Which Nikon lenses should I get first?

[fotch]

If gear is more important to you than photos, get several lens. If photos are more important, start with the 50mm and after using it for several months, then decide what lens to get next. To many photographers are gear junkies, collecting more & more stuff, which is fine if that is your hobby, collecting gear. If photos are your goal, then use what you have. You will eventually add to the system, in a more orderly path of what you need for the type of photos you are taking.

You may still end up with a lot of gear but will have more memories that are important. JMHO

 

[James-EG]

Fotch, I've decided to go with just the 50mm f/1.8 AIS for now so hopefully I'm not too much or a gear junkie! The pictures I take will be very important to me. Maybe if I find either the 28mm f/3.5 or 105mm f/2.5 I will get one of them too but I'm not worried about them for now. Like a few people have now said I will just start with a decent 50mm and then figure out what other focal lengths I need.

I didn't really word the post very well where I said I'd never used primes. I have, just either not much or not in the focal range I'm looking for now, I used a 50mm and 28mm on my Pentax for a bit but not much, only a couple of rolls of film so I hadn't really thought about if I needed other focal lengths. The only prime I've used a lot is a 400mm for my Canon DSLR that I use for wildlife, while I've never felt like I needed a different focal length for that kind of photography that's not what I'll be doing with the Nikon, so it's not much help.

Overall for now I'll concentrate on getting the 50mm f/1.8, if I find either a 28mm f/3.5 or 105mm f/2.5 for a very good price then I'll try and get one and that'll be great, but now I'll keep it simple and just go with the 50. I appreciate the help that you've all given me, thanks very much!

 

[lxdude]

You should look at the 50mm f1.8 autofocus lens. It works well on manual cameras. A new one could be had for about 110 UKP recently, and good used examples crop up on eBay regularly. You would definitely get a good one for 80-90 UKP. If you are interested, look for the AF-D versions. Earlier AF models had a poor design of focus ring. If you're looking at them on eBay, the 'D' designation follows the maximum aperture value printed on the lens barrel. People sometimes list them as AF-D, when they are actually the older version. I have to say that, for versatility, I would opt for a mid-range zoom to take on holiday. You could get a Nikon 28-105 AF-D for the same money as the 50mm. Again, it works well manually, although there are also several AiS zooms in the mid range that are very cheap at the moment.
Alex

I don't see how the AF would be of benefit over the older 50's. I have one with the later model focus ring, and it is much less smooth than the manual lenses. It has no feel, and the stiction is downright annoying. Fact is, Nikon AF lenses do not focus as well manually as Nikon manual focus lenses. Why get one when the manual focus lenses are abundant and you have a manual focus camera?

 

[narsuitus]

"...hope to buy a 28mm f/2.8, 50mm f/1.4, 105mm f/2.5 and 180mm f/2.8 all AIS."

"Overall I would just like to know which two of the four lenses you think I would be using the most..."

"Which Nikon lenses should I get first?"

"I know I'm the only person who can really decide this but I would like the opinions of people who use these lenses..."


I own and use the following Nikon prime lenses that are similar to the ones you mention:

50mm f/1.4
50mm f/1.8 Series E
55mm f/3.5 micro
35mm f/1.4
35mm f/2
28mm f/2.8
85mm f/1.8
105mm f/2.5
105mm f/2.8 micro
180mm f/2.8

The 35mm f/2 was the first one I purchased. I did not get the 50mm first because I knew from previous experience with my first SLR (a Miranda Sensorex) that a 35mm would be a better "standard" lens for me than the 50mm.

The 85mm f/1.8 was the second lens I purchased and the 180mm was the third. Even after I added more lenses to my inventory, these three lenses were the ones I used most often.

The fourth lens I added was a 55mm macro because I did a lot of pathological close-ups at the time.

The next lens I added was a 20mm f/3.5 because I occasionally found myself in a situation when 35mm was not wide enough.

