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Will Ilford Sheet Film ever get edge markings?

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Truzi

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Brushes allow electrical contact to the armature, to create a magnetic field via electromagnetic coils on the armature. You can't connect with wires, as the unit spins - under spring tension/force keep in contact with the correct spots on the armature. The magnetic field in the armature coils "interacts" (keeping it simple) with the stationary field coils around the armature; the armature spins.

The gears (with teeth) on the armature allow the motor to spin the flywheel.
 

MartinP

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I vaguely recall the Morris Minor fuel pump. Wasn't it a diaphragm design, operated by solenoid which occasionally could 'stick' at some point in it's movement? A judicious light tap with a nylon mallet could free it. The pump body was made of zinc (or a zinc alloy) so a large bang with a steel hammer might crack it . . . That car had an engine bay designed for a wide flat-four engine, but fitted with a slim inline-four pointed vertically instead. Lots of room to work on those machines :smile:
 
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StoneNYC

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I'm sorry guys, my step dad told me this 16 years ago (I was 15) maybe he didn't know or maybe he simplified it or maybe I forgot and re-invented it, who friggin cares, the point is you can knock it with a wrench and make it work again (temporarily).

I'm not a complete fool ya know, I've changed an entire engine out of my 2000 Saab 9-5 Sedan once, in my home garage, I know a few things about cars, and I've changed more than one starter, so I'm sorry I got the info wrong, I've never disassembled a starter before. My info was good enough to help, you could have just explained it better without totally being like WRONG you don't know ANYTHING.

I think sometimes things come across wrong on forums and it's not intentional on any one side, just things get "heard" wrong.

Anyway. Yea, PanFS.... :smile:
 

erikg

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Tone often gets lost on forums and email. Humor too. Keep dreaming that they're going to name a film after you though!
 
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StoneNYC

StoneNYC

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Tone often gets lost on forums and email. Humor too. Keep dreaming that they're going to name a film after you though!

:smile: if I can ever get enough money together I can study and learn from Ron how to coat my own film and then sell PanStone film :smile:

Or is StonePan more catchy? StonePan-X maybe? :smile:
 

Nige

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I have 2 starter motors stories...

Years ago we had a hand-me-down Datsun 1200 (Sunny for the yanks I think). '72 model or there abouts. It's starter motor used to stop and the 'bang with hammer' trick would work for a little while, then it needed to be removed and the bushes cleaned. This usually occured as I was going to work in the morning... After a bit of practice I used to be able to remove it (2 wires, 2 bolts), dissassemble and clean the amarture and brushes, reassemble, and reinstall in about 10mins still in my suit and tie!

My current 'toy' car has 4-1 exhaust header pipes that go past the starter (350 Chev) and cause it to heat up so that it won't start unless it's been sitting for an hour or 2 and has cooled down sufficiently. Pain in the bum, but as the car only comes out of the shed once a year I haven't fixed it yet! I bought and tried to fit a 'lightweight hi-torque' starter but when fitted, it actually sticks out further than the std one and you can't do up the bellhousing bolts tight due to the exhaust pipes in the way! One day I'll get around to replacing the pipes for some 4-2-1's fit the good starter and be happy!
 

erikg

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:smile: if I can ever get enough money together I can study and learn from Ron how to coat my own film and then sell PanStone film :smile:

Or is StonePan more catchy? StonePan-X maybe? :smile:

There you go. I think Stoner film would be a hit with a certain demographic.
 

Truzi

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My current 'toy' car has 4-1 exhaust header pipes that go past the starter (350 Chev) and cause it to heat up so that it won't start unless it's been sitting for an hour or 2 and has cooled down sufficiently.
Is this something a "remote solenoid" might fix? Or am I thinking Fords?
 

jp498

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I'm not a complete fool ya know, I've changed an entire engine out of my 2000 Saab 9-5 Sedan once, in my home garage, I know a few things about cars, and I've changed more than one starter, so I'm sorry I got the info wrong, I've never disassembled a starter before. My info was good enough to help, you could have just explained it better without totally being like WRONG you don't know ANYTHING.

Anyway. Yea, PanFS.... :smile:

I have a 2000 9-5 sedan. I think Lucas reared it's sooty horned head here too. It's got this orange relay-shaped light failure sensor I think Lucas made. I've had to take it apart and resolder it twice, as it has had cold solder joints or solder pads that weren't sturdy enough for the wiring. When this screws up, lights go out, just like something of British automotive legend.
 

graflexboy

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Ah, cameras, film, and SAABs. I have a 1984 900S (355,000 miles) and a 2006 9-3 Sport Sedan. I get false bulb failure notices every once in a while on the 9-3. Take out the bulb, check w/ohmmeter, tests good. Put bulb back in, it works. Go figure!
Slight, invisible corrosion might be the culprit.

I'm sorry if this way off topic.

I look forward to putting some Ilford in my 4x5 Graflex RB Series B...

Micah in NC

Sent from my IRULU-AL101 using Tapatalk 2
 
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StoneNYC

StoneNYC

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I have 2 starter motors stories...

