Which Rolleiflex to buy?

[Rob MacKillop]

I used to have a Mamiya C330S, and regret selling it. So I was thinking of buying another, but then thought of upping the game with a Rollei. Looking around, there are SO MANY models, and I have no idea of their relative value, and prices vary widely and wildly. Any advice?

 

[Dan Daniel]

Planar/Xenotar, or Tessar/Xenar? First big hurdle.

Budget- Tessar/Xenar, working will be $200- 500. Planar/Xenotar- working $450- 1200 plus.

Condition- the critical issue. Best bet- find reliable seller, not trolling around Ebay hoping to stumble into a working model. Sellers here, rangefinderforum, both generally safe sellers.

 

[campy51]

If you want a 2.8 lens I would recommend the 2.8C because it's great and usually cheaper than the D,E or F, but go with one in the best condition. The 3.5's are also nice but I only know the 3.5F which is as much as the 2.8.

 

[Rob MacKillop]

Thanks. A Planar 2.8C seems the way to go.

 

[Luckless]

Before committing to searching for a Rolleiflex: Any idea how much you really made use the C330's bellows?

- I'm not sure if the Rolleiflexs have a longer focus throw, but one of the most frustrating things I've had with my Rolliecord has been 'running out of focus knob'... I don't normally go to stupidly long extensions on my C330, but I apparently use it enough to allow myself to feel slightly frustrated when trying to use the 'cord.

Of course, if you only ever did moderate focus range usage then this will be a total non-issue.

But I will say, I really wish I could magically pack all the functionality of my C330 into the size and weight of my Rolleicord. Stupid time and space and all that jazz.

 

[NB23]

3.5F hits the sweet spot on so many levels.

 

[guangong]

I was very lucky. A well heeled customer at Willoughbys (remember Willoughbys) would buy a new camera, use it for a couple weeks and then trade in, taking a terrific hit. My friend worked at the store and I was able to buy a basically new 2.8 F at a bargain price. This included all the Rollei accessories the customer bought. Such things happen only once in a lifetime.
As for buying a Rolleiflex today, good ones are not cheap. I agree that it’s wise to buy from a reputable dealer. Again, a C, E or F would be a good choice with either 3.5 or 2.8 lens. No need to pay a premium for a 120/220 camera since 220 is no longer available. Even when available, I think I only used 220 once. Any of these Rolleiflex are extremely robust and stand alone among TLR cameras. Be patient...there are still mint cameras to be acquired.

 

[Kodachromeguy]

Rob, for a broad overview of models, try checking the Rollei Club:

https://www.rolleiclub.com/thedarkroom/?page_id=3288

The advice above is spot on: condition is all important. Good luck searching.

 

[StepheKoontz]

Depends on the use. I have a 2.8C with the zeiss planar which is great for portraits, but IMHO my 3.5E with the xenotar is slightly sharper for landscape type stuff. I opted to get meterless models mainly because that just look better and I use a hand held meter anyway. Plan on paying for a CLA unless the seller can document it was done in the last 10 years or so.

 

[Alan9940]

All great suggestions above, but IMO one of the best 'flex bargains out there is the MX-EVS. Depends on what and how you plan to shoot, but when stopped down a bit I'd be willing to bet that most viewers couldn't tell the difference between this camera and the more expensive models.

 

[dpurdy]

The question of Planar or Xenotar is pointless, they are equally great. The question of 75mm v 80mm seems insignificant but in my experience it is a big difference. I was always frustrated that the 75mm lens did not see as I saw the subject whereas the 80mm matches my vision exactly.... but that is personal to me. The Xenor or Tessar lenses are really nearly just as good as the Planar or Xenotar but the cameras are either older or not as robust or convenient to use. To finally get the Rolleis I love I had to buy and sell about 15 of them in 3.5 or 2.8. I ended up with a good ole 2.8F Xenotar that hasn't failed me.

 

[Deleted member 88956]

3.5F hits the sweet spot on so many levels.

Fully agree, probably best compromise in upper Rolleiflex chain.

 

[Deleted member 88956]

I used to have a Mamiya C330S, and regret selling it. So I was thinking of buying another, but then thought of upping the game with a Rollei. Looking around, there are SO MANY models, and I have no idea of their relative value, and prices vary widely and wildly. Any advice?

Perhaps not upping the game from C330, but Rollei is a different camera. Of course to consider your move as upping it, you must go with upper end of Rolleiflex TLR chain, not just any that say so on the label.

 

[etn]

Let me insert a praise for later GX/FX models here. Sure, they are expensive, sometimes VERY expensive. They are easily dismissed as simplified / lower manufacturing cost alternatives to previous models, with lower manufacturing quality (which is not true), plastic parts (also not true) and similar BS.

