Your B&W Film Process

[c6h6o3]

There are as many different answers here as respondents. I shoot HP5+ and develop it by inspection in ABC pyro at 68 degrees F. 120, 4x5, 5x7 and 8x10. Mostly 5x7.

 

[edibot42]

35mm Tmax100 in HC110 for 5.5 minutes @20°C. Kodak Indicator Stop for 30 seconds, then Kodak Rapid Fix for 3 minutes, Water Rinse, Kodak Hypo Clearing Agent for 2 minutes, then 5 minute running water wash(might change this), Photo Flo, dry.

 

[Newt_on_Swings]

Many varied responses, B&W combos are amazing because of all these options.

Myself: TMY,TMY2, P3200, Double-X in 35mm and 120. In Xtol 1:2 or Rodinal Semi-Stand 1:100 for X-amount of time in Patterson Super System4 2 reel tanks. Quick rinse then Adorama Indicator Stop (was best price/ working solution amount after dilution combo i found)~1min. Quick rinse then, Ilford Hypam 1:4 ~6min. Quick rinse, and Modified Ilford wash, 15 inversions, dump and rinse, 30 inversions dump and rinse, 45 inversions dump and rinse. Hang to try on reversed clothes pins weighted with clothes pins.

Used to use a longer wash with constant running water, but I realized it was not necessary as the films wash out clear with my method. Also no more photoflo as my negs even with 1-2 drops dried a bit sticky. I only use hypoclear on fiber prints and not on films. hypam is tested with indicator and # of fixed films marked on bottle tossed around 22-24 rolls. I dont use a stop bath when I use high dilutions for semi-stand, but use a few rinses before fixing.

 

[Thomas Bertilsson]

There are as many different answers here as respondents. I shoot HP5+ and develop it by inspection in ABC pyro at 68 degrees F. 120, 4x5, 5x7 and 8x10. Mostly 5x7.

No kidding. Regardless of what it says in information sheets and recommendations, people tend to settle for something that works, and just run with it.

For me it's Tri-X (120 & 35mm) or TMax 3200. I use Xtol developer, indicator stop bath, Ilford Hypam fixer, rinse, wetting agent, and hang to dry. Film is processed to print well on Ilford MGIV paper using replenished Ethol LPD developer. The simpler the better, so after I've used up all of my TMax 3200 it'll be only Tri-X, as I'm trying to focus entirely on the prints, and not at all on the materials. HP5+ is my contingency plan.

 

[c6h6o3]

HP5+ is my contingency plan.

It's great film, Tom. When Kodak announced that 8x10 TMY would no longer be a stock item, I went ahead and made the switch. I refuse to chase after discontinued products, even if it can be special ordered (as can TMY) and it has the added benefit of my being able to develop by inspection again. I've also found that I can place my shadows on Zone III without compromising shadow detail.

 

[Moopheus]

These days I am mostly using either Acros or FP4+ in roll film, processing in TFX-2. Acros is 18 min at 68 degrees; FP4 seems to want a little more time, 20 minutes works. Water bath, TF-4 fixer, 4 minutes. Wash is untimed, but at least 10 minutes. Then a bit of photo-flo. A "new" Shen-Hao is on its way to me, and I have a large stash of FP4+ in 4x5, so I think I will be becoming very familiar with that film in the near future.

 

[zsas]

For TriX 400..

XTOL for 6-9 mins + 2 mins Kodak Indicator stop bath + 4 mins in ilford Fixer + 2-4 min water wash + Photo Flo rinse.

Hi Christopher, Why so long of a stop? I thought Kodak said 30 seconds for film? Have you found a longer stop helps with the control of x?

http://wwwtr.kodak.com/global/en/professional/support/techPubs/aj3/aj3.pdf

 

[Thomas Bertilsson]

It's great film, Tom. When Kodak announced that 8x10 TMY would no longer be a stock item, I went ahead and made the switch. I refuse to chase after discontinued products, even if it can be special ordered (as can TMY) and it has the added benefit of my being able to develop by inspection again. I've also found that I can place my shadows on Zone III without compromising shadow detail.

Hi Jim,

I have discovered that HP5+ is wonderful. I purchased 30 rolls of it to try my way with, and could use it or Tri-X without really preferring one over the other. However, I want to stick with just a single emulsion. Since I already have a couple of hundred rolls of Tri-X, I see no reason to change until something (I hope not) prevents Kodak from manufacturing Tri-X.

I'm glad you were able to find a substitute for TMY. I remember trying development by inspection, and was dumbfounded that I couldn't view the film's progress when I was developing TMX/TMY, and I know you know this, but it has to do with the dyes that are incorporated into the film. I found that out the hard way... HP5+ works much better in that regard, as you mentioned.

- Thomas

 

[ChristopherCoy]

Hi Christopher, Why so long of a stop? I thought Kodak said 30 seconds for film? Have you found a longer stop helps with the control of x?

http://wwwtr.kodak.com/global/en/professional/support/techPubs/aj3/aj3.pdf

I don't know, because that's what I did the first time... When I didn't read the destructions - so that's just what I always do.

 

[rjbuzzclick]

Film:
4x5: Fomapan 100, HP5+ (motorized print roller drums)
120: HP5+, FP4+, Acros, Verichrome Pan, Fompan 100/400, PanF+ (hand tank)
35mm: HP5+, FP4+, PanF+ (hand tank)

No prewash
Ilfosol 3 (just switched from HC-110), Rodinal.
I generally reduce recommended developing times by around 10% to reduce highlights and compensate for using water as a stop bath.
Water for stop bath
Ilford Rapid Fixer 6-7 minutes
Ilford washing sequence
Kodak Photo-Flo
"no pressure" squeege and hang up to dry

35 and 120 negatives are either printed or scanned.
4x5 negatives are either printed or contact printed and the resulting prints scanned when needed.

