Wista 45N Mystery Switch and Lubricant

I have recently acquired a 45N that I am trying to acclimate myself to. I have two questions that I would appreciate help with, if you know the answer:

1) What is the best lubricant for the rear swing? It is really stiff. I tried some silicon, but it only helped a little. It seems to be metal on metal, so I am wondering if I should use mechanical grease.

2) What is this switch for on the rotating spring back? I took the back off, and cannot see it affecting anything. You press it upwards, but nothing happens that I can see. I have looked at the manual from Butkus, and I can see this lever on the photos, but the manual never mentions its function:

hi ariston !

i've never lubricated a camera like this myself but when i hear of others doing it they usually talk about the good stuff > lithium grease, have you tried the good stuff yet ?
with regards to the lever i think you have it right, it is to rotate the back.
i know nothing about that camera but this guy does and if it is the same lever he was talking about ( around 1:54 ) it is what you use to unlock the rotation for the back

have fun with your new camera !
john

jnantz said:

hi ariston !

i've never lubricated a camera like this myself but when i hear of others doing it they usually talk about the good stuff > lithium grease, have you tried the good stuff yet ?
with regards to the lever i think you have it right, it is to rotate the back.
i know nothing about that camera but this guy does and if it is the same lever he was talking about ( around 1:54 ) it is what you use to unlock the rotation for the back

have fun with your new camera !
john

Click to expand...

Thanks John - I thought grease might be the ticket. I'm not sure that lever is for the rotating back. Mine rotates fine without it, and it just "seats" into place. I don't see a lock, or how that lever would lock it. They are old, though, so maybe mine is missing something.

There is a little tube at the bottom that has inside threads that took me awhile to figure out, too, but the manual had the answer: It is for some type of cable that automatically holds compatible shutters open for composition until you insert the film holder. I had never seen that before!

If the silcone grease only had little effect, you either did not get it to the right place or there is a severe mechanical problem that cannot be solved by lubrication at all.
My reluctance to use silicone-based lubricants is not because of any friction issue, but that they all make a mess, that I try to avoid.

I prefer Finish Line Teflon Grease to white lithium for cameras.
https://www.amazon.com/Finish-Line-...&keywords=teflon+grease&qid=1575751736&sr=8-3

The button with the "up" arrow should allow the panel that it is located on to swing up, it's probably a pop-up mini dark hood (at least that is what my Toyo 45 AR does with a similar catch).

If you mean the 2 long rectangular tabs (one on top and one on bottom) those should allow you to slide part of the back to remove it, to expose Graflok mounting slides. Removing this should help you identify where you are having friction problems, as it makes more of the mechanism visible.

shutterfinger said:

I prefer Finish Line Teflon Grease to white lithium for cameras.
https://www.amazon.com/Finish-Line-...&keywords=teflon+grease&qid=1575751736&sr=8-3

Click to expand...

Thank you, shutterfinger! I also have a speed graphic for which I would like to get the focal plane shutter working. Is this also appropriate for lubricating those tidbits (if I can even get to the rollers, etc.)?

voceumana said:

The button with the "up" arrow should allow the panel that it is located on to swing up, it's probably a pop-up mini dark hood (at least that is what my Toyo 45 AR does with a similar catch).

If you mean the 2 long rectangular tabs (one on top and one on bottom) those should allow you to slide part of the back to remove it, to expose Graflok mounting slides. Removing this should help you identify where you are having friction problems, as it makes more of the mechanism visible.

Click to expand...

I put a red arrow showing the lever I'm talking about. It's not the hood release or tabs for removing the back...

Ariston said:

Thank you, shutterfinger! I also have a speed graphic for which I would like to get the focal plane shutter working. Is this also appropriate for lubricating those tidbits (if I can even get to the rollers, etc.)?

Click to expand...

Graflex specified graphitted grease for the roller bushings so add some extra fine powdered graphite to a dab of the grease then apply it to the bushings.
https://graflex.org/manuals/45-Pacemaker-Speed-and-Crown-Graphic.pdf
http://www.southbristolviews.com/pics/Graphic/manual-pdf/servicemanual.pdf

The early Pacemaker Crown/Speed (1947-1948 or 1949) had the roller bushings under the leatherette covering but moved them back to accessible without removing the leatherette around 1949 or 1950.

shutterfinger said:

Graflex specified graphitted grease for the roller bushings so add some extra fine powdered graphite to a dab of the grease then apply it to the bushings.
https://graflex.org/manuals/45-Pacemaker-Speed-and-Crown-Graphic.pdf
http://www.southbristolviews.com/pics/Graphic/manual-pdf/servicemanual.pdf

The early Pacemaker Crown/Speed (1947-1948 or 1949) had the roller bushings under the leatherette covering but moved them back to accessible without removing the leatherette around 1949 or 1950.

Click to expand...

Thank you so much - again!