Which small Epson printer for b&w prints and normal printing?

eli griggs

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I need a small, quality printer for household and archival prints up to 11x14 inches at the largest, plus negative scaning.

Any suggestions, please.
 

gbroadbridge

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You want a small printer and scanner with good quality?

There ain't no such thing.

At the least you are looking for a separate printer and scanner, and if you want decent quality you are just not going to get it from a printer with anything less than 6 inks

And archival means pigment inks.
 
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eli griggs

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Pigmented inks to be sure, dyes are for temporary prints and as a painter, working in oils, wc, acrylic, etc, i am very aware of their limitations.


As to all in ones, there are commercial level and practical level for folks in most all makers and imm looking for something in the less than $500 price level.

I'm sure im not alone in demanding a manufacturing giant like Epson meet my needs without raiding my wallet of a month's salary, and I can come down from 11x14 digital inches to standard printer paper size of about 8x10, not for a museum wall or collection but a family or art league wall, where $1500 prints aren't called for.

Quality prints should be affordable and not so expensive that their very existence is the end all, be all, main monetary or technology value.
 
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I need a small, quality printer for household and archival prints up to 11x14 inches at the largest, plus negative scaning.

Any suggestions, please.

Any thoughts on using pigment ink on an affordable Ecotank printer? InkOwl has a pigment ink conversion kit for Epson Ecotank six ink printers. Has anyone here done such a conversion and have some experiences to share?
 

gary mulder

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I doubt whether the difference between pigment and dyes is so clear-cut. Maybe it's more marketing than based on hard facts.
 
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gbroadbridge

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Any thoughts on using pigment ink on an affordable Ecotank printer? InkOwl has a pigment ink conversion kit for Epson Ecotank six ink printers. Has anyone here done such a conversion and have some experiences to share?

I can't comment on a conversion, but the InkOwl inks are extremely good replacements for OEM inks.
I've been using them for 6 years.
 

koraks

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plus negative scaning.
I'm not aware of any multi-function printer that will also scan negatives. Popular Epsons like the ET8550 do have a scanner, but only for reflective media.

I'd drop that requirement and split the search into a printer and a separate scanner.

I doubt whether the difference between pigment and dyes is so clear-cut. Maybe it's more marketing than based on hard facts.
Look e.g. here: https://www.aardenburg-imaging.com/light-fade-test-results/
Here's the first 200 entries plotted against each other, separated in dye (blue) and pigment (orange dots):

Light-fastness (as expected MLux hours of display lifetime) on vertical axis; the spread on the horizontal axis doesn't mean anything. For the light-fastness, I took the average of the range Aardenburg gives, and when he says ">140" etc. I just left out the ">". This explains why some of the pigment points are clumped together on a horizontal line at 140, 180 and 200. The small cluster of "chromogenic" is RA4 paper processed in a Frontier minilab; I assume this is the lower-grade Crystal Archive and not DPII (it cannot be Maxima since that doesn't go through minilabs).

It shows that while there are some really bad pigments, there are no good dyes in terms of light-fastness. The bad pigments turn out to be virtually all 3rd party ink sets at the lower end of the market. It's quite possible that these perform badly because they are pigment inks with dyes added to shift the hue or to increase chroma; these dye components fade faster than the pigment.
The relatively well-performing dyes (on par with the lower end of the non-shabby pigment range) are the ones Fuji use in their Frontier inkjet minilabs. Those are relatively light-fast.
The data moreover show that the paper really makes a lot of difference.

So no hard & fast rules, but there's a clear pattern. Another very clear pattern in the data is that inkjet manufacturers do not invest in dye-based inks. So apparently, despite the supposed lack of hard facts and the higher chroma of dyes, they don't think it's a good idea to put their money in dyes. I think that says something.
 

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gary mulder

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What is a dye-based ink ?
 

runswithsizzers

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I would not choose an all-in-one unless space saving was more important than anything else, including quality and economy.

The all-in-one might appear to be the more economical choice in the short run, but... In my experience, moderately priced scanners last a lot longer and have far fewer problems than moderately priced ink jet printers. So when the printer craps out, you will need to replace both, even though the scanner part is probably still working.

But if there are no all-in-one units that can scan negatives, then my point is moot for the OP.
 

