Want to Buy WTB: Vacuum easel or plans for vacuum easel for an UV box.

[Per Bjesse]

I am looking for an actual vacuum frame or plans for a vacuum frame for alt-process (mostly carbon printing). I am not very satisfied with the sharpness I am getting out of a conventional contact frame. I mostly print 8x10-11x14 so it does not necessarily have to be able to go super big (although going larger as an option might be nice).

 

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[glbeas]

If you are lucky you might find an old platemaking unit from a print shop. They are getting harder to find as shops upgrade to laser units. I have a NuArc frame stashed in the back of my darkroom that would do but Im a half a country away near Atlanta.

 

[Per Bjesse]

Yeah, I know. None around right now unfortunately around my area but I will keep my fingers crossed. I'd love to take that NuArc off your hands but Atlanta is a ways from where I am unfortunately. I am hoping someone has plans, there seems to have been some posted online but they have all been taken down.

If you are lucky you might find an old platemaking unit from a print shop. They are getting harder to find as shops upgrade to laser units. I have a NuArc frame stashed in the back of my darkroom that would do but Im a half a country away near Atlanta.

 

[jim10219]

Why are you looking for a vacuum easel for alt. process? For a silver gelatin, I could understand since the negative is projected. But for alt process, you have to keep the film flat against the paper, which means the vacuum won't work on the film on top, just the paper on bottom. That means that you'll still need a sheet of glass over the top. Even vacuum easels that I've seen in print shops that use contact printing as a method have glass tops, and just use the vacuum to secure oddly shaped mediums, like stretched silk screen frames where the frames have to be exposed vertically. And they wouldn't work well with paper, as it's too thin and would likely crumple under vacuum, since the back is basically just a loose rubber sheet.

I think your best bet is to stick with the contact frame and figure out a way to use a more culminated light source. Also, turn the negative over so that the ink or silver particles touch the emulsion on the paper. I've never had issues with sharpness in my 11x14 glass contact printing frame. Maybe you just need a new contact printing frame.

 

[Per Bjesse]

Hi Jim,

What I am specifically looking for is a vacuum frame, maybe vacuum easel is a misnomer. In a vacuum frame vacuum is induced between a rubber mat and the glass frame. This creates a ton of pressure by sucking the mat against the paper/negative sandwich and the glass. This is most definitely something that alt-process folks use both with paper and with artifacts like carbon tissue. It is especially important with carbon tissue as the tissue is not necessarily of completely uniform thickness and you want to make sure that the entirety of the tissue is in perfect contact with the negative. Print shop exposure units with vacuum frames for screen printing is in heavy use by alt process foks.

Regards,
-Per

Why are you looking for a vacuum easel for alt. process? For a silver gelatin, I could understand since the negative is projected. But for alt process, you have to keep the film flat against the paper, which means the vacuum won't work on the film on top, just the paper on bottom. That means that you'll still need a sheet of glass over the top. Even vacuum easels that I've seen in print shops that use contact printing as a method have glass tops, and just use the vacuum to secure oddly shaped mediums, like stretched silk screen frames where the frames have to be exposed vertically. And they wouldn't work well with paper, as it's too thin and would likely crumple under vacuum, since the back is basically just a loose rubber sheet.

I think your best bet is to stick with the contact frame and figure out a way to use a more culminated light source. Also, turn the negative over so that the ink or silver particles touch the emulsion on the paper. I've never had issues with sharpness in my 11x14 glass contact printing frame. Maybe you just need a new contact printing frame.

 

[John Koehrer]

You might try looking for "photo equipment you can build" on ebay or abe books.
I have one here, somewhere but can't find it right now. I think it was put out by one of the old camera magazines.

 

[James Bleifus]

But for alt process, you have to keep the film flat against the paper, which means the vacuum won't work on the film on top, just the paper on bottom. That means that you'll still need a sheet of glass over the top.

Vacuum easels work just fine with alt process, and don’t require additional glass. The paper passes air through, while the negative doesn’t. The neg pins the the paper down.

Cheers, James

 

[glbeas]

Vacuum easels work just fine with alt process, and don’t require additional glass. The paper passes air through, while the negative doesn’t. The neg pins the the paper down.

Cheers, James

Well, you’re halfway right. The paper is no more permeable than the film, but using a vacuum easel the film is usually masked up bigger than the paper and this traps the vacuum underneath and pulls the film into tight contact with the paper with a little massaging to push the air bubbles past the edge of the paper. Back in the film days of graphic arts this was a regular thing making halftones. Throw the film down on the vacuum back in the camera then lay down the halftone screen over the film and wipe it down to put it in good contact. It takes about an inch overlap and being sure theres no vacuum leaks around the film.

 

[Bob Carnie]

I am looking for large Vacumn Frame as well I am in Toronto , willing to drive .

 

[James Bleifus]

Well, you’re halfway right. The paper is no more permeable than the film, but using a vacuum easel the film is usually masked up bigger than the paper and this traps the vacuum underneath and pulls the film into tight contact with the paper with a little massaging to push the air bubbles past the edge of the paper. Back in the film days of graphic arts this was a regular thing making halftones. Throw the film down on the vacuum back in the camera then lay down the halftone screen over the film and wipe it down to put it in good contact. It takes about an inch overlap and being sure theres no vacuum leaks around the film.

You’re doing alt process much differently than I. Your approach sounds like mine when I worked in a print shop in high school. Perhaps you’re doing digital negs? Using a film negative, my paper is always larger than the film, and the paper is more porous, allowing the air to flow through.

Cheers, James

 

[KenS]

I am looking for large Vacumn Frame as well I am in Toronto , willing to drive .

Bob,

Being 'retired' and surviving on my pension 'income' I 'made my own 16x20 inch contact printing frame... its not a vacuum frame, but i made wooden 'springs' that provide enough pressure to ensure the original 8x10 negative .. or my digital negatives on PICTORICO OH 'film (using the 'slightly 'frosted side' is in 'good contact' with the paper. when under my home built UV light source
I can send you some Q&D digital images of 'both' if you might like to see them, BUT,,, If I were to 'need a new UV light source I might 'look' at UV 'reflector type' lamps to greatly 'reduce' my required exposure times (usually around 20 to 30 minutes)

Ken