Yashicamat 124G film winding issue

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albireo

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Hi everybody

I have owned a Yashicamat 124G for a few months - I really like it! The camera worked fine when I purchased it however due to a hazy/mouldy taking lens I decided to send it for CLA. Mark Hama seems to be well known as a repair technician for this kind of camera so it went there. My experience with him was not so great for many reasons. However, he did indeed clean the lens, which is now perfect. Sadly though, I now have issues with the winding mechanism that weren't there before.

Essentially, the problem is that the camera 'believes' there is a 220 roll in it even when there is a 120 one loaded. When I get to the last frame (12), and press the shutter button to shoot the last picture, winding the crank will take me to a (non existent) 13th frame. The crank will then lock again, with the camera ready to take a (non existent) 13th shot.

It wasn't like this before: the crank would spin freely after frame 12th, until I felt no resistance anymore and could unload the wound roll. Currently, the only way to unload the roll is to continue winding the crank, cocking the shutter and firing a series of foo shots from frame 13 to frame 24. When frame 24 is reached, the crank will then spin freely allowing me to unload the film.

Any idea what could cause this? Is it solvable?

Some additional info:
-the film plate is correctly set to 12 exposures, not 24
-the small window on the right side of the camera correctly shows 12ex, not 24ex.

Thanks for any help!
 
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albireo

albireo

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Thanks - this is not an option. The technician is in the USA and I'm in the UK. My experience in terms of communication with him was less than ideal and I would rather avoid sending the camera it to him again. Additionally, while I specified 'broken used camera - to be returned after repair' on the customs declaration (and used a matching customs code on the form), the technician did not, which meant I was charged customs + VAT for the whole value of the camera. Not nice and I'd like to avoid going through the same experience again, if possible.
 

Arbitrarium

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Thanks - this is not an option. The technician is in the USA and I'm in the UK. My experience in terms of communication with him was less than ideal and I would rather avoid sending the camera it to him again. Additionally, while I specified 'broken used camera - to be returned after repair' on the customs declaration (and used a matching customs code on the form), the technician did not, which meant I was charged customs + VAT for the whole value of the camera. Not nice and I'd like to avoid going through the same experience again, if possible.

To be honest, I've had a similar experience, but with a guy in New Zealand. Came back with a different problem to the one I wanted fixed, but it's just not worth the postage cost to send it back to the guy that broke it. I feel your pain.

If you think it's worth throwing any more money at it, you could try Miles Whitehead. UK based, very (very) reasonable prices, fast service.
 
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albireo

albireo

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Thanks - I have actually dealt with Miles, I sent him my Olympus OM2n for a CLA last year - great service. I wasn't aware he also services TLRs which is great. I might give him a ring.

But before doing that, just to check this is not due to wrong handling on my side - or perhaps something that's really easy to solve (lubrication? Slippery backing paper? Anything else people might suggest?)

Thanks!
 
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Fritzthecat

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Have you read the owners manual? When loading 12 exposure roll, is the pressure plate completely in place for 12 exp? Does the number 12 show in the window at the crank (not the exposure counter)? When the pressure plate is moved to the 24 position, it pushes on a small actuator in the body, similar to the "0" reset rod, make sure it isn't stuck. Link to manual:
http://www.butkus.org/chinon/yashica/yashica_mat124g/yashica_mat_124g.pdf
 
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albireo

albireo

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E. von Hoegh

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Try shifting the pressure plate to the 220 position, actuating the transport mechanism a bunch of times, then shifting it back. Try gently warming the camera first. If this gets it going in 120 mode, it indicates a lubrication issue which is easily solved.
 
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albireo

albireo

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Thanks - I tried it, sadly the issue remains.

I first noticed the glitch while exposing (for the first time with this camera) a roll of Provia 100. I wondered if an unusually slippery Fuji Provia's backing paper could be the culprit. Having now tested a roll of Fomapan 100 and one of Ektar 100 I can confirm this happen regardless of film. Sadly, something goes awry with the winding mechanism when frame 12 is reached. I also noticed that inter-frame spacing is now wider than it used to be across all frames: this seems to cause the image in frame 12 to be truncated (not enough film left on the spool perhaps?). Yes, I do align the green arrow on the camera with the line on the backing paper when loading a roll.
 

MattKing

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For completeness, try using the camera with the pressure plate set for 220. If it counts and rolls correctly for a q2 exposure 120 roll in that position you will at least have a more usable camera.
 

Scott Micciche

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Take a look at this video, it details some similar issues, although yours isn't jammed, it give a good look at the internals.


 
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albireo

albireo

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Thank you Scott, that looks quite useful, I might give it a try. For the time being I'm using the camera as it is, ie. I'm firing the shutter 24 times per roll before unloading my 120 roll with 12 exposed frames. A real hassle..
 
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