Which Vintage 35mm do you recommend?

[mooseontheloose]

Well, here's a vote for the Nikon FE - you can find good ones for under $100, they work with every Nikon lens ever made (except G lenses, since they don't have the aperture ring, but that would be true of all mechanical cameras), the self-timer engages mirror lock-up (I often use it when shooting handheld at slower speeds), and the batteries last for ages (I change them once every two years or so). I've never had a problem relying on the meter, including shooting both slides or infrared.

 

[Sirius Glass]

The Minolta Rokkor lenses are very good. Look for the MC and MD lenses. The MD lenses work better with the later models since they inform the light meter about the minimum lens aperture location.

 

[crumpet8]

The Minolta Rokkor lenses are very good. Look for the MC and MD lenses. The MD lenses work better with the later models since they inform the light meter about the minimum lens aperture location.

Here you are again Sirius! Seems we have some of the same cameras Minolta and Hasselblad atleast.

 

[Theo Sulphate]

A lot of us have Hasselblads and Minoltas ...

The Pentax Spotmatic is a simpler camera than the Minolta SRT-101:

-The SRT-101 shows speeds in the finder; the Spotmatic does not.
-The SRT-101 meters wide open and uses needle & circle indicators; the Spotmatic meters after being stopped down and uses a single needle.
-The SRT-101 has mirror lock-up (most models); the Spotmatic does not.
-The SRT-101 has a bayonet mount and conveys maximum aperture to the metering system; the Spotmatic has a screw-mount with no lens information conveyed (except Spotmatic F with SMC lenses? I'm not sure.).

All that said, the Spotmatic (and other Pentaxes from the 1950's to 1970's) are solid reliable cameras with excellent lenses.

 

[Christiaan Phleger]

Minoltas are a solid choice; still insane prices for the glass and pretty easy to find. I've just added a few Minolta lenses and bodies to my rotation of peanuts and some gear was just handed to me. Nikon is a good choice if you want to more easily incorporate into an existing dig system. Still a lot of lens bargains in Nikon.

 

[nsurit]

Alex, I use Olympus OM cameras and one of my most used lenses is the 85mm f2. A high numbered 50mm f1.4 and a 35mm or 28mm f2.8 should make you a happy camper. I'd probably go with the 24mm f2.8, however we all have our preferences. I like and use the OM-2S, however their circuits sometimes die and are not fixable (which is why I have 5 of them, figuring that should be a lifetime supply.) I own all the single digit OM models and think most people could be happy with the system. Bill Barber

 

[RobC]

I would have said a Contax but you seem to have ruled them out. An old 139 or even a 167MT which has a bit of automation or an RTSII if you want fully manual (with mirror lock up).

 

[Chan Tran]

The OP said under $300 for the body a lot of cameras would fit. I would recommend Nikon as the lenses are plenty and good. Not cheap but not too expensive either.
I would recommend an F3 or F2 (although the F2 with Cds meter may developed problem by now), the ones with silicon photocell may exceed the $300 budget.

 

[KidA]

Your criteria for a camera is quite similar to mine. I've been using various OMs and I'm very happy with the design of these cameras. The only one I don't have is the OM3 because it's so expensive. Their ultimate bodies (for functionality) are either the OM3 or OM4 which are basically the same without the need for batteries in the OM3 - and it's the only OM without a self timer! Something I use a lot. At times when a second body is needed I usually carry around with me either the infallible OM1n or the OM2n. All my OMs are built really well, and although I've read a few places that the OM4 is the most durable (which can very well be the case) the OM2 and OM1 feel better to me. The OM4 and OM2sp feel more plasticy. Small bodies that all carry very similar dimension and weight, fantastic lenses, and reasonably priced. This system will not let you down.

 

[GRHazelton]

Hi
That isn't vintage.
That is just old.

If you want vintage, go for an Exacta or a Asahiflex.

Just remember that the Asahiflex uses a 37mm lens mount, lenses are likely to be extremely rare. It is also waist level finder and not terribly bright. This from using my Father's example. Fine camera, within its limits.

 

[Photo-gear]

AVOID CANON SERIE A AND T: THEY GET OLD VERY BADLY.

 

[Sean Mac]

I use a beautiful OM system for colour negative film.

B+W I use a FM2n. Just a 50F1.4/85F1.8 lens setup.

A FM2n is nearly flawless in my experience. It is an OM1 refined and designed by Nikon. Lots of good easy to find glass is available.

Nice Zuiko glass is kind of pricey and hard to find by comparison.

 

[Richard S. (rich815)]

Nikon, Contax or Olympus OM.

 

[John51]

Oh no! A camera that I bought new and was my pride and joy (OM1) is now vintage.

If a light meter is too much to lug around, surely a Nikon is out of the question? Them tings be heavy.

