Yashica Mat Viewing Lens

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thuggins

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I just got a sweet Yashica Mat with schmutz on the lenses. Initially I feared it was fungus, but it appears to be garden variety schmutz. Taking lens came off with the rubber tool - mirabile visu! The viewing lens won't budge. Could this perhaps be a left hand thread? (I'm haunted by thoughts of Ricoh and Kodak).
 

Donald Qualls

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The general rule in machine design is to never use a left-hand thread unless it's actually needed. If it's not a geared lens setup like a Kodak Reflex/Reflex II or Ricohflex (or at least one version of Argoflex), there's no sensible reason for it to have a left hand thread. You might need to remove a retaining flange from the mirror side, though. I'm not a Mat fixer, however (not even a Mat user, and the prices have gone beyond where I'll go with a working Reflex II in hand), so confirm with someone who is before you take the focusing screen off or risk damage to the mirror.
 

DWThomas

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I have a set of exploded parts views for the Mat 124g and it looks as though there is a setscrew behind the camera lens mounting plate that allows locking the viewing lens setting. I know an old Flexaret here had setscrews on the viewing lens also. I chickened out and had Mark Hama do a CLA on mine a couple of years back, so I've not personally attacked that area.

YashicaMat124G_LensMounting.PNG
 

PFGS

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I just got a sweet Yashica Mat with schmutz on the lenses. Initially I feared it was fungus, but it appears to be garden variety schmutz. Taking lens came off with the rubber tool - mirabile visu! The viewing lens won't budge. Could this perhaps be a left hand thread? (I'm haunted by thoughts of Ricoh and Kodak).

I recently disassembled the entire front of a Yashica D, and the taking lens was one thing that simply would not budge.

EDIT: It's the set screw, see above. TIL.
 
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thuggins

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Hey guys, thanks for the update. I must have had my head up my a$$ to not think of that. A while back I did a complete CLA on a RolleiCord and it worked the same way. That is probably pretty standard on TLR's with moving lens boards.

In my defense, the most recent project was a Kodak Reflex II. So I was kinda fixated on unscrewing lenses. Also in my defense, Chrysler used left hand lug nuts on the driver side back when I was working in a service station. That's a memory that haunts you for the rest of your life.
 

Dennis-B

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Hey guys, thanks for the update. I must have had my head up my a$$ to not think of that. A while back I did a complete CLA on a RolleiCord and it worked the same way. That is probably pretty standard on TLR's with moving lens boards.

In my defense, the most recent project was a Kodak Reflex II. So I was kinda fixated on unscrewing lenses. Also in my defense, Chrysler used left hand lug nuts on the driver side back when I was working in a service station. That's a memory that haunts you for the rest of your life.
93 T'bird LX Coupe had left hand lug nuts because of the wheel design, so tires could only be rotated front-to-back.
 

Donald Qualls

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Also in my defense, Chrysler used left hand lug nuts on the driver side back when I was working in a service station. That's a memory that haunts you for the rest of your life.

I recall reading (around fifty years ago) that this was an artifact of the Mopar stock racing legacy -- for quick pit stops, they used "spinner" wheels, same five holes we're used to, but for alignment only; held on by a single "knock-off" nut with three big fins on it (that the pit crew would smack with a rubber hammer to loosen and tighten). They quickly found that the wheelspin on a hard start (is there any other kind in racing?) would loosen those knockoff nuts, so they started making them left hand thread -- and then trickled that down to their street cars. They changed to standard thread around 1970, as I recall -- my parents had a '73 Duster (that my brother learned to street race in) that had standard thread on the lugs all around.

93 T'bird LX Coupe had left hand lug nuts because of the wheel design, so tires could only be rotated front-to-back.

How the heck do you design a wheel so it needs left hand nuts on one side? I'm sitting here now trying to picture what sort of wheel/nut/stud interface could make right and left side wheels not interchange... :blink:
 

Dennis-B

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I recall reading (around fifty years ago) that this was an artifact of the Mopar stock racing legacy -- for quick pit stops, they used "spinner" wheels, same five holes we're used to, but for alignment only; held on by a single "knock-off" nut with three big fins on it (that the pit crew would smack with a rubber hammer to loosen and tighten). They quickly found that the wheelspin on a hard start (is there any other kind in racing?) would loosen those knockoff nuts, so they started making them left hand thread -- and then trickled that down to their street cars. They changed to standard thread around 1970, as I recall -- my parents had a '73 Duster (that my brother learned to street race in) that had standard thread on the lugs all around.



How the heck do you design a wheel so it needs left hand nuts on one side? I'm sitting here now trying to picture what sort of wheel/nut/stud interface could make right and left side wheels not interchange... :blink:
Left-hand threads on the left side were nothing new in 1993. The idea was that the wheels on the right had right-hand threads, and the wheels on the left had left-hand threads, would be self-tightening.

On the T'Bird, the wheels were designed unique for the left and right side. The spokes of the wheels were convex on the leading edge of the design, concave on the left side, so they'd look correct on each side. The right and left wheels and lug nuts had left- and right-side part numbers, just like fenders, doors, etc.
 

Dusty Negative

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after servicing a Century Graphic i loaded a Graphic 23 with Delta 400 and went out to a park to test it out. I metered a scene, opened the camera and realized I forgot to install the lens. OOPS!

So, how'd the pictures turn out?
 
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thuggins

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So, how'd the pictures turn out?

I could provide various examples of that. Between interchangeable lenses and dark slides, I have a significant portion of frames that are either unexposed or completely fogged.
 
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