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Yongnuo rf-603: Buying decision.

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After mod it works with all the cameras I have but I did not test the 1/500th of the second with Rolleicord.
 
I will definitely give a test tonight from 1/125...1/500.

1/500 = 2 milli seconds.

After mod, wake up time for RF-603c may be -> 0

Old Rolleicords may not be 1/500 @1/500, so I may have a chance for syncing @1/500.

Yeah, its an ugly arthematic but let me see how it goes.
 
Last edited by a moderator:
I will definitely give a test tonight from 1/125...1/500.

1/500 = 2 milli seconds.

After mod, wake up time for RF-603c may be -> 0

Old Rolleicords may not be 1/500 @1/500, so I may have a chance for syncing @1/500.

Yeah, its an ugly arthematic but let me see how it goes.

Great! Let me know how it goes, I'll try them mods too then!

Sent from my LT26i using Tapatalk
 
Syncing with focus plane shutter and with central shutter is quite a different thing. For the latter you need to:
- not trigger to early, while the shutter is still closed or opening (the case when you switch the bloody M/X lever to M)
- not induce to much delay, so as flash would be triggered when the shutter is already closing (or closed)

If you triggered while the shutter is opening or closing, you would get underexposed image (and perhaps deeper DOF).

If your flash is fast and your remote trigger doesn't delay, you usually can sync to the shortest time provided by the lens/shutter. That's by the way what central shutters are for.

With a focus plane shutter (most of bodies with TTL-metering) you never (bar using HSS) can go below the X-sync speed, the shortest time when the whole frame is open at a time, otherwise you'd get unexposed strip on the edge of the frame.
 
@1/500th of the second the flash should fire exactly when shutter(leaf) is fully open. But, I am not sure how lazy RF-603c will be.

I will try to post the results or the inference once my tests are completed.
 
It's quite easy to test: in a dark room (not necessarily in total darkness) point the flash and the lens to a wall, and just watch from the other side of the lens how the aperture looks like while flashing: if it's round, it's OK, if it's like a star (or a starfish) it's bad; if you can't see anything, it's even worse.

Don't point the flash directly to the lens. Reduce the power. You may want to repeat the test for several times, and if you flash directly to the lens you may not be able to see anything anymore :smile:
 
Yeah, right now the camera is loaded with Foma 400. ;-)
 
I shot a roll during the weekend and did not develop it yet.
 
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