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XTOL failure

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I think the light straw color is a hard thing to define with Xtol and the (going bad) rule. My Xt-3R(same as Xtol-R) has a light straw color also, but works as good today as the day I mixed it. I think the slight discoloration with my replenished XT-3R comes from adding the used developer back into the 1 gallon stock jug, but I could be wrong. I have heard many folks here say their Xtol went bad and still looked as if it were just mixed. I don't know since I have never experience that problem, but it scared me enough to just keep using Adox XT-3. I have enough problems in my life as it is, I surely don't need one more.
 
I have the same problem with the new US XTOL, read here:

 
I have the same problem with the new US XTOL, read here:


As far as I'm concerned, the 2025 Kodak chemistry still lives in the realm of "use at your own risk".
 
I'm actually looking into making the switch to XTOL or the Adox equivalent at the moment (for cost reasons, currently using DDX for a lot of my work and I like it but I think I'd like another developer in my arsenal). Could anyone give me some tips on mixing/storage/usage/care/etc? I've seen some stuff online but sometimes I find the information to be contradictory.
 
I'm actually looking into making the switch to XTOL or the Adox equivalent at the moment (for cost reasons, currently using DDX for a lot of my work and I like it but I think I'd like another developer in my arsenal). Could anyone give me some tips on mixing/storage/usage/care/etc? I've seen some stuff online but sometimes I find the information to be contradictory.
What! Contradictory info online? You must be using a different internet. ;-)

Other than the standard "best practices" advice such as:
carefully follow the mixing instructions,
store in full, tightly sealed glass bottles away from heat and sunlight, etc.
... you might consider two additional precautions for XTOL:

1. test the your XTOL solution before each use by developing a piece of the film leader to be sure it turns black as expected. As discussed in previous posts, XTOL does not turn dark when it expires, so it's hard to know when it has gone bad without actually testing it.

2. mix and dilute using distilled / deionized water. Kodak puts an agent in the formula which sequesters iron which can cause the developer to fail (due to Fenton reaction). I suspect your tap water would have to be unusually high in iron to exceed the capacity of the sequestering agent, so di water is probably unnecessary for most users, but if in doubt...
 
I'm actually looking into making the switch to XTOL or the Adox equivalent at the moment (for cost reasons, currently using DDX for a lot of my work and I like it but I think I'd like another developer in my arsenal). Could anyone give me some tips on mixing/storage/usage/care/etc? I've seen some stuff online but sometimes I find the information to be contradictory.

Follow the directions and consult the Kodak technical publication for XTOL (J-109). Everything else you read is anecdotal and of questionable reliability - at best.
 
I use the 1 litre packages of Adox XT-3 and mix with the half amount of tap water. I fill the 500ml in 10 brown 50ml glass bottles to keep the concentrate fresh until I use it. Store it in the cool basement and use them within 6 months (it may last much longer, but I did not test it). Take care for the proper dilution when you set up your working solution. I never had any issue with it.
 
What! Contradictory info online? You must be using a different internet. ;-)

Other than the standard "best practices" advice such as:
carefully follow the mixing instructions,
store in full, tightly sealed glass bottles away from heat and sunlight, etc.
... you might consider two additional precautions for XTOL:

1. test the your XTOL solution before each use by developing a piece of the film leader to be sure it turns black as expected. As discussed in previous posts, XTOL does not turn dark when it expires, so it's hard to know when it has gone bad without actually testing it.

2. mix and dilute using distilled / deionized water. Kodak puts an agent in the formula which sequesters iron which can cause the developer to fail (due to Fenton reaction). I suspect your tap water would have to be unusually high in iron to exceed the capacity of the sequestering agent, so di water is probably unnecessary for most users, but if in doubt...

Thanks for the info!

Also I work as a research chemical engineer so I've got access to DI water from work if need be :wink:
 
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