Fifteen years after I purchased my first lens, I bought a 28mm and a 50mm from the estate of a newspaper photographer.

Please keep in mind that this is how I accumulated lenses to meet my shooting style. Your path will probably be different.

https://flic.kr/p/bFzfjZ

 

[Erik Petersson]

After having bought many lenses, I have ended up using 50mm 1.8 series e 95% of the time . It is good enough and it is very light and small. Makes my F3 fit in my shoulder bag. The AIS has a even better reputation of course, you can't go wrong there.

Use this set up for several months, ideally with only one film. It will teach you to see better. And that is the key to good photos.

 

[Ap507b]

Maybe think of the 200mm F4 instead of the 180mm F2.8. Lens is slower yes, but it is lighter in weight, a lot cheaper to buy & optically very nice.

 

[Alex Muir]

I don't see how the AF would be of benefit over the older 50's. I have one with the later model focus ring, and it is much less smooth than the manual lenses. It has no feel, and the stiction is downright annoying. Fact is, Nikon AF lenses do not focus as well manually as Nikon manual focus lenses. Why get one when the manual focus lenses are abundant and you have a manual focus camera?

I only make the point that the OP could get a new AF 50 for a similar price as a used AiS. It works perfectly well on a manual body, and it remains useful if he subsequently gets an AF body. It's also a very highly rated lens using the latest optical technology.
Alex

 

[Ap507b]

Agree with lxdude & have never found AF lenses nice to focus manually. I found the less rotation from close focus to infinity made precise focusing slower for me.

As the OP has a manual focus camera I would be inclined to go for manual focus lenses with it where possible. Think they will give the best user experience with an FM2.

 

[lxdude]

I only make the point that the OP could get a new AF 50 for a similar price as a used AiS.

There's a reason for that.

It works perfectly well on a manual body, and it remains useful if he subsequently gets an AF body. It's also a very highly rated lens using the latest optical technology.
Alex

I don't find it works perfectly well. It works, but the stiction I mentioned makes it harder to focus precisely and makes its focusing feel very unpleasant, especially compared to the very smooth, light and precise manual Nikkors. Using it on my F3 makes the F3 feel like a cheesy plastic dime -store camera.
It's very sharp, but so are all the AI Nikkor 50's. It has been criticized for harsh bokeh, and I also think that's not as good as with the older ones.

 

[lxdude]

Maybe think of the 200mm F4 instead of the 180mm F2.8. Lens is slower yes, but it is lighter in weight, a lot cheaper to buy & optically very nice.

Agreed, and it has a little more reach. Its lighter weight makes it easier to handhold, IMO, even with the extra reach. I would get a 200, which are very inexpensive, and decide later whether the 180 is needed.

 

[James-EG]

I was looking at the 200mm f/4 before the 180mm but the reviews and images taken with the 180mm swayed me towards it more, however it does seem like a good idea to go with the cheaper telephoto beforehand. Especially since I'm not sure how much I would use a telephoto with film. Although that's a decision for another time!

it remains useful if he subsequently gets an AF body

I'm pretty sure I won't be getting an AF body anytime soon, after all I have a Canon DSLR for all my AF needs and I prefer full manual for film anyway, and like a couple of people said a used AI or AIS lens seems just as good or better than the AF lenses and with better focusing. Plus having two film bodies is probably enough for me right now. But thanks for the suggestions, being relatively new to film and new to Nikon I need as much information as I can get on the different lenses etc.

 

[Richard S. (rich815)]

Personally I think you should get either a 35mm or 50mm prime based on which "normal" perspective you like more. Use that alone for a year, later add new lenses as you feel the need after that.

 

[NDKodak]

I started with a 50mm, then gradually added a 28mm, 55 micro, 105mm. More recently I have added a 20mm and a 85mm. I find the 20mm has to much distortion. 50mm seems a little tight so I always leave the 28mm on by default. I would like to get a 35mm next.

