Which "medium speed" b&w film is the fastest?

[NB23]

Thank you! for single handily keeping the film economy alive.

years of hoarding... haha

 

[removedacct1]

I have tried FP4+ at box speed, and I don't hate the results, but a little less grain would suit me better.

Then go with Tmax 100 and process it in Pyro. Grain will disappear, but you might have to expose at 80ASA to get optimal results. FP4 at 64ASA and processed in Pyro is miraculous.

 

[runswithsizzers]

Fomapan 200 gives 125-160 in XTOL, FP4 is easily 100 speed in XTOL. TMAX 400 is quite lovely in XTOL and finer grained than most ~100 speed films.

Thanks for sharing that. I have just a mixed up a batch of Xtol, and I just bought another roll of T-Max 400, so I will try that combination soon. According to your <Kodak T-MAX 400> webpage, you are recommending an EI of 320 for Xtol as you process it, replenished, with rotary agitation, right?

So, if I am using a small tank and reel, and times, temps & agitation per <Kodak's Data Sheet> would you recommend starting with EI 320? Obviously, I will do some test shots to determine where to go from there.

 

[runswithsizzers]

Thanks again to all who replied! For now, I am going to try the advice given in multiple suggestions for Kodak T-Max 400. Yesterday, I bought a box of T-Max 400 at my local camera store, and I was a little shocked at the retail price of $14(US), compared to $8 for Ilford HP4+ and $11 for Ilford Delta 100, but I can probably live with that, if necessary.

 

[NB23]

If it’s of any interest to anyone, here are a few quick thoughts;

FP4, by far the most beautiful rendition with a beautiful contrast. The best soectral sensitivity with delta 100 and tmx.

Tri-x, the worst imo (and I have 14 bulk rolls to go through...). Muddy and unspectacular vs tmy and delta 400.

HP5, the most flexible. You can do whatever you like with this film. Under, over, strecth it like an elastic, it will always give you good results.

foma 100, very flexible, great contrast and spectral sensitivity. Grainier than other 100 films, which is a plus if you are into a specific look.

TMY, probably the best 400 film ever. Grain, spectral sensitivity, it’s got it all.


Delta400, spectacular, but I dislike its soectral sensitivity, too geared towards red.

foma400, high on red sensitivity. You have to like that look. Ok for rugged street shots and fine with a 092 b+w filter.

Delta 100, excellent with a great old time look (yes, weird. But that’s always what I’ve got, someking of old tri-x look. Quite good).

Tmx100, super smooth, no grain, great soectral sensitivity.

Tmz, my favorite just because of its grain and curve. Fits me best, but I am weird so this is that.

If I had to recomend 2 films for anyone, for the rest of their lives, it would be FP4 and TMY.

For me, I’ll do as I always did, shoot all of them, I like them all equally on any given day (except foma400) , and TMZ, which is my favorite, I could live with this as my only film.

 

[removedacct1]

Thanks again to all who replied! For now, I am going to try the advice given in multiple suggestions for Kodak T-Max 400. Yesterday, I bought a box of T-Max 400 at my local camera store, and I was a little shocked at the retail price of $14(US), compared to $8 for Ilford HP4+ and $11 for Ilford Delta 100, but I can probably live with that, if necessary.

Ouch! If you paid $14 USD for it, you've paid far more than you would've if you'd bought from Freestyle or B&H or Blue Moon Camera. All three of these sellers list it at between $7.99 and $8.50 per roll.

 

[John Wiegerink]

My advice only comes from "tried and true" experience. Some of the film and developer combos above I have not tried and will not comment on. I cut my baby teeth on Kodak TRI-X in HC-110 dilution B. TRI-X and HC-110 for 35mm is very good, but I don't think it's what you're looking for. I had no problem with old Acros at ISO 100. Acros was also very "developer" friendly with almost all the developers I tried, including Rodinal. Grain was never a problem even in 35mm. I went through two 100" bulk roles and many 36 exp rolls. I also used it in 120 and got the same results. Haven't tried the new Acros yet so no comment.
If you don't want to fiddle and tune your film and developer then I agree with the folks above on the TMY-2 suggestion. ISO 400 is a Godsend when it comes to low light and handholding. Plus, TMY-2 and Xtol are a very easy combo to work with.
I might get shot down for this suggestion, but I have used it and like it a lot. That's HP5+ in Xtol Replenished. You can also use Xtol straight or 1 to 1, but I use it replenished. The grain is there, but it's not as bad as you would guess. Plus, that grain gives the illusion of a sharper image instead of a mushy one. Another thing to remember is that over-exposure and over-development only increase the graininess look in your negative. Since you already have Xtol, which is one of the best developers out there, I'd pickup three or four of rolls of HP5+ and shoot them at ISO 400-650-800 and 1000. Develop in Xtol 1 to 1 or straight if you prefer and see what you think. Remember, over-exposure, over-development and aggressive agitation are not conducive to keeping grain fine and sharp. Oh, Delta 400 is a fine film also, but I'd start with HP5+ first. Another plus of HP5+ is it's cost, but I'm a Hollander. JohnW

 

[Pentode]

Thanks for your input. Since you seem to be having pretty good results at ISO 100, do you mind telling me what developer(s) you use?

