I have talked to someone about doing this as I have an E-PM1. I might give this a try later on after I go through some film. The adapted photos I have seen are very unique.Have you tried adapting your auto 110 lenses to a modern camera? There's a youtube video out there that shows them adapted to a micro 4/3 camera and the video rendering from one of the lenses is actually quite gorgeous.
Never thought of that. You just balance it on one side of the 35 mm holder? Does the other side sag? DO you have to somehow mask the other side to prevent the light from passing around the negative?So far my best results have been with a Minolta 450E and the Lomo tiger. The 110 SLR was overexposing which I need to look into. The below was from my latest roll (cassette?). Used a Yankee developing tank which I find very fiddly and scanned on an Epson V550 sliding the negative in the 35mm holder on one side only. Not fun, but it works.
I have a few 110 cameras including a Minolta SLR. I've been picking them up randomly when they show up at flea markets, Goodwill, etc. My first camera was 110 and I have some rather blurry photographs from the 1984 motocross races at Mount Morris, PA that I found recently. There's more somewhere at my father's house.
So far my best results have been with a Minolta 450E and the Lomo tiger. The 110 SLR was overexposing which I need to look into. The below was from my latest roll (cassette?). Used a Yankee developing tank which I find very fiddly and scanned on an Epson V550 sliding the negative in the 35mm holder on one side only. Not fun, but it works.
Never thought of that. You just balance it on one side of the 35 mm holder? Does the other side sag? DO you have to somehow mask the other side to prevent the light from passing around the negative?
Those are the 'focus' lenses. The '0' is for infinity and the other two are for close-up. With no extra lens the focus is around 8 feet.Nice collection. With regards to the Minolta 16. As I said above, my old model is missing the two externally mounted square lenses. Are those mandatory? In other words, if you don't have the one in front of the shutter will the picture be out of focus of are they optional, like UV filter, diopter, etc. I know the one in front of the viewfinder doesn't affect image quality but similarly, it that just clear glass/plastic or is a lens to make the viewfinder in focus?
yes, the same. you just have to use single perf film with the larger format, and make sure you have the perfs on the correct side.Question about Minolta 16 film - it is said that the early models used film that produces 10x14 negative. The later model produces 12x17 negatives. Are the film cassettes for these the same, the camera just produces a slightly larger image?
The results I got from Orca were similar. Also thinking that reloading with some other b&w film might be a better option.Here are a few images I took, home developed and recently scanned. Taken with Pentax Auto 110. Nothing earth shattering but I'm pretty pleased considering it's 110. The flower was taken with the close up filter (diopter). The B&W was Lomo Orca. I think the color was a long expired roll of Kodak Gold 200 that I cut down.
Sorry if these are not sized right for posting.
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Instamatic 60... has not shown up here, only the german Kodaks.
Have a look at the various Agfa Minox-style type 110 cameras too, amongst them are very advanced models.
In general: the range of type 110 camera goes from film-plus-lens to SLR with several lenses.
I have shot a couple of rolls of 110 Lomography Tiger film with a Rollei A110 and a Minolta underwater camera. I then developed them using 110 metal reels. After some initial learning curve figuring out how to load the reels, this is actually really easy to do.
I must admit I just crack open the 110 film cartridge and throw it away along with the backing paper. I don't trust that Lomography backing paper anyway.
The results were mostly good (see below), but I do have quite a few negatives with a couple of black spots in various places. On the positive, these are bright white spots with a red halo. This only happens when I use the camera outside in bright light. It looks to me as if these are tiny pinholes in the backing paper that let some light hit the negative. Has anybody else seen this?
I have a couple of MEC 16 sb. Probably the best 16mm still camera ever, no biggie. ;-).
Anyone know where to source film? Looking a bit around it’s mostly reversal film and “joke film” ala Lomo.
Is eBay really the only source?
I’m not really up to E6, and for such a small format I’d really like good, slow, non expired film.
Should anyone have a filter set (or just a yellow filter) for an 16 sb they’d be willing to part with for non-crazy money I’d be interested.
Sorry, forgot to specify that I’d strongly prefer film from EU as the import taxes takes a lot of the fun out of it.The last 16mm film I bought (and it was a while ago) was single perf 16mm b/w negative film. I see B&H still carries it.
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