Chan Tran

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He said B&W. Do you need 6 inks for B&W?
 

koraks

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Pigments - inorganic compounds (minerals, finely ground), insoluble
To the best of my knowledge, the distinction between pigments and dyes in a (inkjet) printing context ultimately consists of the difference in water solubility. The distinction between mineral and organic molecules AFAIK applies to other domains than printing inks; e.g. artist's paints etc.

Technically speaking, the pigments in inkjet ink are not finely ground minerals. Typical pigments used in inkjet are for instance PB15.3 for cyan (phtalocyanine) and PR122 for magenta (quinacridone); yellows are more variable, but current options include e.g. benzimidazolone (PY180). All of these are organic molecules. Mineral pigments are by and large not suitable; they either have too low chroma, there are toxicity/environmental problems, they don't perform well in a dispersion or may have other drawbacks that bar them from application in an inkjet ink.

And archival means pigment inks.
Certainly, although we need to realize that the statement is not reversible: archival inkjet requires pigments, but the use of a pigment ink set doesn't automatically mean the print will be archival. Indeed, the use of any old pigment ink set does not automatically mean the prints will be more stable than some dye-based inkjet prints. As indicated in my earlier post and as you can see in e.g. the Aardenburg tests, this is especially true for low-end pigment inks. I also use the InkOwl pigments, but I have doubts about how they compare to the real Epson Ultrachrome K3 inks that my printer was made for, in particular in terms of light-fastness. The fact that the inks are marketed as "compatible" doesn't say much about the stability of the colorants in the final print.

He said B&W. Do you need 6 inks for B&W?
For decent B&W you need 3 channels at least, preferably with one or two additional channels for toning. It's in principle possible to take a 4-channel inkjet printer and hack it into a monochrome-only printer by dedicating all channels to monochrome and building profiles for it. It's certainly possible and not too difficult with e.g. QTR, but it requires some effort in selecting a suitable printer and ink set. The good news is that archival monochrome is a little easier than archival color due to the nature of the pigments used and especially the stability of carbon black, which is the backbone (but not necessarily sole colorant) of all black and grey inkjet ink.

Quality prints should be affordable and not so expensive that their very existence is the end all, be all, main monetary or technology value.
You might try and write some angry letters to Epson, HP and Canon and perhaps your congressman, but I doubt it'll make much difference in how the manufacturers manage their product roadmaps or business models.

Economically speaking, your best bet is probably to look for a decent second-hand printer that can be used with 3rd party bulk inks, and spend some time figuring out which of these bulk inks has a decent chance of (to you) acceptable stability. Then make sure to use a paper that optimizes this stability as there is a significant influence of the paper on the archival stability of the print. Moreover, you could consider applying an overcoat and/or use UV-blocking glass when framing to optimize the lifespan of the print, and of course limit exposure to UV and aerial pollution to begin with

Of course, the budget of <$500 is a bit of a challenge. Given that an InkOwl set for a mid-range printer runs some $220, you might get lucky if you manage to grab for $100 an old Epson that someone thinks is broken because of a clogged channel which you could perhaps then get going again by flushing it extensively. When all's said and done you may still have $100 for some paper. It may take some patience and a good dose of luck, but it's possible.

You'd still have to solve the question of the scanner.
 

Don_ih

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Quality prints should be affordable and not so expensive that their very existence is the end all, be all, main monetary or technology value.

It's actually really hard to beat the economy of a silver-gelatin enlargement. Even with a printer, you need to buy good paper. And how much ink would you use making 50 11x14s?

Anyway, you can hunt for used scanners. Lots of people have bout V600 scanners to scan old negatives and then gave them away or sold them for not much.
 

gary mulder

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My pigment printer has red and yellow ink. So far so good. But almost everyone knows that cars in the colors red and yellow do not exactly stay in color due to UV. Would those printer manufacturers have colorfast red and yellow pigments? And multi-million industry like the automotive industry not? I really don't believe what is promised about color fastness.
 
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I can't comment on a conversion, but the InkOwl inks are extremely good replacements for OEM inks.
I've been using them for 6 years.

Thanks. Have you used these InkOwl pigment inks also for making digital negatives for alt processes? Do they have sufficient UV blocking power?
 

koraks

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I think there's plenty of room for skepticism. But there's also a need for nuance.

Firstly, cars often spend their entire service life outside, depending on climate this can involve a considerable part of the time in full sunlight. Photos virtually never witness such conditions.

