X-TOL, Microphen, or Acufine for long shelf life pushing developers?

[Unbuiltbread]

I always end up pushing my film so I’m looking for a developer made for pushing, with a longer shelf life since I cut back a lot on b&w film lately. I’ve always used D76 and had some pretty good results with some pretty extreme pushes (K400 @ 25600), but wondered how it would look with a developer more suited for pushing. Right now I am using Agfa Aviotphot 200 (Rollei 400s) but use a ton of the 400 speed Ilford films. I usually have a 1-3 stop push when shooting.

X-TOL, Microphen, and Acufine are all the developers that are good from pushing in my experience, so which is the best for shelf life? I’m wary of X-TOL since I heard it can die quite suddenly

 

[John Wiegerink]

Well, I'm just about the opposite of you and almost never push my film. That said, Acufine was always noted for a speed increasing developer. I never tried it, but I did try and still use some discontinued Ethol UFG and that's a near twin. UFG will give you a good 1/2 stop with just a normal development, but even more if you push. So I'd say Acufine would be worth a try, but Microphone is right there too. All this depends on the film and I know nothing on pushing either of the films you mention. If it were the old Tri-X I'd say break down and buy some Diafine, but you're not talking that film.

 

[otto.f]

I’m wary of X-TOL since I heard it can die quite suddenly

That’s true. 6 months of shelf life after making the liquid at best, but what’s more is that it goes down suddenly, an X-tol solution which works half or so-so hardly exists. In my memory Acufine has the longest shelf life

 

[retina_restoration]

The best developer for long shelf life is one made from scratch from the component chemicals. Fresh whenever you need it and the chemistry lasts for years (decades?).

 

[npl]

If by pushing you mean both underexposing then overdevelopping :

My understanding is that developers that are good at keeping details in the low zones (good shadows details, full box speed) such as XTOL are natural candidates for pushing so when underexposing the shadows still get a fighting chance.

But if we're talking extreme pushing such as more than 2 stops below the actual box speed (note : Aviphot 200 is not ISO 200 for pictorial use but lower) I'm not sure it would matter much because the shadows will be crushed no matter what. At this point anything works and I would recommend HC110 for it's very good shelf life.

 

[Paul Howell]

I always end up pushing my film so I’m looking for a developer made for pushing, with a longer shelf life since I cut back a lot on b&w film lately. I’ve always used D76 and had some pretty good results with some pretty extreme pushes (K400 @ 25600), but wondered how it would look with a developer more suited for pushing. Right now I am using Agfa Aviotphot 200 (Rollei 400s) but use a ton of the 400 speed Ilford films. I usually have a 1-3 stop push when shooting.

X-TOL, Microphen, and Acufine are all the developers that are good from pushing in my experience, so which is the best for shelf life? I’m wary of X-TOL since I heard it can die quite suddenly

I recently mixed up the last gallon of my Acufine stock, and have used Microphen in the past, no experience pushing with Xtol , used D76 a lot in the 70s and 80s. Kodak still recommends D76 over Xtol for pushing. I think all three developers you are interested in have a life of about 6 months in stock solution. If you are willing to keep looking at Ebay you can find old stock Acufine in cans in the quart size. I think Mircrophen is only available in 1 liter size, while Xtol is only sold in 5 liter size. Foma does sell a liter size of their version of Xtol but it is expensive. If you are pushing in the 1 stop range for for cost, mix your own D76 as needed. For 2 to 3 stop push, old stock Acufine in quart sizes. It might be hard to find.

 

[MattKing]

By two packs of XTol. Mix one up into stock/working solution and divide it into a few well sealed smaller bottles.
Use that at first for six months - I'd suggest 1 + 1 dilution - then start doing clip tests before developing each film.
If/when you start to see a sign of change in activity, discard any unused XTol stock, mix up the next batch, and order another package.
Or do what I do - use XTol in a replenishment regime.

 

[koraks]

The best developer for long shelf life is one made from scratch from the component chemicals. Fresh whenever you need it and the chemistry lasts for years (decades?).

^^ This!
It's also super flexible; with half a dozen ingredients one can mix dozens of different formulas.