RC paper in various finishes (Ilford MGIV, Arista Private Reserve, Ilford FB)
Omega D2 used for enlarging.
Tray developed
Ilford Multigrade Developer
Ilfostop
Ilford Rapid Fixer
tray wash and hang up to dry

 

[Guillaume Zuili]

Verichrome, Plus-X, Tri-X, TXP, Foma 400 in Rodinal, Tanol or Agfa 8 depending on subject, stars alignment and mood...
Delta 3200 in Rodinal.
Water rinse.
TF5 fix.

Testing TMZ right now.

 

[ronlamarsh]

My process

At the moment I am using arista EDU ultra 100 in 5x7,4x5,35, and 6x9 MF. I use miccrophen 1:1, rodinal 50:1 and D-23 1:1 depending one the lighting as I have tested all and each produces a distinctive film curve and I do get box speed BTW. If doing a very low contrast subject or still lifew I expose at 50 asa and develope in Ansco 47 1:2 for 6 min or for more contrast 1:1 for 7 min which gives a honest N+2++ and would be great for alt process a 2.2 density spread is easily obtained.

 

[Chuck_P]

Since moving to LF, I have been using TMX, but with my recent B&H order, I purchased a box of TMY and two boxes of TXP and I look forward to them. I've been looking a lot at Dead Link Removed pictures lately and he makes good old Tri-X just look so good, hope I can do so in my own way. I've developed mostly with D-76 1:1 and HC-110 1:63 and 1:119 (semi-stand). I'm a ZS advocate through and through and so expose and develop accordingly, but only after establishing personal EI's and development times. I use a 1 to 2 min pre-wash and develop in daylight Combi Plan tanks and simply finish with the standard process, indicator-stop, hardening fixer (except when I may wish to intensify the neg with selenium toner, then a non-hardening fixer), HCA, etc....

 

[ricardo12458]

Kodak Tri-X 400 in size 135 (since that's the only b&w film available locally)
Push +3 stops (3200ASA)
D-76 @ 68F: 11min
Stop bath (2% acetic acid): ~30sec
Fixer: 10 minutes
Wash 30 minutes
hang over bathtub to dry

I'm not using a wetting agent. I just leave it to dry overnight.
Considering a conversion to the Church of Rodinal.

-R

 

[PeterB]

Kodak Indicator Stop - 1 minute - 1 shot

Hi Matt. What is the advantage of using an indicator stop bath in a one-shot fashion? Isn't the point of the indicator to tell you when it has lost its acidic activity ?

 

[Klainmeister]

Both MF and 35mm:

Neopan 400 or Acros 100 shot a stop slower and processed in Pyrocat HD for 12 minutes for an average scene.

Just ordered a crap ton of Foma 100 and 400 to experiment with!

 

[mts]

Tri-X or TMax-400 bracketed +/- 1 stop, processed usually in TMax clone developer (scratch-mixed), 2% acid stop, rapid fix, and photo-flo. I process sheet film in pretty much the same sequence.

 

[RalphLambrecht]

tmx 400in d761+1f0r 10 minstopbath1.5%acetic acid1minhypam3min,(2x),plain water1min,hcaminhang to dry in drying cabinet.

 

[cliveh]

FP4 in D76 at 1:1 for 12.5 minutes at 68°F/20°C (discard dev after use).
Stop for 30 seconds (discard stop after use).
Fix in Hypam diluted 1:4 for 6 minutes (keep diluted Fix for further use).
Wash in continuous running water for 20 minutes minimum.
Dunk in de-ionised water for about 20 seconds.
Hang to dry in ambient temperature.

 

[baachitraka]

After fixing, I rinse 8-10 times vigorously but I do not know whether this is enough. I read here that many of you wash for 20-30 mins.

 

[megalime]

2 min wash
Developer
1 min stop bath
6 min fix
5 min wash
6 min hypo clear
10 min bath
1 min photoflo


Lately, been developing foma 100 for 7:30 in rodinal 1:50, 30 seconds agitayion and the 10 sec of agitation at beginning of each minute.

 

[JOSarff]

Everything at 68F (20C)

TMY - it's all I shoot (8X10, 4X5)

N-1, Normal, +1, +2
presoak in tap water -- 5:00 min
develop in PMK at adjusted times
water rinse -- :30
rapid fix without hardner - 5:00
water rinse -- :30
Heico washing aid -- 1:00
wash -- 5:00

N-2
bleach presoak -- 5:00
develop in PMK normally
all other steps the same

Joe

 

[Thomas Bertilsson]

After fixing, I rinse 8-10 times vigorously but I do not know whether this is enough. I read here that many of you wash for 20-30 mins.

Fixer is said to leech out slowly after fixing, hence the longer washing times. I believe the best way to shorten wash times is to use hypo clearing agent.

 

[removed account4]

Fixer is said to leech out slowly after fixing, hence the longer washing times. I believe the best way to shorten wash times is to use hypo clearing agent.

from what i was told by the people at heico ( the perma wash people )
fixer remover latches onto and removes free flowing kind of non attached fixer molecules
from the solution ... soaking the film / washing it allows the stuff that is embedded in
the paper / emulsion / base to was out ( osmosis ) ..

on the michaelandpaula website michael smith mentions that somehow it is beneficial to have a little
residual fixer left in the paper / film ... not sure if or how that can be true, unless it just speaks to
being something like a buffer to keep the paper and film from being acid ... ( like buffered acid free / ph neutral &c )

 

[baachitraka]

what are the consequences if the residual fixer is not washed properly...