Secondly, pigment research isn't static; it's in full motion. I think we're all familiar with the red Mazda's etc. from the 1980s-1990s that we occasionally (rarely) on the roads today and that have faded to a gentle shade of pink that's inconsistent with the temperament of their youthful drivers. There may be better hope for the 2020s production red Teslas that are painted with other pigments, with different dispersion technology in a different paint vehicle.

Finally, there's the matter of how archival is archival. How fast is light? Well, at least 'c' is an absolute. But the question of what constitutes lightfast has a much more flexible answer.
 

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The world is just not fair....Have you checked the price of enlarging paper ??
 

gary mulder

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I'm sure that the inkjet prints that hang in my living room for more than a year have faded in color. Compared to a new print from the same printer of the same file. I don't mind. But extra money for the promise of archival will not come out of my pocket.
 

MTGseattle

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I've been pondering questions like this myself of late.
1. Do I really need a printer when I have a functioning darkroom? The darkroom effectively shuts me off from my house, cats and wife while a printer and sitting at the computer has me "included" in the household. The darkroom requires about 30 min of setup, and 30min to 1 hour of cleanup (depending upon the resulting prints being keepers or not)
I have hundreds of sheets of photographic paper on hand. I have maybe 50 sheets of quality inkjet paper on hand.
2. Do I fuss about a warranty? If buying used, this is certainly a moot point.
3. There have been a number of 1 and 2 generation old Epson and Canon "pro" printers for sale lately, but I have balked at ink costs each and every time. If I am getting a formerly $800 dollar printer for $200 it would seem like the ink costs are a wash, but psychologically they are not.
4. The only favorable thing in this consideration process is that there have never been to my knowledge any HP printers worth considering in the photography space. I've had such bad HP luck, if they were the only option, I would pretend they didn't exist and go on about my life.

Would a budget minded, non-archival model (one of the eco tank or reservoir models) at least produce good enough quality and color fidelity to help decide if a given image was worth a bigger/better professional print? This applies more to color prints which is outside of what the OP had asked.
 

gary mulder

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Inkjet is a completely different workflow than darkroom printing. It is not comparable one to one. Inkjet printing has (almost) nothing to do with craft. Your photographs will be naked and only stand up on content. There are no happy accidents that make your day.
 

jeffreyg

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I don’t know how many alternate process prints you make but with the cost of a quality printer and inks at about $50 per cartridge and Pictorico you might consider x-ray duplicating film. 100 sheets of 8x10 can go for about $90.
I have an Epson P900 which uses cartridges at approximately $50 and takes 10 cartridges plus a separate scanner. For regular copy printing we use my wife’s all in one. The ink for that is also crazy.
I have used the duplicating film for pt/pd printing and it’s excellent. It’s a reversal film and can be used with your enlarger like making a print.
I also use Pictorico and get excellent results.
With the film recommendation you wouldn’t have to buy extra equipment if you have a darkroom and enlarger.
 

koraks

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I'm sure that the inkjet prints that hang in my living room for more than a year have faded in color. Compared to a new print from the same printer of the same file. I don't mind.

Yeah, I can relate - and I wouldn't even know unless I'd print the same thing and put it side by side to systematically compare both. I'd sooner spend my days making sudokus, however.

4. The only favorable thing in this consideration process is that there have never been to my knowledge any HP printers worth considering in the photography space.
They used to have/still have a foothold in the wide format printing game.

with the cost of a quality printer and inks at about $50 per cartridge and Pictorico you might consider x-ray duplicating film.
I think the x-ray film does quite poorly when you hold it against a computer monitor to try and make a negative from a digital file.
 

gary mulder

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Yeah, I can relate - and I wouldn't even know unless I'd print the same thing and put it side by side to systematically compare both. I'd sooner spend my days making sudokus, however.
I just think it's a strange concept that you can print the same photo a year later. And sometimes someone asks if they can have a copy of a print that hangs on my wall. After that, there may still be time for sudokus
 

Chan Tran

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I need a small, quality printer for household and archival prints up to 11x14 inches at the largest, plus negative scaning.

Any suggestions, please.

Do you shoot B&W with digital or film?
If you shoot with film then simply buy a decent B&W laser printer which is good for general printing and print your film in the darkroom.
 
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