While we're on the subject of OMs

[benjiboy]

Canon EF Long Exposures

Andy - first off - very nice, moody night shots! I like them quite a lot (for what its worth).

Secondly - you devil!!! But thanks for the attempt ... at reverse psychology that is!!! Hehehehehe....

Thirdly (is tha even a word?) - The only German glass I own is attached to my Volkswagen - and even that I can't really afford...

And yes - MLU is wonderful, one of the reasons I bought the hidden gem among the Canon FD bodies - the EF - was the MLU. And the 30 second shutter speed built in (can you guess who else does a lot of night time shooting?)

But no - for now I am saving for a new MF SLR and maybe getting a Yashica TLR on the way. I love 35mm - but am fairly well off in the equpment dept there - so I am forcing myself to remain true to the cause I have set for myself. Yes. That's it! My mind's made up! (closes his eyes not to look at the OM pros any more and backs out of thread...)

If you are doing many long exposures on your Canon EF Gnashings remember to carry a spare battery, because Like the Canon A1 I use, the shutter uses an electro- magnate powered by the battery to hold the shutter open, so with long exposures up to 30seconds, or time exposures on B uses a lot of battery power considering most normal shots are taken at 1/125, 1/250, 1/500. I used to do a lot of night photography with my A1 and found that a couple of time exposures of a minuet or more the battery was flat, which was why I bought an FTb that has a mechanical shutter. I don't know if modern electronic shutters are still like this, but the EF is a very fine camera, built like a brick s**t house I'm sure it will give you some great reults.

 

[Andy K]

I'll second that Bentley. Those night shots I posted were three and a half minute exposures at f/16 using Delta 100. I usually use HP5 for long exposure night shots, but this was high summer and I only had the Delta with me.
Thats why I love the OM-1, the battery only powers the meter, everything else is mechanical, so even if the battery dies I still have a perfectly functional camera.

 

[Woolliscroft]

The only downside to the OM1s, is that they were designed for a mercury battery - I have purchased one of the adapters for each, so silver oxide cells work.

This really is not the problem people think it is. Just put in modern 1.5v batteries and set the exposure bias or film speed control to over expose by two thirds of a stop. End of problem.

David.

 

[benjiboy]

The problem is

This really is not the problem people think it is. Just put in modern 1.5v batteries and set the exposure bias or film speed control to over expose by two thirds of a stop. End of problem.

David.

That could work to some degree David, the problem I understand is that the Canon EF is powered by two 1.35 volt Mercury Oxide PX 625 batteries , 1.5 volt silver oxide ones don't produce the power in the same way, looking at a graph comparing the power output responses they are very different,and would probably produce inconsistent exposures, I researched this recently when the battery of my Canon FTb Packed up. I found the best alternative is to use the PX 625 Zinc Air Wein Cells they don't last as long as the old Mercury Cells, but I have been using them for several months and they seem O.K

 

[Woolliscroft]

The OMs also use two cells. I agree the response curve is not quite straight using 1.5v batteries, but I calibrated my cameras against a modern light meter and it was as close as makes no material difference. Certainly I can use transparency film in total confidence. I guess, though, you should use what you are happy with.

David.

 

[Andy K]

The OMs also use two cells.

Not all of them, my OM-1n MD uses a single PX 625.

 

[BruceN]

You guys are not even getting started.
Bill Barber

Oh, I think I'm doing allright. If I keep on buying your stuff as you downsize, Bill, I'm going to need the second closet and you can cut back to one.

Bruce

 

[Earl Dunbar]

Hi, Bill, how are things? I was out in the canoe with the OM-1 and the 35SP today on a pond nearby. I was using the 100mm/f2.8 you sent me on the OM, Elite Chrome and Provia 100F.

See, give up the OM list, I actually take photos! ;-) Seriously, your prompting to "get out there" was a motivator.

Earl

 

[MattKing]

Now that's something I could use, that adapter. I'm
not very sold on zinc-air. Just where doDead Link Removed I send the
money?

Have they a two cell version? I've a Sekonic
L-228 also in need. Dan

Dan:

I purchased mine from an E-bay retailer who isn't aroung any more. I believe you can get them from this company now:

Dead Link Removed

They are expensive, but on the other hand the batteries they use are relatively inexpensive, and if you are switching back and forth between bodies, you don't have to worry about different film speeds for different camera bodies.

If you "Google" PX13 adapter you will see other sources as well as instructions about constructing your own adapter

 

[nsurit]

Oh, I think I'm doing allright. If I keep on buying your stuff as you downsize, Bill, I'm going to need the second closet and you can cut back to one.

Bruce

It works that way in theory, however . . .

I think there is a difference between "cutting back" and "down sizing." "Down sizing" is something that happens to you at work. "Cutting back" is you lying to yourself about slowing down your buying habits. I still need the other half of the closet and she isn't giving in. {8^) Bill Barber

 

[nsurit]

Hi, Bill, how are things? I was out in the canoe with the OM-1 and the 35SP today on a pond nearby. I was using the 100mm/f2.8 you sent me on the OM, Elite Chrome and Provia 100F.

See, give up the OM list, I actually take photos! ;-) Seriously, your prompting to "get out there" was a motivator.

Earl

Earl, thank you for the acknowledgement. I'd love to see you post some of your lake pictures. I was doing a few from the bank last weekend with my OM 2S, 21mm f2 and green filter. Tri-X. Bill Barber

 

[benjiboy]

If you tried it.