Possibly the only cost saving measure of those models is that the auto loading feature has been replaced by the simpler, non-auto film loading of the Rolleiflex T. That's a blessing if you ask me: no more film or frames wasted due to misalignment of the sensor roll, different backing paper thickness, or similar reasons.

Apart from that, the GX/FX have a very accurate, coupled meter and a bright, modern high-quality focusing screen. The lens is a multi-coated 2.8 Planar - as good as it gets - which takes the same Bay III accessories as earlier 2.8 Rolleis. As said above, condition is key. Because GX/FX are more recent and were never used by press photographers of earlier times, the condition is likely to be much better than most 2.8 C/D/E/F out there.

Only issue, their price. If you have the funds, I can only recommend those models.

 

[Ian Grant]

Here in the UK Rolleiflex cameras have risen in value over the past few years, that's based on actual sale prices on ebay (completed) and various shops online &brick.

You need to have an idea how much you want to spend, a rough budget and see what's available in that price range. I was lucky to find a good Rolleiflex Automat MX with an f3.5 Opton Tessar at a Flea market around 4 years ago for £70, I'd bought from the seller before and he'd bought it new plus it had been serviced. While it's an excellent camera with a good sharp lens it lacks some of the sophistication of later models, I also have a near mint 3.5 E2 with a Xenotar

I'm used to the Automat now and tend use it more alongside my LF cameras than the 3.5 E2, as it's less valuable (cost less than a 1/10th the value). With all these older TLR's it helps to know if they've been serviced I was given the 3.5E many years ago because it didn't work(dried out lubricants) despite having been used to shoot less than a dozen films from new, and a service 12 years ago was £100.

If a Rolleiflex was going to be one of my main cameras I'd go for a 3.5E or faster 2.8E or F versions with ei her lens - Planar or Xenotar - both superb. You need to try the slow shutter speeds 1 second and 1/2 etc these need to be very smooth sounding, no drag or sticking, that would indicate a need for a service. I'd prefer to see and try a Rolleiflex before buying.

A good ceiling price for a Rolleiflex 2.8F in VGC from a highly reputable UK (Yorkshire) shop (& ebay seller) is a penny short of £1,100, that's a seller I and others here buy from with full confidence and his prices are always fair. My 3.5E2 would sell for around £750 but they can be found for less depending on the condition. Bottom end you could get a budget Rolleiflex T with a 3.5 Tessar or Xenar for £200.

Ian

 

[btaylor]

You might try handling a 3.5 and 2.8 before you buy. I have both, and for me the extra weight of the 2.8 makes the camera a bit front heavy and I just don’t like using it as much for that reason. When I finally got my “forever” Rollei I got the 3.5f. Actually I accidentally bought two- I put in a bid and that I didn’t expect it to go through. One is mint, the other a bit worn. Not wanting to ding the perfect one it’s the worn in one I use the most of course.

 

[EdSawyer]

I'd recommend a 3.5F or 2.8F planar. They will hold value the most, are the best of the line up (short of the 2.8F Platin) and IMNSHO are better than the modern GX/FX versions.

 

[ic-racer]

Assuming you want the 80mm lens.

If you want the newest camera CDS built-in meter and don't care about auto-start film sensing, go with the 2.8 GX.

If you don't mind the selenium cell meter and want auto-start film sensing go with the last generation 2.8F or 3.5F (this is what I have)

If you don't mind a very old camera and don't care about a built-in meter go with the 2.8E or 3.5E

 

[NB23]

Honestly, auto sensing really annoys me. You’re never really sure if the film is correctly loaded.

 

[Paul Howell]

While in the Air Force I used a Rolli with 80 3.5 lens on occassion, very nice camera, but I think the 2.8 gives you an extra stop which is nice. Saying that as a user of Yashica 124 and a D if it were me I would really give a Mamiya C220 with 80mm 2.8 some consideration. For the price of Rollie with Planar you can a 220 with a wide or short tele.

 

[Kodachromeguy]

Honestly, auto sensing really annoys me. You’re never really sure if the film is correctly loaded.

I have the opposite experience. On my three Rolleiflexes over the years, the auto sensing device was flawless with Kodak and Fuji 120 films. The only problems I have read about were on cameras that needed an overhaul or with film that had thick tape or backing paper.

 

[macfred]

I'd recommend a 3.5F or 2.8F planar. They will hold value the most, are the best of the line up (short of the 2.8F Platin) and IMNSHO are better than the modern GX/FX versions.

I got my 3.5F Planar (with working meter) for 800,- Euros - I invested in a CLA (150,- by Hans Klinkhamer in the Netherlands, who's a retired Rollei technican) and added a new focusing screen. Never regret !

 

[baachitraka]

A working one...

 

[Deleted member 88956]

A working one...

which btw, there are plenty of

 

[Ian Grant]

which btw, there are plenty of

Helps to know the history, whether it's been serviced. It's not about age and price rather than condition and functionality.

Ian