Which Olympus OM to get?

[RH Designs]

It seems that most votes here are for the OM 1 or OM 2. Anyone have any comments or opinions on the OM4?

I have an OM-4 and two OM-4tis. Brilliant cameras - the metering system is a work of genius. So much so we stole the idea for the Analyser . I've had no trouble with the 4 and one of the 4tis - the other 4ti was bought with an intermittent fault which I've so far been unable to fix completely. The viewfinder on the 2SP, 3 and 4 is slightly smaller and dimmer than the 1s and 2s but in practice this makes little difference. I have a 1n as well, lovely little camera but I rarely use it as I much prefer the 4's metering.

 

[Lee L]

It seems that most votes here are for the OM 1 or OM 2. Anyone have any comments or opinions on the OM4?

Part of the reason you don't see the OM-3 mentioned a lot is because few bought them. They were around US$600 or more new when discontinued the first time, and sold slowly at that high price. When the used prices immediately went to US$1300 on being discontinued, Olympus put them back into production at a price closer to the used body prices than US$600. Not a lot of people wanted to pay that much for a non-automatic, non-AF body compared to other Olys or other brands, but the camera obviously met a niche market's needs.

So if you're counting popularity (which plays a large part in any request for input like this thread), the OM-3 is at a distinct disadvantage because of price and the number of units sold, as is the OM-4(ti) to a lesser degree.

Lee

 

[Woolliscroft]

It seems that most votes here are for the OM 1 or OM 2. Anyone have any comments or opinions on the OM4?

The 4 is a bit of a battery eater, a problem solved in the Ti version, which is also tougher and an all round a work of genius.

David.

 

[Paul.A]

The OM4 is a brilliant little camera. Built like a tank, small, and satisfying to use. I had mine from new and it had the battery drain issue, I eventually sent it to Olympus UK and they upgraded some of the electronics to those found in the later OM4 Ti. The exposure system is superb. The metering system makes the zone system easy, and for the accurate exposure of tranny film its a must. The flash system is great, I got some of the TTL cables and connectors and it made off camera flash so simple. Then there is the long exposure times, up to 4 minutes. I could go on and on about the camera, I think its a masterpiece of camera design.

Lens wise I've just got 2 Zuiko lenses left, the 50mm F1.4 and the 35-105 f3.5. Both are fantastic.

I wish Olympus were still a major player in the camera business. For my work I switched over to the Canon EOS system for professional support and easily available hire equipment.

 

[RH Designs]

The 4 is a bit of a battery eater, a problem solved in the Ti version, which is also tougher and an all round a work of genius.

David.

My 4 has never eaten batteries, I think it was a QC issue rather than design. I did have a 2SP that ate them, but even then they're cheap enough and probably last longer than those in an auto-everything motor driven wonder!

 

[snegron]

Is the OM4 made mostly of metal or is it made mostly of plastic panels like newer SLR's? I know that the OM4Ti was constructed with top and bottom plates of titanium, but I am curious about the "regular" OM4.

 

[jmcd]

I have two OM-1n cameras, and I they are lovely to use, with an excellent viewfinder. As far as the 50mm 1.8, I think it makes an excellent image. I sent both bodies to K&S camera repair. Ken did complete CLA, including replacing the foam near the prism, and voltage conversion for a total of around $90 each. Well worth the investment, I think. He used to be a camera repair person for Olympus.

K&S Camera Repair
364 W. Shaw Ave
Fresno , CA 93704
559 222 3686

 

[DanielOB]

Snegron
Titanium is so strong that no tool can shape it. Even if can it will wear out so fast. Titanium can only be machined on SOME grinding machines. This was Nikons problem a long ago. So when you see Titanium it can means many things, but not free form shaping. Mostly it means "good bokeh".

Daniel OB
www.Leica-R.com

 

[RH Designs]

Is the OM4 made mostly of metal or is it made mostly of plastic panels like newer SLR's? I know that the OM4Ti was constructed with top and bottom plates of titanium, but I am curious about the "regular" OM4.

The OM-4 is all metal like the OM-4ti, the latter uses a stronger titanium alloy.

 

[Ed Sukach]

Snegron
Titanium is so strong that no tool can shape it. Even if can it will wear out so fast. Titanium can only be machined on SOME grinding machines. This was Nikons problem a long ago. So when you see Titanium it can means many things, but not free form shaping. Mostly it means "good bokeh".

