Worth seeing!

[mono]

Great images!

German photographer

Wolfgang Mothes
http://www.wolfgangmothes.de/

 

[BobNewYork]

Unbelievable images! I gotta get me some of that IR stuff. I've been saying that for too long now - perhaps Wolfgang Mothes will finally prod me!

Thanks for directing us his way.

Bob H

 

[Marco B]

Well, now there is someone who knows and pushed the Zone system to it's absolute limits! It's almost uncanny how well the overall contrast is controlled, just like if the pictures were based on HDR d*****l photography (which they aren't from the quick brief survey of some of the articles and texts on the webpage, it's all analog...).
Interesting to see all of the technical articles, although it requires a working knowledge of German to read them.

 

[Jeff Kubach]

Wonderful pictures, I wish I can do that.

Jeff

 

[BobNewYork]

Does anyone want to translate the PDFs? Or am I going to forced to take a German class?!!!

 

[Marco B]

Does anyone want to translate the PDFs? Or am I going to forced to take a German class?!!!

Well, after the experience with the Kodak 1958 "How film is made" translation and subtitling, I can assure you that I will be the last one volunteering

Although I read German, it would be one hell of a job... you might as well take an option on that German language class...

My suggestion: download the documents, and than copy paste the texts in Google Translate and start praying it will come up with something legible. :rolleyes:

 

[BobNewYork]

Thanks Marco - that may be easier!!

Bob

 

[naeroscatu]

OMG! unbelievable; definitely must read the technical info he provides. Thanks for this link, Folker.

 

[jinx]

If anyone needs help with the language, i will try my best. My german is grate but my english ....

Marc

 

[Marco B]

OK, not a translation, but I thought for the curious minded that it might be useful to have some idea of the techniques he is using. This is just based on a first quick reading of a small amount of the technical texts:

- Spotmetering to determine total contrast range of scenes.
- Zone placement of shadows (e.g. Zone II or III)
- Over- or underexposure in conjunction with N minus and N plus development to reduce or increase neg contrast
- Pre-flashing of film (and almost certainly paper, but I have yet read a very small amount and it wasn't yet mentioned)
- Burning and dodging, including masking of certain areas of the final print by extremely carefully cutting out of mask objects (e.g. a building) from a developed positive print to allow very selective dodging. This mask object is than placed and aligned on the easel and final printing paper to hold back certain areas.
- Use of (selenium) toning to adjust contrast

So, basically, classic Zone system work combined with about every trick from the darkroom cookbook... and tons of paper and skill!

 

[BobNewYork]

Marco - you are a gentleman. Thank you sir.
These aren't Infrared images? I'm amazed.
Thanks again.

Bob H

 

[mike c]

Mothes certainly knows his stuff. Can't wait for my daughter to stop by,she sprechen zie Douce,doch,doech duoche (Germain)!!! I sure don't

Mike C.

 

[ghost]

What format is this can you tell?

 

[mike c]

I think he mentioned 6X7,but I looks like a lot of perspective control for that.

mike c.

 

[Tori8x10]

Folker, thanks so much for that link. He is amazing and awe inspiring and... I have spent the last 2 hours looking at his site and everyones site that he has linked. I'm on sensory overload and can't wait to go back and look more! Any idea what his prints are selling for? His train work has mesmerized. Thanks again!

 

[Marco B]

Marco - you are a gentleman. Thank you sir.
These aren't Infrared images? I'm amazed.
Thanks again.

Bob H

Bob, some images are infrared, but most are not. However, he does use filters (yellow, yellow/green, orange, red, blue, green) to adjust contrast as well, even for architectural photography! This last usage is quite ingenious, like the picture below, that used a blue(!) filter to darken up the reddish / beige starecase and lighten up the windows sky so as to print it completely white.

I can now add a few more method he uses:

- As said, careful choice and usage of filters (yellow, yellow/green, orange, red, blue, green). Here's another picture using the not so common blue filter, in this case used to enhance contrast in the red crane and to enhance the fog:

- Red filter to darken sky and lighten up building (building was red granite or something):

- Red + polarizer to enhance darkening effect of sky, make it black (and almost certainly burning in and dodging to enhance drama):

- Waiting for overcast days to shoot building interiors with windows to avoid harsh shadow and difficult to control contrast, most likely applied here:

- Pre-flash of film to reduce contrast or better said heighten sensitivity, for example applied here in combination with a 1 stop underexposure for factoring in the pre-flash and further control (puts film already in Zone I or II):

- Fogging of some parts of the print to darken a sky, sometimes using a separate negative based on a Zone III exposure of an object without texture, like a shot from a wall, just to get a negative completely filled with a regular grain pattern and no image information. For example used here to darken the sky (this shot also used holding back of the building by cutting it out of another print and placing it on the paper as described before and considerable burning in around the central kiosk structure using different grades: hard in shadows, soft in other parts):

- Partial softening by defocusing in printing stage (at least for part of the paper exposure time). For example applied in this IR shot, combined with additional burning in to dramatize shot:

- About nightshots:

As a general rule
* At least 2/3 to 1 2/3 of stop overexposure in conjunction with 25-40% shortened development to reduce contrast and especially hold back highlights
* 95% of pictures use N-2 zone exposure and development
* Reciprocity factored in of course and is added to the overexposure mentioned above and necessary for contrast control (may require additional shortening of development time over the 25-40%)
* Shadow placement Zone III
* Typically, most of his pictures are made at dusk, so as still to have some contrast between sky and buildings, however, some are also in complete darkness

Typical shot that applies all this:

- And to keep unwanted lights (cars / bicycle) out of the picture: carton to cover lens when a car drives by, most likely applied here, as how else would you get such a bridge car light free during a long night time exposure shot?:

What format is this can you tell?

All formats up to 4x5, including panorama on 35 mm using 15mm Heliar lens on range finder.

Marco

 

[BobNewYork]

Unbelievable Marco - thanks man. As far as I'm concerned he's taken it al to another level. A true master of both his art and his craft.

Bob H

 

[naeroscatu]

Thank you Marco, really appreciate your efforts to shed some light into his methods. I'm still in awe...

 

[mike c]

Thanks a lot Marco ,now I don't have to wait for my daughter to stop by.

----------------
_Mike Clark__
===========

 

[stradibarrius]

Great images!

German photographer

Wolfgang Mothes
http://www.wolfgangmothes.de/

This is outstanding!!! I wish I could read German...

 

[JMC1969]

I'm suddenly not as happy with my last roll, as I was 6 minutes ago.

 

[jamesgignac]

Really glad to have had this to look at as I waste away a day at my part-time job for Sears Home Central.

I've been looking, reading Marco's posts, analyzing, looking up definitions, and learning a whole heck of a lot!

Thanks again for the posts!

 

[nicefor88]

That's why I love photography!

(even though architecture and urban landscapes are not my cup of tea)

 

[keithwms]

Well, why don't one of you guys (and gals?) invite him to apug for a group interview.

Incidentally, for those who enjoy this IR work, let me also suggest Geir Jordahl's book.

 

[stradibarrius]

Great idea Keith!!! This guy has a style and technique that seems bigger than life!