OM1n bodies are cheap now. A non abused one plus a service, including the meter being adjusted for modern batteries should come to less than $300. Late 50mm f1.14 lenses. serial number above 1 million, go for £85 to £100 here. The 135mm isn't rated that highly but the 80mm seems to be. Something I haven't played with yet is the easy change focusing screen. About a dozen varieties and can be changed with a pair of tweezers.

The OM4 has spotmetering but what happens when the electronics fail?

 

[Roger Cole]

If you like the Nikon FMs you might also consider the Pentax MX. I have one and love it.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk and 100% recycled electrons - because I care.

 

[Jeff Bradford]

If you're looking for heavy metal,
Nikon F, F2, FM
Pentax K2, KX, MX
Both systems offer lenses from low to high.

 

[sagai]

I would go for an Exa 1a with a tessar on it.
Costs more or less none and gives you the freedom to retract if you find this analogue thing is not really for you.

 

[leicarfcam]

One quintiscential 35mm SLR is the Leica SL with 50 Summicron.

Love this camera as well as the SL2 but both are a pain to service....

Others: Nikon F, F2, F3; Canon F1n, EF, Ftb; Olympus OM1n

My picks on this list are the Nikon F and F2..

 

[Paul Howell]

I neglected to add Canon EOS 1, under $300, the AF 50mm and 28mm 2.8 is are reasonable, even a 85 is within reason. Pro level build.

 

[Sirius Glass]

The Minolta Rokkor lenses are very good. Look for the MC and MD lenses. The MD lenses work better with the later models since they inform the light meter about the minimum lens aperture location.

Here you are again Sirius! Seems we have some of the same cameras Minolta and Hasselblad atleast.

That shows that you have good tastes to go along with your bright and sharp brains and clever wit.

 

[Chan Tran]

Oh no! A camera that I bought new and was my pride and joy (OM1) is now vintage.

If a light meter is too much to lug around, surely a Nikon is out of the question? Them tings be heavy.



The OM4 has spotmetering but what happens when the electronics fail?

I find the meter is too much to lug around not because of its weight but because of its bulk and being a separate piece. I never find any camera too heavy to carry only too big.

If the electronics fail very likely the OM4 won't function at all. Using a camera without a meter is really no big deal. When I use any of the cameras that require mercury battery I use them without the battery and thus no meter.

 

[AlexBC]

Thank you all again for your continuous suggestions. I really meant no insult by defining pre-1990 as "vintage." I am just barely pre-1990 myself, so don't listen to the ramblings of a snot-nosed kid !

To clarify, I have been tempted to buy a very small plastic/light-weight Sekonic light meter such as an L-208 which will do incident/reflective with a hotshot mount for convenience. I've just been using my L-558 spot meter for so long, I think I'll really miss having that option despite the occasional inaccuracy. Coming to film from being raised on digital, I'm always suspicious of averaging meters or matrix meters because I shoot so much sunset urban photos of downtown buildings and their associated shadows with intense contrast between the lights and darks. I trust specific films to hold highlights (Ektar), but I worry that an averaging meter will not be as cavalier with the decision making and my end results will be flat highlights and muddy shadows. I can be a miracle worker on Photoshop, but I left digital to get away from the manipulation, so I don't want to overhaul every photo taken in high contrast scenes.

I've been looking at the Contax cameras, specifically the 167MT. I am surprised that the eBay prices for the lenses are so low. I'd written them off because I believed that they would be outside of my price range, but they are certainly very reasonable. That said, I'm still leaning towards Nikon for ease of access reasons. eBay will have to be my main resource like it or not, and Nikkor lenses are everywhere. I just realized that my brother actually has an old Nikon F with a couple of lenses buried in his closet from his college days, so I may have to look at using that while I figure out whether I want to go newer, older, heavier, or lighter.

 

[Sirius Glass]

Some through the lens averaging meters are quite accurate. They have to be correct within half an f/stop for slide film to be properly exposes. Therefore any of the Canon, Minolta or Nikon through the lens averaging or matrixing meter systems will be more than good enough for almost all shooting. They and others will have trouble with white on white and black on black exposures and for those an incident light meter rather than an reflective light meter is needed.

 

[Pioneer]

Pentax LX - Still the Discriminating Pro's Choice

All of these cameras are quite good and will do what you want.

But if you really are interested in using one of the best then find a serviced Pentax LX and enjoy shooting a light, professional camera with a very, very accurate meter. It may turn out to be a tad high for your stated budget but you certainly won't mind once you have used one for awhile.

EDIT - Of course it was still being sold in 2000 so it may not quite be vintage enough for you.

 

[flavio81]

You can't go wrong with...

Canon: FP, FT, FTb, EF, F-1, F-1N
Nikon: F, F2, Nikkormats (all)
Minolta: practically all minoltas (!)
Pentax: all Spotmatics, KX, K2, maybe the K1000, MX, LX

Yashica: Check out the FR-1

Praktica: There are some good Praktica cameras, you'll have to dig more information about them.

Exakta VX or Varex: The original system SLR.