Zone VI Cold Light

[fotch]

I searched the forum but could not find the info I am seeking. I just picked up a Zone VI Cold Light for a Beseler 4x5. It has three cords coming out of the top.

1. Large AC with grounded plug.
2. Smaller AC, lamp cord size, non grounded plug.
3. Round gray cord with a phono PC plug. Looks similar to an audio type cord/plug.

From what I read, one of the AC cords is for preheat, the other for the lamps. What is the gray on for?

Any help is appreciated.
Thanks
Jim

 

[jgjbowen]

The gray cord plugs into a Zone VI stabilizer, or a Zone VI Tik-Tok or a Zone VI compensating timer. These devices provide consistent exposures. Cold lights are known to drift (in terms of light output) depending on such variables as the termprature of the unit.

 

[Loose Gravel]

Maybe the grey cord is detachable at the head. Usually there is a DIN jack there. The phono plug is an adapter used with a MetroLux.

 

[fotch]

The photos show the gray cord, the side inside is by the lamp and the other end with the phono type connector. There is only two conductors in the cable. Its not detatchable.

The other photo shows the AC cord. The small lamp like cord lights the lamp. The other ?? the heater??.

Is this the old style lamp that only works with graded papers?

Thanks

http://camera35.com/APUG/ZoneVI_1.jpg
http://camera35.com/APUG/ZoneVI_2.jpg

 

[Loose Gravel]

I thought Z6 coldlights were black. Hmm. Looks like a photo sensor for a MetroLux. Looks like their installation instructions, too. Not a Z6. Not that this matters. If you need a timer/controller, get a MetroLux and you already have the probe installed. If you just use a regular timer, then ignore this cord, but don't cut it off. That would be a waste. Without some kind of compensating timer, you brightness will be a little drifty.

 

[jgjbowen]

Loose Gravel is correct. The Zone VI compensating timers use a DIN plug, not a phono plug. The MetroLux timer is the one to get for this light. On my Zone VI light the 3 prong plug is for the heater and the 2 prong plug goes to the timer.

 

[Jean Noire]

The gray cord plugs into a Zone VI stabilizer, or a Zone VI Tik-Tok or a Zone VI compensating timer. These devices provide consistent exposures. Cold lights are known to drift (in terms of light output) depending on such variables as the termprature of the unit.

Hi,
I have just started using a De vere cold light enlarger and despite leaving the unit on have noticed a change in print density, all other factors constant as far as possible. I allow it to warm up for about 15mins first.
I thought that the change in density may bave been due to developer depletion but replacing developer has not cured the problem. Would a stabiliser help or is it a necessity?
Comments would be much appreciated.
Regards
John

 

[Loose Gravel]

John, if you are seeing your highlights vary, that would be exposure. If it is the shadows, then that is the developer. If the highlights are critical to your prints, then you need some type of compensation/stabalization. This is the way coldlights are.

 

[Changeling1]

Calumet still has

their "Zone VI Guy" at the repair facility in Besenville, Ill. When my Z 6 cold-lite bulb got broken in transit, Calumet installed a new one. This operation requires some soldering and know–how. The installation of the bulb into the head was $30.00. This guy is familiar with all the Z6 products and is very helpful on these technical matters. If you're the original buyer, many Z6 products were guaranteed for life by Fred Picker and Calumet backs the pledge. Fred used to say "You'll never have to buy another ____________"! Calumet and Zone VI (still) Rock!

 

[Jean Noire]

John, if you are seeing your highlights vary, that would be exposure. If it is the shadows, then that is the developer. If the highlights are critical to your prints, then you need some type of compensation/stabalization. This is the way coldlights are.

Thankyou for replying.
Will check both highlight and shadow when next in the darkroom to establish cause.
Thanks again
Regards
John

 

[RJS]

cold light

I use a fairly recent model Aristo with a V54 tube. I made a series of 6 prints about 3 minutes apart. I could not find a difference in density no matter how hard I tried. I am sure there is 'drift' in cold lights. I just can't find it!