The OMs also use two cells. I agree the response curve is not quite straight using 1.5v batteries, but I calibrated my cameras against a modern light meter and it was as close as makes no material difference. Certainly I can use transparency film in total confidence. I guess, though, you should use what you are happy with.

David.

If you tried it, and it works David, fine, I'll bear it in mind if I get stuck, because as I say the Zinc Air Cells are supposed to have a short life, and I don't want to buy an adaptor.

 

[Andy K]

Bear in mind the adapters are a once only purchase which can be used indefinitely with cheap and easily available SR/LR44 button cells. I saw a sheet of 40 of these cells for sale in my local pound shop (a shop where every item is £1 or less). As soon as I have the spare, I'll get an adapter.

 

[Jon Goodman]

I make my own adapters, and they cost me nothing. I use the 1.4 v hearing aid batteries in them, and those cost me less than $1 each. To make the adapter, simply file the top part of an old 625 alkaline cell off and separate the two pieces that make up the battery. Clean out the insides, and then use a dull nail to make 3 or 4 "dents" from the outside leading in (so the battery can breathe). You'll have an adapter that will last forever.
Jon

 

[Andy K]

Jon, the adapters I'm talking about have built in voltage reducing circuitry to take the 1.5v of the button cell down to the 1.35v required by the camera's meter. Thats why they cost.

 

[Jon Goodman]

Hi, Andy. Here is a website showing how to make voltage reduced adapters, also. You can see how it is done....
http://olympus.dementia.org/Hardware/PDFs/batt-adapt-US.pdf

 

[Earl Dunbar]

Bill: I will post once the processing and scanning is done. Some will be from the Olympus Odyssey project. In addition to the canoe outing on Buck Pond yesterday, I found some interesting farm field sites, but the light was pretty "blah", so I'm not sure how those shots will render.

Earl

 

[Andy K]

Jon, my mistake, I thought you figured an adapter was purely for the size difference!

Thanks for the link to the pdf! Very handy!


Andy.

 

[Jon Goodman]

You're welcome, Andy. I think there is some very good data in that file...it certainly put the battery issue into perspective for me.
Jon

 

[nsurit]

You're welcome, Andy. I think there is some very good data in that file...it certainly put the battery issue into perspective for me.
Jon

The adapters are available from John at Camtech (www.zuiko.com). He can also do repairs and has parts, etc. He is one of two repair people many Olympus OM people use to service their OMs. The other is Clint at Photoshere (www.olyfix.com) and I don't think he has the adapters. Both of these guys are Olympus trained OM repair folks. Both do good work. Bill Barber

 

[John Hermanson]

4T and Ti have titanium top and bottom covers and the latest low-battery-drain circuit. Some original OM-4s have very high drain which can run batteries down in a few weeks, even when you don't use the camera. If you are looking at used OM-4s for purchase, this test will tell you if the body has been service by Olympus and the body has one of the low-drain 4T boards. Turn the battery check on. IF the beep turns off automatically in approx 30 seconds, that is a body with the new board. I'd avoid old OM-4s. Olympus no longer services the original 4, and buying a 4T circuit (approx. $250) and doing it yourself is very impractical.

 

[John Hermanson]

I don't want to hijack reinis' thread.

I'm curious why the OM-4Ts are so expensive. I saw a "minty" one going for $825. Is that how much minty OM-4Ts go for these days?

4T and Ti have titanium top and bottom covers and the latest low-battery-drain circuit. Some original OM-4s have very high drain which can run batteries down in a few weeks, even when you don't use the camera. If you are looking at used OM-4s for purchase, this test will tell you if the body has been service by Olympus and the body has one of the low-drain 4T boards. Turn the battery check on. IF the beep turns off automatically in approx 30 seconds, that is a body with the new board. I'd avoid old OM-4s. Olympus no longer services the original 4, and buying a 4T circuit (approx. $250) and doing it yourself is very impractical.

 

[benjiboy]

Good Advice Indeed

4T and Ti have titanium top and bottom covers and the latest low-battery-drain circuit. Some original OM-4s have very high drain which can run batteries down in a few weeks, even when you don't use the camera. If you are looking at used OM-4s for purchase, this test will tell you if the body has been service by Olympus and the body has one of the low-drain 4T boards. Turn the battery check on. IF the beep turns off automatically in approx 30 seconds, that is a body with the new board. I'd avoid old OM-4s. Olympus no longer services the original 4, and buying a 4T circuit (approx. $250) and doing it yourself is very impractical.

To anyone thinking about buying one this is very good advice indeed, I worked in a camera store when the OM4 first came out and they used to eat batteries, for every six we sold we had about five customers bringing them back complaining they had got only one or two films through them before the batteries were flat. If as John says this problem has been resolved in the later versions, it is a excellent camera with a very versatile exposure system I would be happy to own.

 

[laz]

'Bout time I let youz guys know I'm out here reading this thread in the agony of restraint! I had serious OM-1 lust back when it was new. But alas I had committed $$ to Nikon and, well you all know the story.

Now I have absolutly no need for another 35mm camera, but like that now "classic" car you lusted after when you were young, now that I can afford one I am soooooooooo tempted!

Is there a 12 step program for camera junkies?

-Bob

 

[Andy K]

Is there a 12 step program for camera junkies?

-Bob

Yes. Drive to your nearest classic camera dealer, walk a dozen steps to his door clutching a wad of cash in your eager mit...


Hope that helped.