photodiode was the one we used in the meters and worked in the cold lights.

 

[Sirius Glass]

It may be more than voltage. In the US it is 120 V at 60 Hertz, while the EU is 220 or 230 V at 50 Hertz which would throw off the clock circuitry. Who knows what the UK runs on since BREXIT, not even the people there have the slightest idea.

 

[Deleted member 88956]

It may be more than voltage. In the US it is 120 V at 60 Hertz, while the EU is 220 or 230 V at 50 Hertz which would throw off the clock circuitry. Who knows what the UK runs on since BREXIT, not even the people there have the slightest idea.

To the extent I am aware of clock controller in Zone VI timer is no dependent on main's cycling frequency. All DC powered internally. This is easy enough to confirm, but the way this timer works, it would have unlikely made any difference since few of intermittent seconds are actual seconds to begin with.

 

[Sirius Glass]

To the extent I am aware of clock controller in Zone VI timer is no dependent on main's cycling frequency. All DC powered internally. This is easy enough to confirm, but the way this timer works, it would have unlikely made any difference since few of intermittent seconds are actual seconds to begin with.

If all the internal power is DC then the AC Hertz will not matter.

 

[Deleted member 88956]

If all the internal power is DC then the AC Hertz will not matter.

I like the timer. Sort of old school dials with quite nice electronics inside. And very well built too.

 

[john_s]

@john_s

.......You may have to take a black marker and cover half the photo cell to get a good range on the timer.
Almost any visible light photo diode will work. The Hamamatsu S1133 photodiode was the one we used in the meters and worked in the cold lights.

.

Thanks for that.

 

[Loose Gravel]

Your timer could probably be converted to 220/240VAC, but don't do it (It would require a change in wiring to the transformer and a different transient suppressor, maybe different caps). Use step-up/down transformers instead. Or isolation relays. It is a little clumsy, but much easier and it will get you printing sooner. As for the 50/60 cycle problem, I'm not sure how the Z6 measured time. When I designed the MetroLux 2, I used the crystal frequency as the timebase. Does the Z6 timer even have true seconds? If the only 'timebase' is from the light intensity, that will not be affected by the 50 cycle power.

As for photo diodes, there are several that can be used. If you are looking at a coldlight, then the IR cutoff filter (light blue) probably doesn't matter. There isn't any near-IR content to Aristo's coldlight spectrum. And if you are getting too much light, have the photodiode look at something less bright or partially cover it. Don't use a photodiode with a lens molded over it. If that is all you can get, then sand the lens flat so it is omni-directional.

 

[Deleted member 88956]

Your timer could probably be converted to 220/240VAC, but don't do it (It would require a change in wiring to the transformer and a different transient suppressor, maybe different caps). Use step-up/down transformers instead. Or isolation relays. It is a little clumsy, but much easier and it will get you printing sooner. As for the 50/60 cycle problem, I'm not sure how the Z6 measured time. When I designed the MetroLux 2, I used the crystal frequency as the timebase. Does the Z6 timer even have true seconds? If the only 'timebase' is from the light intensity, that will not be affected by the 50 cycle power.

As for photo diodes, there are several that can be used. If you are looking at a coldlight, then the IR cutoff filter (light blue) probably doesn't matter. There isn't any near-IR content to Aristo's coldlight spectrum. And if you are getting too much light, have the photodiode look at something less bright or partially cover it. Don't use a photodiode with a lens molded over it. If that is all you can get, then sand the lens flat so it is omni-directional.

Thanks. I'm along same lines. And ZS VI timer is actually labeled 50/60 Hz 110V (all DC driven inside, the only 110V output runs through for the lamp. Relays will make it easy without going inside.