I won't comment about "bokeh", but titanium - most of the alloys we've encountered - certainly COULD be machined successfully. Carbide tooling and judicious use of speeds and feeds was ~ essential... but that, in itself is no different than machining any other material.

One thing surprised us ... titanium chips are FLAMMABLE!! All the precautions used when machining magnesium must be followed faithfully!!

 

[nsurit]

If you are looking for a mechanical camera the OM 1 or 1n is an excellent starting point and perhaps a finishing point. Great solid camera. Have Camtech do a CLA and you will be happy for many years. He has done many of the 25+ OM bodies which reside in my stash closet and I've always been happy with the cameras and with his work. The OM 3 or 3T offers a different metering system and will cost 5 or more times what you will spend on the OM 1. Any of the other OM single digit cameras will give you good service, however it won't be in manual mode with a dead battery. Don't shy away from the 4 as many have the new circuit of the 4T. To test to see which circuit a camera has, turn the battery test on and if it stops beeping after about 30 seconds, it has the new circuit. If the circuit goes bad in the OM 2S, 3 or 4 you will need to jsut buy another body as the circuits are essentially unavailable and even if you could find one it would most likely be cheaper to buy another body and have it CLA by Camtech than to have the old one repared. The Zuiko glass is wonderful and there are also some third party lenses that are very good. Specifically, I've had very good luck with the Tamron SP 17mm, 24-48mm, 90mm, 60-300mm, 80-200mm, 300mm f2.8 and 400mm f4 lenses. There are also several very nice lenses in the Tokina AT-X line. Bill Barber

 

[dancqu]

.
One thing surprised us ... titanium chips are FLAMMABLE!!
All the precautions used when machining magnesium must
be followed faithfully!!

Sure MIG and TIG. Spent some time in the welding shop. Dan

 

[haziz]

Praise for the OM 2SP

I have OM 1, OM 1n, OM 2N, and an OM 2SP. I also bought a 4ti with several lenses that is still at the repair shop (I bought it from a store so they are covering that). The one I usually grab when going out is the OM 2SP it's metering seems right on with E6 and the spot metering function is easy to use if you ever need it. The OM 2SP is reputed to have a battery consumption issue but mine may have been definitively fixed by a previous owner. The same set of batteries have been going strong in it for the last 9-10 months. I did not pay more than $50 for any of the OM1 and OM2 ($110 for the OM2SP). I am, unfortunately, a very good customer of the camera store I frequent and therefore payed little for the OM4ti. It was bundled with several lenses and Macro gear however.

Sincerely,

Hany.

 

[nsurit]

The OM 2S is my "go to" 35mm camera, however when the circuit quits (and they do sometimes) there is no fix other than buying another camera body. I trust the 6 or 7 currently in the closet will be a lifetime supply. Going back to the original question about mechanical single digit OMs, one good OM 1 or 1n, with an occasional CLA by John Hermanson at www.zuiko.com could be a lifetime supply. I have about a dozen and a half of the OM 1/1n bodies as I use them in a beginners photo class I teach and I want all the students to use a camera without "Mr. Automatic" as they learn basic photographic principles. They are a perfect match for this purpose or for the photographer who already understands how a camera works. In my last posting I mentioned some third party glass I use. For those who haven't used Zuiko lenses, which is most of what I use, you will be very pleased with the high quality and variety of Zuiko lenses available. Bill Barber

 

[Simon E]

The OM-1n and -2n are lovely to use and reliable, but are getting seriously long in the tooth. I'd budget for a CLA for any secondhand OM camera, especially these (in the UK you get the silver oxide battery upgrade done free). These two have the biggest, brightest finders of all OM models and remain most faithful to Maitani's original vision.

OM-3 tends to be overpriced secondhand because there aren't many knocking about. Most would be well-used, it shares the multi-spot of the -4 but no automation. It has no self timer or MLU either.

OM-2S (aka OM-2SP) - you either love it or hate it. They are all-electronic and can be a bit unreliable. There have been no replacement circuits available for a long time, so once it stops working it's a paperweight.

The OM-4 had a reputation for eating SR44 batteries but not all were plagued by this issue. Some were retrofitted with a 4Ti circuit upgrade which cured it. The OM-4Ti is definitely the top of the tree and still a fantastic camera now. I would have thought the benefit of titanium is irrelevant for all but the toughest environments. OM-3/4 models do have built-in dioptric correction.

