Your B&W Film Process

[BrendanCarlson]

I was just thinking about how many developers, and other chemistry there is available to us these days and I just wanted to see what y'all are doing for your processes from Developer to whatever your final step may be...

I'll start -
For TMax 400(Which I use most) I use D76 + Kodak Indicator Stop Bath + Kodafix + Water Wash (3 times) + Hypoclearing Agent + Water Wash + Water Wash with a few ml of Photo-Flo then hang in the shower to dry.

What do you do??

 

[munz6869]

Currently:

TXP320 (exposed at ISO200) in Rodinal 1:25 for 7min at 20 degrees (or compensated), 1 min in Ilfostop, 5 min in Ilford Hypam Fixer, I water rinse, followed by 10 min of water washing, A drop of Ilford Wetting agent then hang up on IKEA Grundtal rails I've hung in the laundry/darkroom for this very purpose...

Marc!

 

[Ian Grant]

All films Fomapan 100 &200, Ilford Delta 100 & 400, HP5, Fortepan 200, and EFKE 25 get processed in Pyrocat HD followed by a water rinse then fixing in Hypam or Ilford Rapid fixer followed by washing in 5 changes of water over 5 mins in the UK final rinse in tap water with 2 drops wetting agent, in Turkey bottled water with 2 drops wetting agent.

Hypo clear isn't needed with films.

IAn

 

[BrendanCarlson]

The hypo clear helps get rid of the purple tinge in Tmax from what I've read. That's why I use it. Am I wrong??

 

[darkosaric]

I use Rodinal for all films except: HP5+ in D76 or HC110, CMS 20 and kodak TP in adotech or technidol. For fixer I use fomafix or ilford rapid fixer. For final rinse I use demineralized water for ironing.

 

[jayvo86]

Ilford Films (Sometimes Tri-x)

Ilford ID-11 (Stock)
Ilford Ilfostop
Ilford Rapid Fixer
Rinse 5 min
Ilford Washaid 5 min
10 min rinse then hang in shower after one squeegee

However, I do plan to experiment with some different chemistry in the future though I'm waiting till I really "know" my film before I start changing things.

 

[wilfbiffherb]

heres my process:

http://twelvesmallsquares.blogspot.co.uk/2012/01/how-to-home-develop-black-and-white.html

although lately i have been ditching the prewash

 

[Ed Bray]

Any format/make/speed of B&W film (including chromagenic C41):

All at 21 degrees Celcius in temperature bath.

5 minute pre soak
Semi-stand development in Caffenol CL (30 sec agitation then 3 inversions after a further 2, 4, 8, 16 & 40.5 minutes)
4 water washes
Alkali Fix for 4 minutes
Wash with 8 tanks of water, constant agitation 45 seconds each (15 secs drain and fill)
Final dunk in wetting agent for 1 minute (or so)

 

[baachitraka]

Pre-soak for 2 minutes.

Rodinal 1+50 for 16 mins with 10 seconds agitation at every fifth minute for ISO 100 film.

AdoStop for 2 minutes.

AdoFix for 4 minutes.

Calbe Netzmittelbad/Schlussbad 30 seconds.

 

[Peltigera]

I use either Adox CHS 100 or Rollei Retro 100 films. I develop both in ID11 diluted 1:3, fix with Ilford Ilfostop, fix with Ilford Rapid Fixer, final rinse with domestic washing up liquid (VERY dilute). Cannot hang them in the shower to dry as Bestbeloved is likely to notice them AFTER her shower, so I hang them in the office.

I have tried Caffinol a few times but I thing I am doing something wrong.

 

[Peltigera]

I use Rodinal for all films except: HP5+ in D76 or HC110, CMS 20 and kodak TP in adotech or technidol. For fixer I use fomafix or ilford rapid fixer. For final rinse I use demineralized water for ironing.

You iron your negatives?

 

[Ed Bray]

You iron your negatives?

 

[P C Headland]

PC-TEA 1+50 or Rodinal 1+100 (depending on mood and film) at 20C, water stop (1 minute), fix with whichever rapid fixer I have available, wash according to Ilford's washing method, then a final rinse with a little photo-flo. Then hang to dry overnight in the shower.

 

[andrew.roos]

Delta 100 with Ilford chemicals.

