While not an expert, or even well versed in the ZS, feel that I can comment on what a good methodolgoy can do for your work (Thanks Donald, I like the term methodolgy as used here). I used to get negatives that were more or less ok, but not what I coudl "see" when exposing film. Moving up to MF started to bracket like crazy and would get a decent negative once in a while (more by luck than by skill). Then read Bruce Branbaums "The Art of Photography" and started to understand what all the ZS stuff was about, and with help from people on this site, like Donald Miller, Lee Carmichael, Jorge, Mateo and Les McLean it started to come together. Lee worked me through film testing and while every negative is not great, I have more that print well than ever before. There seem to be many ways to arrive at a good negative and I suggest that each individual find what works for them. But an understanding of how a light meter works, it sees everything as gray (18% gray I think) Branbaum prefers the term gray meter (can see why now). The next step is to understand how film/developer work together and finally how paper (this would include developer, light source, toning, etc) is affected by all the variables at work. This means that if you plan to contact print plt/pld, VanDyke Brown, enlarge on graded paper or using MC paper you know what to expect.
Read all you can find, but in the end there will be no substitute for actually exposing film, processing it, and then printing it. The reject bin will get full....several times, and there will be times when everything works and you will be the proud owner of a nice print. Will it happen evertime with every image...don't think so, at least not for a while, but hopefully it will happen more often and when it does not you will have the knowledge to understand why something did not work.
Just my thoughts,...does not matter if it is the ZS, BTZS or bits and pieces of each but at least you will approach exposure through drying the print with some understanding of what is really going on.