Which timer/power supply would you recommend for Omega D-2?

[Luke Munnell]

Curious as to what some of you D-2+ printers are using on your machines. Just setting up a new one and looking for advice

 

[Bill Burk]

For the original condenser head with PH-212 bulb I have a voltage regulator. For the Diffusion light source I use a Zone VI stabilizer. Either way I use with a Time-o-Lite (Omega Audible Repeating Timer).

 

[ic-racer]

I think these are the only two power supplies available. The non-regulated power supply can run with any timer, but the Omega Precision Timer sits on top and is a good choice.

 

[mgb74]

I don't think the d2 variations with a condenser head used a power supply. Just plug into 110v outlet through timer. Though I'd expect a voltage regulator would be useful if your line voltage varies or if you want to be super precise.

 

[AgX]

Why would one need a certain timer dependant on model of enlarger? (Issues of electrical load aside.)

 

[Paul Howell]

Although not really needed as my household power is really stable even when the AC comes on, I use a Unicolor voltage stabilizer which drops the power down to around 110 and an Heathkit timer. I also have a Beselser power supply from a 45 color head which I use if I'm working with a 2 enlarger setup.

 

[Patrick Robert James]

I have a few timers and they all work well. Three digital Gralabs (two 645 and one 900) and a Kearsarge which is nice but rare these days.

I prefer digital timers, and timers that have more than one channel. I really like timers that can be programmed to do a sequence. The Gralab 900 is like that, but it is pretty complicated at first. There are others too of course. If you want to go all out, get one of the fancy ones from England. Forgot the name off the top of my head of course. Pricey, but nice. You might want to think about a timer with a built in meter. Makes printing a piece of cake. The English ones do that. Still can't remember the name of them...

And don't forget the footswitch. Gotta have a footswitch unless you are an octopus.

Hope that helps you some.

 

[logan2z]

I have a few timers and they all work well. Three digital Gralabs (two 645 and one 900) and a Kearsarge which is nice but rare these days.

I prefer digital timers, and timers that have more than one channel. I really like timers that can be programmed to do a sequence. The Gralab 900 is like that, but it is pretty complicated at first. There are others too of course. If you want to go all out, get one of the fancy ones from England. Forgot the name off the top of my head of course. Pricey, but nice. You might want to think about a timer with a built in meter. Makes printing a piece of cake. The English ones do that. Still can't remember the name of them...

And don't forget the footswitch. Gotta have a footswitch unless you are an octopus.

Hope that helps you some.

I think you're referring to RH Designs. I love my Analyzer Pro.

 

[Bill Burk]

And don't forget the footswitch. Gotta have a footswitch unless you are an octopus.

I bet if you were an octopus you would be a really good printer. That one big eye. All the better to see in the dark. And think of all the complicated dodges and burns you could do.

Plus when you go to develop the print you won’t need tongs.

 

[Luke Munnell]

Thanks everyone! Great info here. I was hoping to get a feel for which heads/power supplies/timers everyone was using and this is great. Because I'm itching to get started messing around I'm going to set this up with its native D-type incandescent head, but I do want to switch to a reliable and more modern cold head to stick with for the long haul.

 

[Paul Howell]

Unless you want to lower contrast and have less issues with dust I would consider a LED blub, I have 3 bulbs ranging form 800 to 100 Lumens that I use in my D3, the D3 is the same as a D2 with auto focus rails, they work really well. I know that many have doubts concerning how off the shelf LEDs work with VC paper, start up lag time and afterglow, I don't have any issues at all. I use the 1600 when working with negatives I shot in the 60s, at the time I shot high contrast for reproduction in newspapers. At the moment I have only the D3 set up, when I use my old Federal with diffusion set up or Metopa I also use LED lights without issues. I also have an ancient flying saucer Omega cold head that I use with 4X5, it needs the electric shutter as the florescent bulbs have both start up lag and afterglow, the LED work so much better. .