Unless you really want built-in spot metering I'd plumb for an OM-1n every time. They are the best made of them all and will outlast the rest with ease.

 

[wally]

What's the point? $40! The Zinc AIR batteries are THE mercury
replacements. Wein Zinc AIR to fit a lot of fine older photo
and other gear. Dan

The point is that the zinc-air batteries have a short lifetime once you 'pull the pin' and start using them, and they're more expensive than the silver S-76 batteries.

 

[John Hermanson]

I'd go with a high serial number OM-1 or any 1N. The 1N has all the factory improvements that ever went into the original OM-1. When properly done, a 1/1N converted to the 1.55V silver oxide battery is linear across all light levels. 1.55V alkaline battery (625A, 625U) should not be used as it's voltage starts to drop as soon as you use it. Please see my website for further info on OM service (which I have been doing for 30+ years.) John, www.zuiko.com

 

[Allan Swindles]

This site is well worth checking out.

http://www.mir.com.my/rb/photography/hardwares/messageboard/olympusom1n2/index.php

 

[Andy K]

The OM Zuiko lenses are generally excellent and usually very cheap these days.

That depends on which lens it is

http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/Olympus-OM-Sy...rkparms=72:12|39:1|65:12&_trksid=p3286.c0.m14


and I wouldn't mind this to compliment my OM-1n MD

http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/Olympus-OM-3-...rkparms=72:12|39:1|65:12&_trksid=p3286.c0.m14


I had my OM-1 CLA'd about 18 months ago by these people. Had it adapted for modern button cells at the same time at no extra cost.

 

[Seabird]

I own a 1 (MD but non-n) and a 4 (non-Ti). The 1 was purchased about 30yrs ago and the 4 about 20 yrs ago. Both were purchased second hand and both are still going strong (touch wood). These are great cameras!

I use a battery adapter for the 1 to allow use of 1.5v batteries and would recommend this over use of zinc-air batteries on account of difficulty finding the latter in Australia.

I have never had a "problem" with the 4 eating batteries - unless the shutter button has been partially depressed in the camera bag, and that's not the camera's fault (well, perhaps a design issue).

If you want the spot metering capability then go for a 4 or 4Ti - I use my 4 with a zuiko 135mm lens as a meter when out shooting 4x5 with my Technika. In my view, this facility alone justifies the premium over the 1. But if you just want a simple, indestructible camera then go for the 1 or 1n.

While the 3 seems to be the jobbie everyone lusts after, the lack of mirror lockup may lessen my enthusiasm. Its true that the 4 doesn't have mirror lockup either, but this can be achieved by using a cable release and the self timer - the mirror lifts when the timer starts counting, letting vibrations subside before the shutter fires. I dont know whether the 3 has this capability.

While probably considered blasphemous by some, in my view, the OM-1 ranks alongside M-series Leicas, Rollieflex TLRs and Linhof Technikas as the being among the greatest cameras ever made. Get yourself a good one. You'll never regret it.

 

[hansutrecht]

Just finished another ISO 400 film with my OM1 MD - still equiped with my last Hg 1,35V battery... Whenever this battery is gone I will switch over to handheld metering (as done with my other older cameras). Although it is mentioned above that replacement with Zinc Air batteries is a non-issue, my experience is that the moment you really have to rely on the correct reading, they're out of juice...

Well, to be honest, i will install the Zinc Air and calibrate it regularly with a Gossen.

To get back to the original question, OM1 (MD) is nice, OM3 is too expensive, OM2SP I sold because of the battery drain, OM4 is a metering wonder, but I like my OM2n best: simple OM1-like operation, reliable electronics, really good flash support.

One last hting (it should be in another forum) I sold my Zuike 65-200mm because the lack of definition and general dullness. Is this reflected by other users?
(I love my 3,6/35-70 though!).

Hans.

 

[lgrabun]

To get back to the original question, OM1 (MD) is nice, OM3 is too expensive, OM2SP I sold because of the battery drain, OM4 is a metering wonder, but I like my OM2n best: simple OM1-like operation, reliable electronics, really good flash support.

I have exactly the same feeling about OMs. OM-2n is simple, reliable, light and with no heavy electronic equipment which is susceptible to breakdowns. I could sell my red snake-like leatherette but will never ged rid of 2n. Cute little camera it is!