I think I trusted the guidance given by a time served expert who has been in business for over 1/4 century rather than a person who has suggested that cleaning would have been better by using highly inflammable lighter fluid than a cleaner which is not inflammable to the same extent with known cleaning properties. It is not a watch I cleaned, but a sprung wound clock with full size brass gears.
The use of lighter fluid to clean the mechanism is on the same level as using WD40 to lubricate the bearings!
Judging from the smell of the cleaner he was using in his workshop it is probably a similar cleaning agent. I also used appropriate watch makers oil which does not suffer from 'creep'. It has worked and no residual smell such as you would get from lighter fuel
It has worked and no residual smell such as you would get from lighter fuel
Maybe these products are formulated differently in different places. Here, I'd get residual smell from WD-40 and none whatsoever from lighter fluid.
Perhaps these days have much better cleaning fluid then I learnt in the past? I am not sure I just know using naphtha is the best and has been used for years until I can't get it , so I must switch to lighter fluid from Zippo.
Just buy regular Naphtha from Home Depot or Walmart.
The new lighter fluids use other chemicals instead of Naphtha and, IMO, that needs more time to establish its reliability over longer periods for len and camera cleaning.
I have had no issues with Naphtha, Hydrogen Peroxide (H²0²), Isopropyl or Ethanol Alcohols, Eclipse Lens Cleaner or tiny, steel needles, with acetone, in miniscule amounts, only on metal on metal things like loctite type glue, on little screws and filter rings no metal lens l threads, NEVER EVER ON OPTICS!
Get some Swiss watchmakers 'cat whiskers' oil delivery probes, with their special tips
)
in all four sizes and start with the smallest, if you cannot buy the full set at once, a tool which might need repeated 'dippings' in a drop of watch or very light camera oil, but will prevent you from drowning a screw head, filter thread, or mechanism in excess oil.
Cheers
Camera repair technicians across the globe are reading that and shaking their heads. What little respect I had for Phoblographer — and it was very little indeed — went out the window after reading that bit of junk.My Canon EOS R Needed a Repair. Here's How I Saved Money
The Canon EOS R is still, today, an awesome camera. And this is how I fixed it without it costing a lot of moeny.www.thephoblographer.com
Just in case anyone thought that this wasn't an issue any more, I see Phoblographer happily posting about using WD-40.
Good grief; upon reading I thought we skipped ahead to April first. From the author’s bio: “Since then, he's evolved as a publisher using AI ethically, coming up with ethical ways to bring in affiliate income, and preaching the word of diversity in the photo industry.”
Is this the author’s opinion or AI’s opinion or is it to promote “diversity of thought”? No matter, it emphasizes that the internet should not be taken literally sometimes.
For a communications major, he sure doesn't know how to write worth a damn. I can't tell if he needs an AI bot to clarify it, or if it is AI slop in the first place.Good grief; upon reading I thought we skipped ahead to April first. From the author’s bio: “Since then, he's evolved as a publisher using AI ethically, coming up with ethical ways to bring in affiliate income, and preaching the word of diversity in the photo industry.”
Is this the author’s opinion or AI’s opinion or is it to promote “diversity of thought”? No matter, it emphasizes that the internet should not be taken literally sometimes.
OK, my question. What would be a good lubricant to use (sparingly) on lens filter threads or hood threads (like on my Hasselblad 500mm) to prevent sticking or jamming?
I think WD40 is the best thing since sliced bread. But not for cameras.
A VERY thin layer of food grade silicon grease. So thin you almost don't know it is there.
Doesn't really need to be food grade, just very good grade. Plumbing silcone grease works just fine in this application. THIN...
I'm sure that's true but food grade is widely available online, I dunno about plumber's silicone.
Any hardware store, plumbing section. $3-5 for a small tube. Plus, the one I use is also NSF-approved food-safe (which I didn't know until I looked into the situation just now).
OK, my question. What would be a good lubricant to use (sparingly) on lens filter threads or hood threads (like on my Hasselblad 500mm) to prevent sticking or jamming?
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