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Workhorse Replacement?

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Nikon F100
 
F4 is very solid and smooth... Also it labors to focus and the focus assist is awkward spot for me....

Hmm, I have an F4 and an F6 and I have never had an issue with the focus on my F4 - either with speed or accuracy. Never thought I wish I had my F6 with me instead.
I've used a 50 1.8G, 50 1.4D, 28-105 D, 24 2.8D, Sigma Art 35 and 50 1.4...
The G and Art lenses can only be used in Shutter or Programme modes.
 
F5 and a 85mm AF-D f1.4. Stop buying Soviet junk, keep using the gaffers tape for a couple months/quarters/years until a nice F4s or F5 comes along. Or a spectacularly mint N90 for £50.
 
Well, all my lenses are Ds, so no issue there. Tbh, I am pretty sure I am going to save up for a 4s, it just seems like a robust and well featured camera for about half the price of an F5. The Fed 2 arrived yesterday and it's gorgeous! Just a shame the range finder needs calibrating, as I don't have the skillz to sort it out but don't fancy spending 4s money on having it serviced. There are days when I think I should have picked something less ridiculous as a hobby than film photography.
 
Make a pinhole body cap for that Fed, and you won't care if the RF works or not. :wink:
 
But then my Ondu would be jealous! I have found a manual that takes you through adjusting the range finder, so will give it a go. Have you done the pinhole body cap thing for your bodies? I gave it a go once but made the pinhole too big so I just ended up with a load of Gaussian blur!
 
I had some experience making and measuring pinholes before I made a pinhole cap for my M42 bodies, so I got pretty good results. One limitation is that a flat cap will have a projection distance close to your flange-to-film dimension, which is usually a little long for 35 mm pinhole -- on M42, for instance, it's 45.6 mm, and a 35 mm pinhole camera works better at 15-30 mm projection. Now, your Fed (or any M39 LTM body) has one of the shortest flange-to-film distances going -- thirty-some mm, as I recall. Should work quite a bit better than the one I had on M42.

Load with Tri-X and make up a batch of my Super Soup, and you can hand hold in daylight, even as dim as cloud shadow (three stops off Sunny 16) at EI 5000-6400.

For a single 35mm roll in a stainless tank:

6 ounces water
24 ml Dektol stock solution
8 ml HC-110 syrup (or 32 ml stock solution)
1 g ascorbic acid
1/2 tsp washing soda (sodium carbonate monohydrate)
2 g potassium bromide (optional)
Water to make eight ounces

Develop fifteen minutes with vigorous agitation every 30 seconds. Tri-X 400 from the 90's will give EI 6400, Tri-X 320 from the same time frame is good for 5000; grain is obvious, but tolerable (not much worse than a 1-stop push in Parodinal) and contrast seems near normal.
 
My 135 workhorse is a much loved and much-abused Nikon F-801s. It's a great and economical camera that does almost everything I need - the only thing missing is a mirror lock-up function for when I do landscapes.

Get another one. You know the camera, you love it, and they're cheap. If you can do without spot metering, the non-S is even cheaper. And while you're at it buy a spare. Don't forget to search for N8008/N8008s, the camera's American name.

PS, I have one, not my favorite thing to shoot with and the AE system sometimes guesses way, way wrong, but it is a magnificent camera. Love the lenses.

Aaron
 
...
I also didn't want anything that might be unreliable and unpredictable, or turn out to be basically a brick.

So I've bought a FED-2 with a 50mm f/3.5 Industar.
...

Fed-2 might last a bit, just how did you get to this, given the premise of your thread, I will never know. I assume, for now your Fed isn't a brick. I have a few, like the looks, not so much using them though. But as any light tight box, it is capable of delivering within its limits.
 
The F100 is delightful and has never let me down. I bought it in very used condition and have put hundreds of rolls through it myself without a single problem. I recommend it highly.
 
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