 

[WhereSs]

I recently mixed up the last gallon of my Acufine stock, and have used Microphen in the past, no experience pushing with Xtol , used D76 a lot in the 70s and 80s. Kodak still recommends D76 over Xtol for pushing. I think all three developers you are interested in have a life of about 6 months in stock solution. If you are willing to keep looking at Ebay you can find old stock Acufine in cans in the quart size. I think Mircrophen is only available in 1 liter size, while Xtol is only sold in 5 liter size. Foma does sell a liter size of their version of Xtol but it is expensive. If you are pushing in the 1 stop range for for cost, mix your own D76 as needed. For 2 to 3 stop push, old stock Acufine in quart sizes. It might be hard to find.

For what it’s worth, Bergger Berspeed is a Microphen clone and it can be found in 5L bags. (The times are identical with Microphen (1+1) and I have treated it as Microphen stock solution with no issues.) Probably not that much easier to find or cheaper, but it’s an option that exists

 

[benderscameracorner]

For the past couple of years I've used Microphen almost exclusively (local shop sold me their entire chemicals stock for 10% of retail price to get rid of it all) and found the 1L working solution is good for many, many months, just stored in a plastic 1L bottle. You can certainly dev a couple more rolls beyond the 10 per 1L guidance from Ilford, if you want, though I wouldn't and don't do this with any 'critical' films.

I've only deliberately pushed fresh film a few times in recent memory - all worked as it should - but have developed a metaphoric tonne of expired Tri-X which I've rated at anywhere between EI100 and EI1600 depending on my whim/moon phase, and develop at either EI500 or EI800 and have never failed to get reasonably usable images.

Microphen is good stuff, very capable and excellent value too if you're only developing a few rolls a month.

 

[retina_restoration]

^^ This!
It's also super flexible; with half a dozen ingredients one can mix dozens of different formulas.

I would add to this: you can use FX-55 which is an Xtol clone of sorts (Phenidone + Ascorbate) that you can make up quickly and easily if you make up the stock solution of the alkali/sulfite (Part A, diluted 1:9 to use) and add the Ascorbate powder and Phenidone (from a stock solution of Phenidone in Glycol) and you have an ideal "on-demand" Xtol copy that you need never worry about suddenly failing.

FX-55 is:

Part A
Potassium Carbonate: 20g
Sodium Bicarbonate: 1.5g
Sodium Sulphite: 25g
Sodium Metabisulphite: 12g
Water to 1,000ml and dilute 1:9 for the working solution. Before use add B to the diluted 1:9 diluted A solution to form the working strength developer.

Part B
Sodium L-ascorbate: 1.3g
Phenidone: 100mg (0.1g) I highly recommend making up a 1% solution of Phenidone in Glycol and use that to make the working solution. When dissolved in Glycol, you can expect the Phenidone to remain viable for at least a year (or two).

This developer is nearly identically to Xtol in every way. You can even use your Xtol times as a reasonable starting point (may require some adjustments to suit your needs)

 

[Craig]

So part A is a stock solution and B is a recipe for working strength?

 

[mshchem]

Buy a bottle of Adox Rodinal for shelf life and cheap. I don't get extreme pushing of film. Sounds like a perfect application for that new fangled electric photography.

I routinely keep XTOL stock up to a year, stock solution, full PET bottles, mixed with purified water.

 

[John Wiegerink]

If I want longevity I do what Matt does by using Xtol in a replenished system, but I also keep a bottle of Rodinal and Kalogen (homemade) on the shelf. All three of those last a long, long time, like in several years.

 

[retina_restoration]

So part A is a stock solution and B is a recipe for working strength?

Part A is a stock solution that, when diluted 1:9, becomes your working solution. Then, add the components listed in Part B to the diluted Part A to create your working developer.

Rodinal is a poor choice for “pushing” film, as it is recognized to deliver the least shadow detail compared to most other developers.

 

[runswithsizzers]

I mix up XTOL with DI/distilled water and then I pour the stock solution into five 1-liter amber glass bottles. The last batch I mixed up was still good after 10 months.

Another strategy I am going to try is buying Adox XT-3 in one-liter packages, so I'll be mixing up smaller batches, more often.

I don't do much pushing, but I have metered some Delta 3200 at EI 1600 and developed it in XTOL. That film has an actual ISO of 1000, so metering it at 1600 is a very modest push, and probably not instructive for your purposes. Results here.

