Which Medium Format Camera should I buy?

[indy_kid]

My favorite is the Mamiya C series. Only the C220 and C330 shoot 220 film, but the lenses are compatible with all models, even the original Mamiyaflex.

The ability to swap lenses makes it very attractive when compared to the single lens on the Rolleiflex. Cheaper than the other choices mentioned. Build a lens collection over time.

 

[Sirius Glass]

Hasselblad has great availability of parts, service and support for the V Series, but poor parts and service for the 200 and 2000 series.

 

[BobUK]

A small question.

Although I do use the 645 format myself according to which camera I am using.
Why you are you looking to downsize in format ?
To my way of thinking progressing upwards to a larger format would have been the way to go.

Just curious.

 

[Chuck1]

Film is getting expensive...

 

[Paul Howell]

A small question.

Although I do use the 645 format myself according to which camera I am using.
Why you are you looking to downsize in format ?
To my way of thinking progressing upwards to a larger format would have been the way to go.

Just curious.

If you print square 6X6 is an upsized format, on the other hand as I generally print 8X10 and 11X14 so in the end in my case 6X6 is really 645. What I do like about 6X6 is I can crop either horizontal or vertical no need to turn a camera on it's side.

 

[Eff64]

Since it sounds like you want a Hasselblad anyway, I would just aim for that. Either the 501CM or 503CW are great cameras.

Personally I would look for CF or later lenses. Some people say they like the C versions due to smaller size, but David Odess told me before he passed away that parts for those older shutters were getting scarce.

CFI or CFE are my favorite because they focus so easily, but they are the most expensive too.

 

[srtviper15]

Since it sounds like you want a Hasselblad anyway, I would just aim for that. Either the 501CM or 503CW are great cameras.

Personally I would look for CF or later lenses. Some people say they like the C versions due to smaller size, but David Odess told me before he passed away that parts for those older shutters were getting scarce.

CFI or CFE are my favorite because they focus so easily, but they are the most expensive too.

Ok, I’ll probably just stick with getting a Hasselblad!

 

[skahde]

Parts for C-lenses are getting scarce as long as I can rember. With respect to this topic this means 25 years by now. Main springs were a notable item I recall as beeing unavailable since the end of the last millenium. You do see more of them offered with defects and in need of repair, though, which could be an indication of the parts-situation.

 

[Sirius Glass]

Parts for C-lenses are getting scarce as long as I can rember. With respect to this topic this means 25 years by now. Main springs were a notable item I recall as beeing unavailable since the end of the last millenium. You do see more of them offered with defects and in need of repair, though, which could be an indication of the parts-situation.

That is the reason that I recommend CF or later lenses. I use CF lenses for all but the two extreme lens, 30mm Fisheye C lens and the 500mm C lens. Why? Because they were offered at such a low price that I could not walk away from the offer. According to Hasselblad, all lenses should be stored cocked. They were designed to be stored cocked and it helps prevent jamming when putting the lens on the body.

 

[Arthurwg]

Film is getting expensive...

So is developer. I see that the price from B&H has just gone ups from $17 a bottle to $20.

 

[GregY]

If you dream of getting a Hasselblad, use your Yashicamat and keep saving.... don't waste your time on intermediate steps....

 

[RalphLambrecht]

I had a Yashica Mat 124G, same as yours, for a few years. I liked it so much than, to me, the next logical step was to have a "real" Rolleiflex - which went everywhere with me in the world for the next 10 years. It was the only camera I used for that period. Then the need/want to change lenses brought me into the Hasselblad world but I still use my Rollei regularly.

Hasselblads are great, possibly the smallest/lightest 6x6 with interchangeable lenses. It is a well thought out systems with loads of accessories.

If you find a 501CM, you'll be as well served as with a 503CW. The only difference between the two is that the 503CW has TTL flash, for an obsolete system you are unlikely to use. Mechanically/optically (=Gliding mirror system) they are identical, and were manufactured around the same years.

There are obviously other options, lower priced than Hasselblad.

I will let others answer about the Mamiya 645 but here's one question to ask yourself, do you want to shoot 6x6 or 6x4.5?

Hope this helps,
etn

only a Hasselblad will make you not regret!

 

[Pieter12]

Coincidentally, I was talking to a major NY fashion photographer who told me when he shot MF film, he would need 4 Hasselblad bodies on hand because at least one or more of them would inevitably malfunction during a shoot. Maybe that's why there are so many Hasselblad technicians.

 

[Alex Benjamin]

Ok, I’ll probably just stick with getting a Hasselblad!

Are you scanning, or printing in the darkroom? Makes a difference budget-wise.

If you are scanning, and have the budget for it, go with the Hasselblad.

If you intent on printing in the darkroom, or woud like to do so in the future, go with something cheaper, of excellent quality. Saying this because It's not only film that's expensive. Paper has gotten wildly so. That's the reason that for the urban landscape project I'm working on, I chose for 6x6 a Bronica SQ rather than the high-end Hasselblad. Solid body, and I can easily get a second one cheap for back-up just in case. Good variety of excellent quality lenses — enough quality, at least, for what I want and need. Leaves me plenty of money — well, OK, maybe not "plenty," but more than if I had gone with the Blad — for film (I shoot a lot of film!) and paper. Other savings I get from mixing my own chemicals.

 

[Pieter12]

Are you scanning, or printing in the darkroom? Makes a difference budget-wise.

If you are scanning, and have the budget for it, go with the Hasselblad.