 

[PtJudeRI]

After having a bunch of lenses for the past 15 years or so, the ones that see the most action are the 50mm and 35mm. Great performers, compact, quick, and they don't break the bank. The 50 is all many photographers ever need.

 

[Xmas]

The series E are full AIS very light in weight and you won't tell they were series E from the negatives.

They are like ugly sisters still wash dishes as clean.

 

[James-EG]

Unfortunately the AIS 35mm lenses seem to be quite expensive so I'll have a look at the AI ones, although still for now I'll stick to the 50mm f/1.8, I use a 50mm on my Pentax and never felt limited by that focal length. I'll also make sure not to forget and the E series lenses!

 

[perkeleellinen]

It would be fun to get just one lens and then when bored sell it to fund another. If you miss it you can always buy it again; there's so many of these lenses for sale. I take almost all my photos now on the 24mm - that's perfect for what I do (friends, family, scenes).

My advice: sell the Pentax and use the cash toward a Series E 28 or 35 or a Nikkor 50/2. Try to stick with one lens - having loads of possessions is for when you're older. Live light when you're young. Use your spare money for film and trips to new places.

 

[Ricardo Miranda]

Yeap, the Series E are very good lenses. I should know as I have all of them!
Don't discount the zooms as said above, particularly the 75-150mm F3.5 and the 70-210mm F4. All Series E zooms have a peculiarity: they all are constant aperture.

 

[Xmas]

All the Series E lenses are full AIs but they are missing the ears for Pre AI metering eg with a F2 meter, you can still use them for stopped down metering with a F2.
This is also true of later AIs lenses well!

They are multi coated and use a late glass catalogue.

They have more metal innards than the auto focus...

Any AIs or E series is likely to need a relube, the focus mounts will rattle when shaken.

 

[trythis]

Any AIs or E series is likely to need a relube, the focus mounts will rattle when shaken.

That hasn't ever happened to me but I will be looking out for it.

The series E 35mm is usually $100 give or take.

 

[Xmas]

That hasn't ever happened to me but I will be looking out for it.

The series E 35mm is usually $100 give or take.

Ok but Solver has a fixed $ quote for frequent repairs and one is new heliciod grease.

And my

24mm /2.8 AIs heliciod rattles when shaken
28mm /3.5 AI rattles
35mm /2.5 E rattles
5cm /1.8 E type1 rocks (just detectable play)
5cm /1.8 E type II rattled (before I stripped & relubed it)
5cm /1.8 AIs long nose rocks
5cm /1.8 AIs pancake no trace
85mm /2 AI no trace

If they get a lotta use the grease migrates there was no grease in my type II.

 

[trythis]

I guess I have been lucky with my used lens purchases. My only sloppy lens is a GDR Zeiss Jenna.

 

[Xmas]

They only need a relube, you may be buying collectors.

I forgot about my zoom

43-86 AI /3.5 no trace of shake at any setting

 

[Ap507b]

You have got me paranoid & going round shaking my Nikkors lol.

My 200mm F4 AI had a stiff focusing ring. I thought that it was dry so sent it off to be told that it was the reverse & that it was over packed. The smallest few stops of the aperture dial on my 85mm F2 AIS are stiff to select. Got a quote for this a few months ago at £90 to sort. Will do it one day as really like the lens. The helicoid is smooth. like all apart from one. Not too stiff. Not too loose.

Testing the rest of mine the only one that seems a bit loose is the 135mm F2.8 AI. Nothing that alarms me though.

I have 3 Pre-AI Nikkors, a 35mm F2.8 S, a 135mm F3.5 Q & an 200mm F4 Q & the helicoids seem fine on these too. Admittedly I don't know their history before I got them, but I would be surprised if all 3 had been serviced.

 

[GarageBoy]

Get a 35 F2 or a 50 of some sort and start from there. Only you know what focal lengths you'd want. I happen to like the 24mm Field of View, but I just picked up the 28 F2 and I'm loving it