ID-11 1+1 from stock one-shot (11 minutes for normal, with 4 inversions every minute).
Ilfostop stop bath (10 s)
Ilford Rapid Fixer (3 min)
Wash in tap water, 5 inversions.
Wash in tap water, 10 inversions.
Wash in tap water, 20 inversions.
No squeegie, just hand negs to dry at an angle in the darkroom.
Not currently using a rinse/wetting agent.

 

[Wade D]

I'm using Arista Premium 400 for 35mm & Fuji Acros 100 for 120.
Nothing fancy about the processing:
D-76 (1:1 when needed)
Water stop bath
Arista Rapid Fixer
10 minute wash
Dip in 1L water with 1/2 cap Photo Flo 200
Hang to dry
Keep the cat out of the room so he doesn't think the film is a toy!

 

[removed account4]

i use a variety of films, all expired, all more than a few years out of date
sumatra 130 ...
stand developed between 30ish mins
fix &c ...

 

[ChristopherCoy]

Compared to everyone else's process, I either look simple, or clueless.

For TriX 400..

XTOL for 6-9 mins + 2 mins Kodak Indicator stop bath + 4 mins in ilford Fixer + 2-4 min water wash + Photo Flo rinse.

 

[darkosaric]

You iron your negatives?

 

[MattKing]

Compared to everyone else's process, I either look simple, or clueless.

For TriX 400..

XTOL for 6-9 mins + 2 mins Kodak Indicator stop bath + 4 mins in ilford Fixer + 2-4 min water wash + Photo Flo rinse.

No, just a user of high quality chemicals in a straightforward process (although you might want to check whether your wash is long enough).....

In my case:

Kodak Plus X and TMY, in either 35mm or 120

3 minute pre-soak
HC110, 1 + 49 dilution, replenished
Kodak Indicator Stop - 1 minute - 1 shot
Ilford Hypam - film strength - 2 baths - 1st bath until clip clears, 2nd bath for same time (fixer is re-used to about 2/3 manufacturer's recommended capacity, or until clearing time extends too long)
1 minute running water rinse
2 minutes Hypo Clearing Agent (mostly 1 shot)
10 minute gently running water wash with at least two dumps and refills in the middle
Kodak Photo-Flo 1:200, with the dilutant being mostly water, but partly 70% Isopropyl alcohol
Hang to dry in shower.

 

[madgardener]

<snip>
Hang to dry
Keep the cat out of the room so he doesn't think the film is a toy!

Amen! I had 2 rolls that were completely destroyed because my cat thought they were toys.

 

[pschauss]

- Rodinal 1+50 (PX, Legacy Pro-100, Double-X at 250, or UN54 ), HC110 H (Tri-X), Diafine (Double-X at 650).
- Kodak inidicator stop bath (30 seconds).
- Ilford Rapid fix (five minutes).
- Water rinse using the Ilford 5-10-20 inversion method with an extra fill for 40 inversions (tap water).
- Final rinse in tap water + 5 drops of Photo-Flo.
- Hang to dry in the shower.

 

[kevs]

I always pre-soak film with water and a few drops of wetting agent to prevent air bubbles. My 'normal' film is FP4 Plus, which I develop in ID-11 at 1:3 dilution. I develop for twenty minutes at 20 degrees, agitate for 30 inversions over the first minute, then agitate for about 30 seconds each two minutes. After twenty minutes I dump the developer and rinse with water twice; I never use stop bath with film. Then fix, wash with ten changes of water, add wetting agent in the final wash, remove from the tank and dry. I find my developing is very reliable and consistent, except when I use exhausted developer by mistake like I did recently! :-D

Cheers,
kevs.

 

[Sirius Glass]

I use replenished XTOL in a Jobo processor or in a metal tank. One of these day I will get around to try the Pyro Rollo that I bought a while back.

Plus X 120 while it lasts.
Tri X 35mm & 120
Tri X Professional 120 while it lasts
Tri X Professional 4"x5"
Ilford HP5+ 4"x5"
Ilford FP4+ 4"x5"

Steve

 

[grahamp]

Usually Delta 100 (EI 50), Delta 400 (EI 200), HP5 (EI 200)

Thornton 2 bath 5min and 5min (under review)
>1 min acid stop
4 min fix (Hypam)

multiple changes of wash water.

Normally done on a Jobo CPE, but the same process is used for hand tanks. 21C usually.

Graham

 

[mrred]

Mostly reversals these days with foma 100, un54, n74+ and while supplies last plusx, neopan 400 with

dektol+hypo,bleach,clear,iron out,photo flo and dry

But I do tmy, acros with

xtol replenished, fix, photo flo and dry