 

[pentaxuser]

That’s true. 6 months of shelf life after making the liquid at best, but what’s more is that it goes down suddenly, an X-tol solution which works half or so-so hardly exists. In my memory Acufine has the longest shelf life

That's not been my experience nor several others who have responded in other threads involving Xtol. My experience, based on storing the 5L in winebags is that more than a year is possible. As for "sudden death" it will of course depend on the intervals between use in that an OK stock at 12-15 months might have died if not used again for say another 6 months but that may not be sudden. It will have deteriorated gradually over the period of that 6 months

I noticed that Xtol turns a slight straw colour after a certain time which indicates it is beginning to lose its effectiveness but remains usable for a period

I suspect but do not know for certain as I have never tried it that the method of separating the 5L of stock into say 250ml full bottles and using each one completely will give an equally long life or possibly longer life as my winebag method

pentaxuser

 

[MattKing]

FWIW, the datasheet for XTol - in its various versions - differs when it comes to replenishment.
In addition to being self-replenishing - unlike most developers that require a different formulation for the replenisher than the initial working solution - XTol instructions do not specify discarding the working solution after a certain amount of replenishment. Many people are successful in running the same batch of XTol for years, providing they use and replenish it regularly.

 

[Augustus Caesar]

I always end up pushing my film so I’m looking for a developer made for pushing, with a longer shelf life since I cut back a lot on b&w film lately. I’ve always used D76 and had some pretty good results with some pretty extreme pushes (K400 @ 25600), but wondered how it would look with a developer more suited for pushing. Right now I am using Agfa Aviotphot 200 (Rollei 400s) but use a ton of the 400 speed Ilford films. I usually have a 1-3 stop push when shooting.

X-TOL, Microphen, and Acufine are all the developers that are good from pushing in my experience, so which is the best for shelf life? I’m wary of X-TOL since I heard it can die quite suddenly

Film cannot be "pushed". You cannot get more speed than what the manufacturer has put into it.

 

[otto.f]

That's not been my experience nor several others who have responded in other threads involving Xtol. My experience, based on storing the 5L in winebags is that more than a year is possible. As for "sudden death" it will of course depend on the intervals between use in that an OK stock at 12-15 months might have died if not used again for say another 6 months but that may not be sudden. It will have deteriorated gradually over the period of that 6 months

I noticed that Xtol turns a slight straw colour after a certain time which indicates it is beginning to lose its effectiveness but remains usable for a period

I suspect but do not know for certain as I have never tried it that the method of separating the 5L of stock into say 250ml full bottles and using each one completely will give an equally long life or possibly longer life as my winebag method

pentaxuser

Nevertheless, I prefer ADOX XT-3 which is an Xtol version that comes in 1L or 5L and has the advantage that the powder does not spread chemical dust and has a longer shelf life too.

 

[albireo]

Film cannot be "pushed". You cannot get more speed than what the manufacturer has put into it.

Augustus - I see what you mean and I mostly agree, but I am starting to believe that these people who default to "pushing" film are not always after higher speed (they'll often choose to push in full midday sun conditions!). I think what they're after is easier pre-canned contrast in their scans.

I think the reason this pushing obsession has spread on social media is because many people are not in full control of their film photography workflow (many tend to outsource development and scanning to a lab). What I suspect then happens is that they'll get very "flat", unedited scans from the labs and lack the tools or expertise to control contrast in post processing (whether via photoshop levels adjustment or printing choices in the darkroom).

So then "pushing" is a way to get those lab scans to look a bit more contrasty, more dramatic, and ready to share on instagram without faffing with levels, gimp or choice of paper.

 

[albireo]

I don't get extreme pushing of film. Sounds like a perfect application for that new fangled electric photography.

Please don't tar everyone with the same brush. I am into that new fangled electric photography and the look of pushed film makes me gag.

 

[mshchem]

Please don't tar everyone with the same brush. I am into that new fangled electric photography and the look of pushed film makes me gag.

Exactly, why fool with trying to push film 6-8 stops when low light performance using *#!ital is so easy.

 

[albireo]

Exactly, why fool with trying to push film 6-8 stops when low light performance using *#!ital is so easy.

Sorry then I had misunderstood you, I thought that by electronic photography you meant hybrid nah no &€ital cameras for me: no light, no pictures

 

[runswithsizzers]

Nevertheless, I prefer ADOX XT-3 which is an Xtol version that comes in 1L or 5L and has the advantage that the powder does not spread chemical dust and has a longer shelf life too.

When you say ADOX XT-3 has a longer shelf life than Kodak XTOL, can you tell me please, what are you basing that on?