Wrong film speed - aaaargh!

[asota]

...just discovered that I accidentally shot a roll of FP4 at 800 ASA . Need to push process, but does anyone have any ideas for the correct development time in Ilfosol 3? I am currently unable to get hold of any other developer (I can live with golf balls) and need to develop the roll asap. Thanks.

 

[cmo]

The Massive Dev Chart says this:

http://www.digitaltruth.com/devchart.php?Film=FP4&Developer=Ilfosol+3&mdc=Search

It goes up to 400 ASA at 24 degrees... I would give it a daring 15 minutes. You will get very contrasty negatives.

 

[Krzys]

Haha I shot a roll of fp4 at 400asa and developed asif it was Hp5. Results sucked.

 

[snallan]

If you cannot reshoot, my personal choice for such heavy underexposure would be to use DD-X rather than rely on Ilfosol 3. If you can get hold of DD-X I would recommend the standard dilution, developed for 18 - 20 minutes.

If not, then go with cmo's suggestion, either way it is going to be well contrasty!

 

[cmo]

Haha I shot a roll of fp4 at 400asa and developed asif it was Hp5. Results sucked.

Once, a long time ago, I did not drag it back into the cartridge and left the leader out. I exposed the film twice and ruined all photos taken in two assignments...

 

[Brandon D.]

Trial and error may be the best way to approach this. Shoot another roll of FP4 at EI 800 (on purpose this time) in lighting conditions similar to your original roll. In the dark, cut the roll into thirds. Now you have three practice strips that you can experiment with, using various developing times until you get the results you want.

 

[asota]

...thanks, folks. Looks like test strips. Woo hoo.

 

[2F/2F]

Your low-toned detail is gone for good, no matter what you do in development. You can salvage some mids and highs by overdeveloping the film. You'll end up with more contrast and more grain than normal. I don't know about Ilfosol S specifically, but I would expect to more than double your normal development time. I might also halve the dilution and/or try some snip tests on another roll shot similarly.

Development time at EI 200 in Ilfosol S 1:9 is 7.5 minutes. You need to push two grades beyond that. I might try it at 1:4 for 10 minutes if I had to take a shot in the dark...however, you do not have to. Shoot and develop that test roll!

Krzys; In general, HP5 times are shorter than FP4 times. If you used an HP5 time to develop underexposed FP4, your "results sucked" because you actually pulled the film instead of pushing it, making the resulting negative even "worse" than it would have been with normal FP4 development.

 

[Krzys]

I know, it was a complete accident - damn unmarked bulk rolled film

 

[trexx]

I know, it was a complete accident - damn unmarked bulk rolled film

Damm DX reading cameras. Has happened to me to but not with the ones you set yourself.

TR

 

[PhotoJim]

Masking tape over the DX code, if the code is wrong - or use other cartridges with no DX code, or the correct code.

I use a label maker to print little labels with film type. I make two per roll, one for the cartridge and one for the plastic canister in which I put the roll. As an added bonus I've learned where to put the labels so that I can read them through the film window on my cameras.

 

[fotch]

Trial and error may be the best way to approach this. Shoot another roll of FP4 at EI 800 (on purpose this time) in lighting conditions similar to your original roll. In the dark, cut the roll into thirds. Now you have three practice strips that you can experiment with, using various developing times until you get the results you want.

Absolutely brilliant!

 

[Ian Tindale]

I agree - the new Ilfosol 3 (as well as the ancestral Ilfosol S) is probably among the least suitable among developers for pushing. It'll do it, but there's many others that will do it better.

 

[wogster]

Masking tape over the DX code, if the code is wrong - or use other cartridges with no DX code, or the correct code.

Or use an older camera from before they started this silly DX business..... I have a couple of them. Another option would be to get some aluminum tape cut a piece the right size to cover the DX code, then paint in spots to cover those that should be black, effectively making the proper DX code for that film.

You can find the codes here

Hmmm, label maker eh, I have used masking tape, but glue on computer printed labels would also work. The problem though with most glues is that they are impossible to remove. So if I use FP4 X 24 in a cartridge, it's tough to use TMY x 36 later in the same cartridge without a nasty buildup from the labels. Yes you can use chemicals like acetone for removing the labels, but it can be nasty stuff and if any got where it was not supposed to, it could melt the film.