Zenitar MC 16mm Fisheye (Lens Vignetting Problem)

[neilt3]

Results from test today. Better, but a tweak is needed.

Zenitar 16mm Fisheye with rear-mounted yellow filter on a Mamiya MSX 1000. No adapter needed.

To my eye, the aperture scale landed at dead-top-center once fully screwed in. However, there is still a very small vignette in one of the corners on all shots. I think taking Neil's suggestion and loosening the screws to slightly turn the lens hood is the answer here. At that point, I'd probably dedicate the Zenitar to the Mamiya and call it a day instead of re-turning the hood for use on different cameras. Good to know that it can be done though if needed.

It would still be nice to know why the Zenitar overshoots things on the Minolta SRT-201! If the threads are wrong, I'm probably out of luck as the Minolta adapter was an ebay buy.

It's a shame the adapters are out .
The M42 adapters I have all leave the lens aligned more or less where you would expect them to be .
Sounds like these adapters might be a bit of pot luck now .

It's simple to adjust the hood for adjustment , but AgX's suggestion might be worth a try if you don't intend adjusting it too often .
Put a mark on both the hood and body in two different colours so you can quickly adjust between the positions for both cameras without having to check each time .

Regarding aperture , IIRC I tended to use it at either f/8 or 11 for best image quality and didn't notice vignetting .

 

[onre]

The use of such stub shade is limited anyway, thus reducing it a bit would not do that much harm.

I think the most important use of the shade is that you can put the lens on table "face down" without harming the front element.

 

[AgX]

Good point!
Thus if one thinks of reducing those two corners of the stubs one should look during work if their mechanical function will still be maintained.

 

[BobClack]

onre/AgX, Thank you for your comments and suggestions. Yes, the lens shade isn't so much a "shade" as it is two protuberances that are used to fasten the lens cap to. The lens cap clicks into place between these structures. One could grind them down and forego the lens cap but I'm not that daring. For now I'm going to dedicate the lens to my Mamiya MSX 1000 and address the sets screws (thank you for the suggestion AgX) down the road.

Thank you to all for your responses to this post.

Bob