If you intent on printing in the darkroom, or woud like to do so in the future, go with something cheaper, of excellent quality. Saying this because It's not only film that's expensive. Paper has gotten wildly so. That's the reason that for the urban landscape project I'm working on, I chose for 6x6 a Bronica SQ rather than the high-end Hasselblad. Solid body, and I can easily get a second one cheap for back-up just in case. Good variety of excellent quality lenses — enough quality, at least, for what I want and need. Leaves me plenty of money — well, OK, maybe not "plenty," but more than if I had gone with the Blad — for film (I shoot a lot of film!) and paper. Other savings I get from mixing my own chemicals.

Have you priced high-quality inkjet paper lately? It can be as expensive if not more than Ilford MGFB.

 

[Alex Benjamin]

Have you priced high-quality inkjet paper lately? It can be as expensive if not more than Ilford MGFB.

Hadn't look at inkjet paper prices. In my (admittedly narrow) mind, most people who scan their negs are content to work on them on the computer and post them either on social media or on their website, printing only those that really matter or that they intent to sell.

 

[Dan Daniel]

Have you priced high-quality inkjet paper lately? It can be as expensive if not more than Ilford MGFB.

Have you looked at Red River Paper?

 

[Pieter12]

Have you looked at Red River Paper?

No. I use Canson and Hahnemuhle, pretty much the standards for fine art printing.

 

[Sirius Glass]

only a Hasselblad will make you not regret!

BTDT, only Hasselblad will satisfy the itch.

 

[srtviper15]

If you dream of getting a Hasselblad, use your Yashicamat and keep saving.... don't waste your time on intermediate steps....

Thanks, I will do that!

 

[srtviper15]

Are you scanning, or printing in the darkroom? Makes a difference budget-wise.

If you are scanning, and have the budget for it, go with the Hasselblad.

If you intent on printing in the darkroom, or woud like to do so in the future, go with something cheaper, of excellent quality. Saying this because It's not only film that's expensive. Paper has gotten wildly so. That's the reason that for the urban landscape project I'm working on, I chose for 6x6 a Bronica SQ rather than the high-end Hasselblad. Solid body, and I can easily get a second one cheap for back-up just in case. Good variety of excellent quality lenses — enough quality, at least, for what I want and need. Leaves me plenty of money — well, OK, maybe not "plenty," but more than if I had gone with the Blad — for film (I shoot a lot of film!) and paper. Other savings I get from mixing my own chemicals.

so I do my own scans haven’t done my own developing yet. I aim to get there!

And don’t plan on doing prints in the near future in a dark room since I don’t have one set up.

Thanks for the tips!

 

[RezaLoghme]

I'm facing the classic dilemma of which camera to buy next.


Currently, I own a Yashica Mat 124G. I aspire to own a Hasselblad, specifically the 503CW, but I'll need to save up for it. In the meantime, I'll likely start with the 502CM. (After I save up)

I'm considering the Mamiya 645 Pro TL with an 80mm f2.8N lens. Can anyone suggest a reasonable price range for this setup, or recommend other alternatives?

Thanks!

In this thread you will receive a lot of suggestions what to buy instead of a Hasselblad.

If you want a Hasselblad, take your time and drum up the funds and buy the one you love.

In my life, the only people who encouraged me to take bold decisions were people who made bold decisions themselves. You are not going to read "buy the Hassy" posts from people who don't own one.

Let's assume you bought the 503CW - are you ever going to worry "Oh, should I have bought the Mamiya 645 instead?". Think about it.


-----

About the "CW" - are you really going to use a winder? If so, also consider a 555ELD or 553ELX, much cheaper.

 

[etn]

Coincidentally, I was talking to a major NY fashion photographer who told me when he shot MF film, he would need 4 Hasselblad bodies on hand because at least one or more of them would inevitably malfunction during a shoot. Maybe that's why there are so many Hasselblad technicians.

I need to bring a different data point here. I've been using Hasselblads for over 10 years now and never had a malfunction. Not a single one. Zero.

 

[Pieter12]

I need to bring a different data point here. I've been using Hasselblads for over 10 years now and never had a malfunction. Not a single one. Zero.

You probably don’t use it as much as a pro.

 

[bernard_L]

Are you scanning, or printing in the darkroom? Makes a difference budget-wise.

If you are scanning, and have the budget for it, go with the Hasselblad.

If you intent on printing in the darkroom, or woud like to do so in the future, go with something cheaper, of excellent quality.

Beg to disagree.
Scanning(§) and screen display limit the quality of the "end product" (the viewer experience) at a level below what a top-quality MF camera can deliver. Only a large (12x16" or above) print is consistent with the full potential of a MF negative.
The second option that you propose seems to me more homogeneous. I would bet that with a Perkeo/Skopar and wet printing better quality can be delivered than with Hasselblad/Planar + prosumer scanner + inkjet printer.

True, silver halide paper is expensive. But not all frames deserve to be printed; even fewer printed large. And, is it that expensive?
Wet printing:
Fomabrom variant 111 12x16" ~3€/sheet (more in 10-packs, less in 50-packs)
Inkjet printing from mail-order (serious, decent but nothing fancy)
12x16" Epson matte 190g ~7€/sheet;
12x16" Hahnemuhle Rag Satin 310 g ~17€/sheet
Inkjet printing at home, paper only (assumes the printer is paid for...and keeps working)
A3 ILFORD Papier Galerie Prestige Smooth 310g ~2€/sheet
A3 CANSON Papier Photo Infinity RC A3 270g ~2€/sheet;
A3 HAHNEMÜHLE Papier Photo Baryta FB 350g ~3€/sheet

Of course, if the photos live in computers forever, they don't cost much; but a different story.

(§)Assuming models up to V700/800. Flextight, drum are another story. And another budget, since we are talking budget-wise.