Which MF camera?

Sirius Glass

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I greatly prefer 6x6. 645 looks too much like 35mm on much less film. 645 does not allow much left for cropping. I also believe in cropping before photographing.
 
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At today's prices the best bang for the buck is a Hasselblad. It will just take a little longer to by the next lens, but it is worth it.

Due to the devaluing of film gear in recent years, I was able to buy a Hasselblad. I wanted one for over 30 years. It's a great camera. I only touched one while I was a photo assistant. My original camera when I was a pro was a Mamiya RZ. Both the RZ and the Hassy have sharp lenses. I think it terms size, how good it feels in your hands, I prefer the Hassy.
 

Dan Daniel

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Some days I worry how scared you are of Rolleiflexes. It's like someone who got bit by a stray dog and every time they ever see a stray dog again they spend the next fifteen minutes telling you how bad stray dogs are. What DID a Rolleiflex do to you to make you so scared of them? Have you considered therapy?

Now let me tell you about the time I was using a Hasselblad and as I looked into the black hole of the focus screen after firing the shutter, a chicken in the shot was so scared by the mirror clunk that it ran at me from in front and pecked my toe so hard it bled!! And I couldn't see it coming because the godd*** mirror was still up.... The horror, the horror.... Things like that never happen with a Rolleiflex. Or a YashicaMat, Mamiya C220, Minolta Autocord, Rolleicord.... hmmm, what DO these camera have in common, eh?
 

film_man

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When they start having spacing issues the winding mechanism needs to be replaced and from what I've found out in the UK the parts are no longer available. May be fixable in the US but I wouldn't risk it. Great cameras otherwise...
 

markjwyatt

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... Things like that never happen with a Rolleiflex. Or a YashicaMat, Mamiya C220, Minolta Autocord, Rolleicord.... hmmm, what DO these camera have in common, eh?

Other than the mirror (SLR vs. TLR), there is a difference among all but one of those TLRs- only the C220 has interchangeable lenses.

In a related thought, my dog gets scared of the ultrasonic hum (I speculate) on autofocus lenses. A simple mechanical camera is no issue.
 

warden

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Why are you shouting?

I'd rather take one camera and one lens, and that's what I do even when I'm carrying a Hasselblad, which is no better than other quality MF cameras.
 

film_man

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Then you wake up and realise that some people are happy with just a standard lens. If someone wants the full gamut of focal lengths and tries to achieve that using fixed lens cameras well then that person is an idiot.

In any case, I would argue that when you are going on vacation you are not going on some national geographic expedition, hence carrying around 4kg of equipment (be it Hasselblads with lenses or 3 TLRs) is idiotic. But whatever floats your boat.

Finally, if you think you are being clever by carrying a Hasselblad with 3 lenses vs 3 TLRs...well let me introduce you to the Mamiya 6. The entire 3-lens outfit weighs just over what a 500CM with one 80mm lens does. As a bonus you can shoot it handheld at 1/8 (just like a TLR) while you turn yourself into tripod man trying to get something usable at 1/15 with the Hassy.
 
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removed account4

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hi OP
do you have any other requirements ?
do you need modern lenses, a modern body?
do you need to be able to remove and put new lenses on ?
do you need glass lenses or a lens at all ?
big or small camera ?
professional looking professional or just good looking ?

i ask all these question because you can easily buy a holga, or folding camera
zeiss ikon or nettar or strut camera or a TLR ( many many to choose from )
and still have a TON of $$ left over so if the camera can't be repaired ( anything can be repaired kind of sort of
especially if you send your camera to a shop with a lathe where parts can be made )
or you can buy a old professional camera that has probably been used like a cop car driven
so it looks nice but the guts are so warn out its got the equivilant of 900,000 miles on it ...
if it was me, i'd get something not too expensive and pocket the $$ so you can pay for repairs down the road
you can also get the pinhole or zone plate camera, sweet wooden hand made and make photographs that
your friends and family will wonder how you did it ...

good luck !
john
 

warden

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It's fun spending other people's money. The OP is in Asia so this might be no help, but in the US we have Keh.com which offers used gear with a warranty. I'm sure there are others. There are outstanding choices at the $500 and below price point. Rolleiflex, Yashica, Hasselblad, Fuji, all under $500 for a functional camera, with a lens, and with a warranty too. What a great time to be a film photographer.

