Wista 45SP catastrophically broken; any ideas to repair it?

[atomicthumbs]

I just pulled out my Wista for the first time in years, unstuck the jammed front rise, and was feeling good about shooting it again.

Then I tried to shut it, thinking that both of the main lock knobs were unlocked. One wasn't. Even with only light pressure, the base cracked.

There's a crack all the way through the right side, and partway through the left. If I put any pressure or stress on it it threatens to separate. Any ideas on repairing this? Is there any way to remove the bed and make it easier, or is there a service/disassembly manual available for the thing?

 

[AgX]

The ultimate way would be complete diassembly of that part and having it microwelded.

 

[B.S.Kumar]

I believe this may not be an SP. An SP is black in color. If it has the "micro-focus" knobs, it is a 45D. If not, a 45N. The SP also has front swing, which the brown Wistas do not.

Wista is still in business and it may be possible to repair it. I can help you get it done. I don't know where you are located, but shipping would be expensive.
If you look carefully, there are three parts that have been put together:
1. the square part of the upper body,
2. the small U-shaped upper part of the dovetail, and
3. the bed that also has the lower part of the dovetail.

Part 2 is broken on your camera.

The first two parts are held together at the knobs. If you can get those knobs out, all three parts can be separated.
This is probably a job for a repairer, unless you can do it yourself.
I may be able to find the part for you, or source a donor body with the requisite parts intact.

Kumar

 

[Bob S]

I just pulled out my Wista for the first time in years, unstuck the jammed front rise, and was feeling good about shooting it again.

Then I tried to shut it, thinking that both of the main lock knobs were unlocked. One wasn't. Even with only light pressure, the base cracked.

There's a crack all the way through the right side, and partway through the left. If I put any pressure or stress on it it threatens to separate. Any ideas on repairing this? Is there any way to remove the bed and make it easier, or is there a service/disassembly manual available for the thing?

View attachment 231484

Again, Bob Watson at Precision in IL.

 

[wyofilm]

Bob Watkins?

 

[Bob S]

Bob Watkins?

The US service center for Wista. Precision Camera in IL.

 

[ic-racer]

Looks like an older model camera, so probably will cost more to fix than a new camera. Personally, I'd get out the JB Weld for this one. If that does not hold, look for another camera.

I had a disaster like this with my 4x5 Horseman FA. I got a quote from one of the top camera machine shops to have a new lever made and it was almost half the price of the camera. I made a mockup pattern to send for them to machine a new one, but it turned out the mockup piece I made worked just fine!

 

[wyofilm]

The US service center for Wista. Precision Camera in IL.

I was clarifying his name. I believe it is Watkins and not Watson.

 

[mshchem]

Loctite (Henkel) makes some amazing adhesives. Depending on your budget. Epoxy is amazing, super glue is amazing if applied properly. Getting it repaired by a pro costs, but it would be right.

 

[shutterfinger]

I'm assuming that's aluminum that's cracked. I would disassemble the standard as described in post 3. Once apart find a clamp that you can hold the piece together tightly with while a product cures. A corner clamp, C clamp, or locking pliers may work.
Use Locktite 271 red thread locker in the crack, clamp, let cure fully. I have used it to hold steel together and it worked well. If it does not hold try regular JB Weld or ask Ford Motor company for some of their body adhesive used on the F series aluminum body trucks.

 

[mshchem]

I'm assuming that's aluminum that's cracked. I would disassemble the standard as described in post 3. Once apart find a clamp that you can hold the piece together tightly with while a product cures. A corner clamp, C clamp, or locking pliers may work.
Use Locktite 271 red thread locker in the crack, clamp, let cure fully. I have used it to hold steel together and it worked well. If it does not hold try regular JB Weld or ask Ford Motor company for some of their body adhesive used on the F series aluminum body trucks.

That sounds like a good idea. Clamp it well but not so intense that is squeezes out all the Loctite.

 

[AgX]

If an aluminium part already at low forces breaks in that position due to leverage, I would not even consider glueing (and I glued a lot with hot cured epoxy).

 

[abruzzi]

I secon the JB Weld idea. It won’t be pretty, but it will probably work.

 

[jim10219]

Put me down in the JB Weld camp. If properly cleaned, clamped, and allowed to cure, that stuff is terrific for everything except high temperatures (Like above 500° F) and anything where sheer strength or flexibility is required.

Of course, actual welding is better, if you can figure out a way to get that done.

 

[AgX]

I secon the JB Weld idea. It won’t be pretty, but it will probably work.

Glueing can be done practically invisible.
Welding does need surface grinding afterwards.

 

[John Koehrer]

I've used JB Weld for years with great success. But! When you have a lever as long as the front standard
It will break with any forward or back incidental pressure at the top of the standard. With a mechanical brace
it will work fine for the fix. Either aluminum or brass strip on front or back of it gives a lot of strength to that joint.
I've used both with a tapped hole into a standard and obviously corresponding hole in the support material.

 

[AgX]

. Either aluminum or brass strip on front or back of it gives a lot of strength to that joint.
I've used both with a tapped hole into a standard and obviously corresponding hole in the support material.

I did not advise a brace as it seems there is not much room for such. But pieces of thick brass cemented on both sides at 45° angle (perpendicular to the fracture line) on the bare metal will indeed add strenght to the joint.

It must be brass, aluminium would have to be as thick as the original part.

Screwing would not work either as the thread holes would weaken the aluminium frame and induce the next fracture.

 

[Alan Gales]

Working Wista 45d's and 45n's are cheap on eBay. There are also parts cameras and I know there used to be used Wista parts available on eBay also. It may be cheaper to just replace the part than having it repaired.

 

[John Koehrer]

I did not advise a brace as it seems there is not much room for such. But pieces of thick brass cemented on both sides at 45° angle (perpendicular to the fracture line) on the bare metal will indeed add strenght to the joint.

It must be brass, aluminium would have to be as thick as the original part.

Screwing would not work either as the thread holes would weaken the aluminium frame and induce the next fracture.

I'm not well educated but I don't believe so because the brace is just to prevent the joint from flexing at the glued joint. It's true that screw holes can weaken
the standard but with a 1.2-2mm screw I doubt there would be any considerable effect.
For clearance, either material is available in very thin sheets/ strips from ~.5mm.
"I can't prove it's true, I just know it is."

 

[Ray Morgenweck]

I think your best hope is disassembly and having the fractures aluminum welded and then refinish and reinstall. That is a Prime weak point and no glue will hold up. Possible a replacement part can be sourced from the maker?