No, I don't mind at all. The three developers I keep handy at all times are D-76, Rodinal and HC-110.
I use D-76 diluted 1:1. I (usually) use Rodinal diluted 1+50 and I (usually) use HC-110 dilution H, which is 1+63.
I tend to like the traditional grained films in D-76 but there are exceptions: I love(d) all the Efke films in Rodinal, for instance, and I like Fomapan in both D-76 and Rodinal, depending upon the look I'm after. Silvermax also looked beautiful in Rodinal. These general purpose developers are very flexible, though, and you can actually get quite a few different looks from any of them with some experimentation. I tinker with other developers, but that really is just tinkering. When I just want to get a roll of film developed I reach for one of these three.

I have tried FP4+ at box speed, and I don't hate the results, but a little less grain would suit me better.

I rather like FP4+ in D-76. I don't mind the grain. Sure, the grain's not as fine as Tmax 100 but I like the tonality better. My go-to film years ago was Plus-X, just to give you a point of reference. My grain tolerance is pretty high.

I had <poor results from Acros II> at box speed....

I've only used ACROS a handful of times and was pleased with Rodinal 1+50.

I just went back and looked a roll of Kentmere 100, and it looks better than I remembered, and it is very reasonably priced, too!

I still haven't tried Kentmere and with hundreds of feet of ORWO UN54+ in the fridge it may be a while before I need to, but the consensus seems to be that, along with Foma, it's the best deal out there and quite good film.

 

[Pentode]

So, if I am using a small tank and reel, and times, temps & agitation per <Kodak's Data Sheet> would you recommend starting with EI 320? Obviously, I will do some test shots to determine where to go from there.

Your best bet is to shoot a test roll and bracket the heck out of it. Maybe shoot 640, 400, 320, 250, 200. It might seem like a waste of film but it'll save you a lot of time in the long run.

Delta 100, excellent with a great old time look (yes, weird. But that’s always what I’ve got....

I haven't used Delta100 in years but, going back through my negatives, I tend to agree. For whatever reason, D100 seems to have the most traditional look of all the T-grained films to me.

 

[runswithsizzers]

Ouch! If you paid $14 USD for it, you've paid far more than you would've if you'd bought from Freestyle or B&H or Blue Moon Camera. All three of these sellers list it at between $7.99 and $8.50 per roll.

Yeah, I know.

I do like the option to go buy a roll of film or a bottle of fixer when I need it right now, so I try to give the local camera shop at least part of my business. If it turns out I love T-Max 400, I will probably try to get the price down by buying in larger quantities.

 

[eli griggs]

My conclusions after having developed 500+ Films and having printed over 4000 prints in the last 6 months (yes, really)

Hp5 is easily 500 and even 640 in some developers.

foma 100 is 100
Fp4 is125
Tmx iis 80
tmy is 400
tri-x Is 320 and even 250
Delta 400 is 400
Delta 100 is 80/100
Foma400 is 250 and lower
Foma200 is 100/125

Which Tri-X, 400, Profesional, 320, etc?

 

[eli griggs]

Thanks for your input. Since you seem to be having pretty good results at ISO 100, do you mind telling me what developer(s) you use?

Likewise, which developers are you trying?

Personally, I've had good results with PMK, with Acros original, which I still have a few rolls tucked away like gold, I have yet to process the new stuff, which gets, it seems to me, mixed reviews.

 

[eli griggs]

It's easy to see we are talking about more than two perspectives on the 'Look' of a film TYPE/developer pairing, with traditional Films like Tri-X, HP5, Plus-X, etc on one side of the divide and T-Grain films and their developers on the other, and mixes of films/developers from either lot.

That makes for a bit more confusion, as the Aesthetic each of us favors, is a compounding mix of either/or.

Tmax 100, long ago, in Rodinal was a wonderful film/print look and we used it for many, many product and model shoots, on Kodak RC, papers and Oriental Seagull, in Dektol.

Tri-X used in D76, straight up or 1:1 was suppose to have the grain showing nicely, as part of it's traditional look.

I suggest you first come to terms on which film and developer and paper choices, as well as wet or dry printing methods you want to use and stick to them for a long enough duration to take a decision on what best conveys any part of you into your photography.

Even today, we have been spoilt for choice, so take your time and be sure to make good notes as to what works for your work and what might need further adjusting or, tweaking.

Your work can only improve by doing so, and it'll make your photography more simple in there being one less aggravating component, before you even step out the door for a shoot.

IMO.

 

[Sirius Glass]

Yeah, I know.

I do like the option to go buy a roll of film or a bottle of fixer when I need it right now, so I try to give the local camera shop at least part of my business. If it turns out I love T-Max 400, I will probably try to get the price down by buying in larger quantities.

My local camera stores are Samys and FreeStyle.

 

[runswithsizzers]

Likewise, which developers are you trying?

Personally, I've had good results with PMK, with Acros original, which I still have a few rolls tucked away like gold, I have yet to process the new stuff, which gets, it seems to me, mixed reviews.

I took a university class about 2 years ago; we used Rodinal (R09 One Shot) with Ilford HP5+, but that was 120. At home, shooting 135, I have only tried Kodak D-76, Adox Silvermax, and Kodak Xtol.

 

[Pentode]

....take your time and be sure to make good notes as to what works for your work and what might need further adjusting or, tweaking.

...and there you have the crux of just about everything related to darkroom work.

 

[Ko.Fe.]

100% agree. I've printed many scan-grainy negatives without getting visible grain (as I wished to have grain - based on scanning).

Scanning grain is usually pretty horrible compared to grain visible in prints.

I also vote for T-Max 400 - amazing quality.

Kentmere 400 @200 ain't bad either. Especially for the price.