And they have a Voightlander Bessa II (a 6x9 folder, perfect for walking) for $528 in excellent condition. If I didn't already have too many cameras and too little money that Voightlander would be on its way to me. 6x9!

If you take bad photos with any of the above the problem is not the camera.
 

Sirius Glass

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It is called Rolleiflex bling.


The rest of the world including me do not have a problem with that. Either cock the camera and advance the film or use a power winder which still weighs a lot less than three cameras. By the way, I often carry three lenses with me, it is part of my fitness program.
 
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chris77

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+11 but then there is still the rz67 or Rb
 

Sirius Glass

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If you carried three whole cameras you'd be healthier, and have better cameras too.


But then I would be cursed with the left right reversal [right left reversal in the UK] which I eliminate with a prism. Adding three prisms to the three Rolleis would really add to the weight and the bling.
 

AgX

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But I always thought it was just because of this that there is the term of "sporting a camera"...
 

warden

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But then I would be cursed with the left right reversal [right left reversal in the UK] which I eliminate with a prism. Adding three prisms to the three Rolleis would really add to the weight and the bling.

To quote Sirius Glass, "The rest of the world including me do no have a problem with that."
 

rbultman

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I'd pick a system for your first with a body+lens+back+whatever to make a complete camera that you can then go on and add to. Lots of systems fit this bill, including SLR's and rangefinders (though perhaps not in the $500 range).

I started in MF with a Mamiya 645, then picked up several other cameras and systems including MAT-124G, RB-67 Pro SD, Texas Leica, and a Frank folder. I love them all but frequently gravitate back to the 645 system due to the size (relative to RB) and the number of great lenses. The MAT and folder can be wonderfully limiting (think one camera, one lens, one film) and can typically be picked up for not much money.

I don't think you can go wrong with any of the recommendations given here.
 

Pieter12

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"If you print a rectangle from 6x6, you're effectively throwing away the extra negative area over a 645 system"

Besides the fact that the square format is a kind of zen for me, the advantage is you can think of it as shooting the equivalent of a horizontal and vertical 645 at the same time if you end up printing 8x10, etc.
 

lecarp

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Rolleiflex, what a wonderful way to justify buying three cameras. If you buy three hassy cameras is it out of fear two will Jam! Lol.
 
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Not true at all. The Pentax 6x7 / 67 cameras readily repairable by a competent service person who has worked on medium format cameras, some overhauling them to as-new condition. As with all medium format cameras available now, new parts are often taken from like-bodies during repairs. This introduces a cycle of redundancy and does not eliminate unreliability over time.
 
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Well... What do you do with your photographs? Do you actually print them? Or do you just scan your negatives?

Because if you actually print them, before stepping up to another format you should consider if the rest of your gear is ready for the step-up. Most enlargers that print 135 and 120 film can't print 6x7, so you will also have to change the enlarger. Accessories to convert a 135 elarger to 120 are not always easy to find by the way.

Perhaps if you explain more in detail what you have in mind to do, you would get more sensible replies rather than a full list of all the equipment affordable worldwide with your budget.
 
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As this seems to be a first MF camera, it will probably be the wrong one. At least I have never been able to settle before the 3rd or 4th try, so I´d start cheap with a Zeiss Ikon Super Ikonta 533/16. You should be able to find one in working condition (including rangefinder and light meter) for only half of your budget. A very good camera to start MF, small, handy, not so heavy, decent quality, good lens (even the uncoated ones) and relatively easy to service.

If you prefer a TLR, I´d try with an old Rolleicord or Rolleiflex Automat, which are both very good cameras, too.
 
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