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WTB/WTT Jobo CPP2 boards or the motor/pump/heater unit

Discussion in '[Classifieds] Want to Buy' started by KennyMark, Sep 24, 2013.

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  1. Sep 24, 2013 #1
    KennyMark

    KennyMark Member

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    Looking for spare parts or a donor unit to upgrade my older style CPP2 unit from B&W to use for color too. I've isolated the issue to the heater control board. I think there are multiple ICs that are bad.

    This was my backup/parts machine before I sold my primary unit. I don't know what it's worth to me to fix it yet, but thought I'd see what's out there that people will part with. I know that CatLabs will probably tell me to just buy an upgraded model. :tongue:

    So if you or anyone that you know has the top or both boards, or is willing to sell the whole control/motor/pump/heater unit, let me know.
     
  2. Sep 24, 2013 #2
    CatLABS

    CatLABS Member

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    You might just be able to find a donor machine to get your going again, not sure what the total over all cost would be, you could get lucky.

    While we have piles of upper and lower boards for CPP2's, but chances are you have a bad IC on more then one board causing your issues (i am not even sure what issues you are having), and by the time you have found it, you will have replaced all the electronics on your machine, save the actual motor and heating element.

    Getting an upgraded control unit is the easy way out :tongue: (you knew i would say that!), but there are also other options, if you do not resolve your problem, let us know.
     
  3. Sep 24, 2013 #3
    polyglot

    polyglot Member

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    Have you checked the heater element itself? It should be about 15 ohms for the 115VAC model; if it's open-circuit then that's the problem. The element and the output driver are the most-likely things to fail; why would you think you have "multiple ICs that are bad" ?

    If you don't want to buy a new Jobo board(s), you could hook the heater & thermometer up to a commercial PID controller unit; they're pretty cheap.
     
  4. Sep 24, 2013 #4
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    KennyMark

    KennyMark Member

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    I had EE.E showing on my display. You showed me the diagnostic page that pointed to the temp sensor unit, or one of two ICs. I replaced IC48, then saw flickering 88.8. At that point, I was getting heat from the coil. That symptom pointed to IC47. But shortly thereafter the displays went dark and I lost heat.
    If you bring your piles of boards to Chicago, there is a chance I could find one or a pair that work. Maybe I could help you unpack. :whistling:

    I'm buying an ATL2+ just as soon as I have all the cash assembled so this really isn't all that critical as you're not shipping your new E6 kit yet either.

    I would like to get it going though...
     
  5. Sep 24, 2013 #5
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    KennyMark

    KennyMark Member

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    Polyglot, I have considered doing that type of modification but I've not investigated a supplier yet. Any sage words of advice you could offer? I'm guessing it would best have it's own thermostat and sensor. It would be nice (and safer) if I could tie it in with the float, but that isn't a deal breaker for me.
     
  6. Sep 24, 2013 #6
    CatLABS

    CatLABS Member

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    You were on the right track. EE.E usually means bad sensor (located inside the impeller shaft housing), or bad contact on the lead wires to the sensor.
    It might be that OC's were ok to start with. Then when you got 88.8 you walked into another issue, but most likely the display and heater are not working because of the thermal overload protection fuse - did you reset it and try again?

    I have never yet seen a failed heating element on a Jobo machine (other then ones that were corroded to the point they broke in half).

    It is common for more then one IC to fail at the same time, and often time, the problem is one of the IC partially failed on one of the upper boards and another failed one on the DC board. any other failed small element on any of the boards, or corrosion can cause issues with the thermostat control and display on the CPP2, though it does not sound like this is your problem.

    Where are you getting your ATL+ from? we just finished refurbishing one, and will put it on the market as soon as we are set up in our new place... :smile:
     
  7. Sep 24, 2013 #7
    polyglot

    polyglot Member

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    If you're about to buy an ATL, I wouldn't bother with an offboard PID. It's going to be pretty hacky.