StoneNYC
Allowing Ads
notch codes arent that hard to figure out if need be .. im glad they dont have text on the film .. hate that ..
almost as much as the number wheel on my graphmatic ,, thats why the fiirst thing when i got one was unscew the holder and remove the wheel.
the notch codes are bad enough a number wheel in the negative is even worse
No thanks, and Stone you need to try printing.
I usually figure out the film code on used holders containing film, which happens all the time!
I don't think this would work, especially for snobs like me who still stretch their own canvases.
Here's a thought, Stone: If you buy some Ilford printing paper you get stickers with it. You can put those stickers on your negatives.
Do you still have that wheel? I need 2 more
Like shooting with film in 2014? Or, even more "old school," shooting large format in 2014?Old school thinking...
Nobody except the person that bought the film would see edge printing. Anyone wanting to promote the Ilford brand on Facebook, Instagram, etc. can easily paste in a logo as pseudo edge printing. I'll wager that HARMAN wouldn't object. In any case, what one sees on a monitor has no chance of conveying the superiority of silver halide, so those who print (silver or alternative processes) are the only ones who might be able to convert the unwashed. They should "win."...perpetual and relatively free advertising is never a waste of money...
Like shooting with film in 2014? Or, even more "old school," shooting large format in 2014?
Thank you. I take that as a high compliment. Most "new" things are fads that will fade rather quickly. Things that have stood the test of time are the few which didn't fade. Running a "tight ship" business the way HARMAN does, quite successfully, is one of those "old school" things.
Nobody except the person that bought the film would see edge printing. Anyone wanting to promote the Ilford brand on Facebook, Instagram, etc. can easily paste in a logo as pseudo edge printing. I'll wager that HARMAN wouldn't object. In any case, what one sees on a monitor has no chance of conveying the superiority of silver halide, so those who print (silver or alternative processes) are the only ones who might be able to convert the unwashed. They should "win."
Stone, if I understand correctly, you're asserting that Ilford should put edge markings on sheet film because it would be free advertising for them on instagram (and other visually oriented social networking places on the www)?
Is this accurate?
This implies that Kodak and Fuji are tons of free advertising....from all those folks who post full frame film scans on the (there was a url link here which no longer exists) wait...how many folks post full frame as a proportion of all folks posting film scans or print scans ? I see lots and lots of 35mm film scans of flickr...and almost none show the sprocket holes (even though, I guess that's cool). Point is, even if there were edge markings, it would not really make any significant difference from an advertising and marketing point of view. (besides, why not add tags ? See my flickr stream for examples)
Why is it our (the customers') responsibility to also run a marketing campaign for our film stock suppliers? Shouldn't Kodak and Ilford do their own marketing?
While I agree that film manufactures (all of them) are missing opportunities to market film and traditional materials to the next generation of film users, I really do not agree that we, the customers, should fill that role. And, I completely disagree with the idea that edge markings are an effective means of advertising.
Anyway the post is mute, the point is made, no markings is more important for "options" than it is for easy identification. But maybe instead of a notch code, they should cut pit a a capital I for ilford and then FP4+ falling off the edge, would be mostly clear, but easier than a bunch of cut out semi-circles.
Joey: If he doesn't like you, then this is all just a moo point.
Rachel: Huh. A moo point?
Joey: Yeah, it's like a cow's opinion, you know, it just doesn't matter. It's "moo".
Well as I said it's more about helping ilford and making a "cool" image for posting online then for identification, and I'm getting better at remembering the codes. But to a novice it's a deterrent, and forget that old mentality of "if you can't make it, don't bother" with that attitude not enough new blood will make it to film.
No problem for those who post online - just scan the negative and add the edge text with photosh**
They do that with digital all the time - adding sprocket holes in post processing.
Ha. He's got quite a few things to explain over beers.
Stone, someday...over beers, maybe you can explain this need/desire to identify the film used while viewing the image. Does it really matter, when looking at a print, if it was TMY or FP4+ in the camera?
Do you still have that [number exposing] wheel? I need 2 more
Alternative you can saw/mill proprietóry marks in the lower edge of the filmholder.
Less versatile than a whell, but the markings will off the image field.
stone. just make an embosser that says whatever it is you want it to say.
ypu can emboss your film to have your name/logo or your film type.
stationary stores make them ... or make an overlay and print or scan with it over/ under
your film.. if the manufacturers dont make the edge name
make your own .. a sharpie or pencil will work too ..
besides there are thousands of people who use fake edge markings and notchcodes on their scans
hate to say this but it tends to get trite/pathetic fast seeing "ilford fp4 and fake notchcodes on a color image ...
Yes I agree with the last part especially, that's why I want REAL ones haha
real unreal , same thing since the unreal has become real.
just make your own, and your own reality ...it just takes a little imagination
does it matter?Are we in the matrix or are we in inception?...
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