Years ago we had a hand-me-down Datsun 1200 (Sunny for the yanks I think). '72 model or there abouts. It's starter motor used to stop and the 'bang with hammer' trick would work for a little while, then it needed to be removed and the bushes cleaned. This usually occured as I was going to work in the morning... After a bit of practice I used to be able to remove it (2 wires, 2 bolts), dissassemble and clean the amarture and brushes, reassemble, and reinstall in about 10mins still in my suit and tie!

My current 'toy' car has 4-1 exhaust header pipes that go past the starter (350 Chev) and cause it to heat up so that it won't start unless it's been sitting for an hour or 2 and has cooled down sufficiently. Pain in the bum, but as the car only comes out of the shed once a year I haven't fixed it yet! I bought and tried to fit a 'lightweight hi-torque' starter but when fitted, it actually sticks out further than the std one and you can't do up the bellhousing bolts tight due to the exhaust pipes in the way! One day I'll get around to replacing the pipes for some 4-2-1's fit the good starter and be happy!

Hah! My 1983 Datsun 280ZX, Red 2 seater w/ black custom leather interior, T-Top in the garage...

Sadly, the clutch is gone, I've been thinking of selling it since I hardly drive it, thought maybe I could get a new CPP3 and 4x5 expert drum and also pay off my credit card with the car sale, it's one of the few without body rot.
 
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StoneNYC

StoneNYC

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There you go. I think Stoner film would be a hit with a certain demographic.

Wouldn't be very ME, I've never smoked, not once, (green stuff I mean) I do occasionally have a cigar (once a year) but that's it.
 
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StoneNYC

StoneNYC

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Ah, cameras, film, and SAABs. I have a 1984 900S (355,000 miles) and a 2006 9-3 Sport Sedan. I get false bulb failure notices every once in a while on the 9-3. Take out the bulb, check w/ohmmeter, tests good. Put bulb back in, it works. Go figure!
Slight, invisible corrosion might be the culprit.

I'm sorry if this way off topic.

I look forward to putting some Ilford in my 4x5 Graflex RB Series B...

Micah in NC

Sent from my IRULU-AL101 using Tapatalk 2

My 3rd center break light goes in and out and I get that light bulb out issue when that happens.

My trunk light won't come on either and it makes me crazy because I can never see in there, and I can't trace the wires to any problem....
 

mr rusty

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I vaguely recall the Morris Minor fuel pump. Wasn't it a diaphragm design, operated by solenoid which occasionally could 'stick' at some point in it's movement? A judicious light tap with a nylon mallet could free it. The pump body was made of zinc (or a zinc alloy) so a large bang with a steel hammer might crack it . . . That car had an engine bay designed for a wide flat-four engine, but fitted with a slim inline-four pointed vertically instead. Lots of room to work on those machines

Spot on.

Apologies to all for being (partially) guilty for taking this thread way OT.
 

Steve Smith

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I have an Austin 1300 GT (British Leyland)

In working order? If so - Excellent!

As for edge markings, that would be a complicated thing to add as the film is nade in a large size then guillotined and stacked (with protective paper between? I can't remember). In order to edge mark it, it would need to be separated out, exposed and stacked again.

Really not worth the bother.


Steve.
 

Nige

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Is this something a "remote solenoid" might fix? Or am I thinking Fords?

no idea. I really should pull the current starter apart and see if a clean/brush adjustment makes it any better. I generally only take the car out once a year on New Years day so not something I'm desperate to fix :smile:
 
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StoneNYC

StoneNYC

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In working order? If so - Excellent!

As for edge markings, that would be a complicated thing to add as the film is nade in a large size then guillotined and stacked (with protective paper between? I can't remember). In order to edge mark it, it would need to be separated out, exposed and stacked again.

Really not worth the bother.


Steve.

Well I disagree with this part, kodak and Fuji seem to have no issues doing it, I'm sure it's imprinted at the same time it's notch codes are put in, and no, there's no paper separating the sheets on Fuji, Ilford, or Kodak.
 

Steve Smith

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No paper certainly makes it easier but I suspect that Ilford add the notches to a stack of film rather than individually.

If Ilford were to do it, it's just an extra stage which would translate to extra cost which would have to be paid for by us.


Steve.
 

Truzi

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no idea. I really should pull the current starter apart and see if a clean/brush adjustment makes it any better. I generally only take the car out once a year on New Years day so not something I'm desperate to fix :smile:

Only once a year? This better not be a classic you're neglecting.
 

Simon R Galley

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Firstly, It was me who took this very 'off topic' so I apologise.

In finishing sheet film, you cut the lengths off the the parent roll, so for 10 x 8 sheet you cut an 8" block x the parent roll length ( say 1,500 linear metres ), and other widths off the same parent rolls at the same time obviously, that block is then 'chopped' in a separate ( automated ) process into the 10" dimension ( and at the same time the notches are put in ). I would imagine ( but do not know for sure ) the edge signing would be done when its in the 8" x 1,500m state as an optical in line process from the big slitter. We have no such in line optical exposing device, we have never had one for sheet, nor would we believe we have any real customer value in adding one. So obviously if we did it, which we could, the cost would need to be passed on in a higher product cost...do not want to do that, do not think the customer needs it either.

Simon. ILFORD Photo / HARMAN technology Limited :



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