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Which lightmeter should I buy?

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Now stop that! :wink:
A spot meter isn't nice. Lots of work, big, lots of chances to get things wrong.
It has its use, yes. But "nice" a spot meter isn't.
 
Now stop that! :wink:
A spot meter isn't nice. Lots of work, big, lots of chances to get things wrong.
It has its use, yes. But "nice" a spot meter isn't.

Spot Meter is great.
Spot Meter is good.
Let us thank it for our mood.
:D
 
For MF, I use two light meters:

* Incident when I shoot slides (exposure keyed to avoid highlights blowing out)
* Reflected spot for when I shoot negatives (exposure keyed to ensure proper shadow placement)

That's it! Find any model that fits the category(ies) appropriate to the type of film you're shooting, and you'll have enough for a lifetime of shooting.

PS: When I shoot with flash (studio strobes) I actually mix and match incident readings (to balance light levels) with spot flash metering (to ensure proper tonal placements).
 
Is there an alternative to the Gossen Luna-Pro?

In Europe, look for the Gossen Profisix. Different name. No real explanation why. May be similar to the Nikon Nikomat in Japan and the Nikkormat elsewhere.
 
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Adding my two cents -- a spot meter and an 18% gray card unless you need a flash meter.
 
just be aware the selenium cells in the master V can die and are $$$$$$$ to replace (if you can find someone to do it). I have about 3 master V's I would sell cheap. none work.


Good morning, Bill;

You are in Southern California. Take your Westons to:

Quality Light Metric
7095 Hollywood Blvd Ste 550
Los Angeles, CA 90028

(323) 467-2265
 
In Europe, look for the Gossen Profisix. Different name. No real explanation why. May be similar to the Nikon Nikomat in Japan and the Nikkormat elsewhere.

Ralph:

You don't have to go as far as Europe - just go north a short distance :smile:.

In Canada, it was sold as the Profisix.

It may be that the US was the exception, and the rest of the world was the norm.

Matt
 
Sekonic L-208 Twin Mate, or L-398 Studio Deluxe, used.
 
Adding my two cents -- a spot meter and an 18% gray card unless you need a flash meter.

So an incident light meter (which is what you are trying to imitate using a spot meter + gray card) that also does flash.

It may be that the US was the exception, and the rest of the world was the norm.

That's exactly how it is.
 
I have always wondered whether the new fancy combined flash/ambient incident/spot meters can spot meter flash exposures......I hate using the buggers, and think they are overpriced and built about as solidly as a pre-fab shack, but that feature alone might be worth renting one every now and then, if it has it.
 
How about a Hasselblad knob meter? Nothing handier and if you know where to point it, plenty accurate for trannies. And, you should be able to find one in your price range.
 
I have always wondered whether the new fancy combined flash/ambient incident/spot meters can spot meter flash exposures......I hate using the buggers, and think they are overpriced and built about as solidly as a pre-fab shack, but that feature alone might be worth renting one every now and then, if it has it.

The Gossen do-everything Starlite (versions I and II) does.
The Gossen spot-meter-only Spotmaster (versions 1 and 2 - the best spot meters available) does meter flash as well.
 
Thanks.

...but none of the Sekonics do it, eh? The times I have fiddled with them, I sure couldn't figure out how to do it.
 
I think the Sekonic L-758 should do flash in spot mode, yes.
But i'm not 100% sure.
 
I've just read through the posts on this thread and am wondering what planet some of our members are on, the original poster says he has £35 (about $54 U.S) to spend, some of the meters that have been suggested cost around £ 500 !
 
A cosmetically challenged Gossen Luna Pro SBC or a regular Luna Pro in nice shape can be found in that price range.
 
What does this mean?

* Incident when I shoot slides (exposure keyed to avoid highlights blowing out)

Michel, could you please explain a bit more? I am a newbie with incident metering, have always started with "guesstimate" exposures with non-metered cameras, or built-in metering with capable cameras. As far as I am concerned, metering is for being precise. With incident metering, you measure the ambient light falling on the subject, and that measured value provides a particular ISO/aperture/shutter-speed combo. Now "if exposure keying" means "if a lot of bright areas in scene then back off a .5/1/2-stops to avoid blowing out highlights", then you are back to "guesstimates", aren't you? As slides require precise exposure, I am curious as to what you mean by "exposure keyed to avoid highlights" and incident metering?
 
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Most transparency films are more tolerant of slight underexposure than overexposure.
When I use transparency I'll rate it about 1/3 stop higher than box speed.
Just as many will shoot B&W at lower speeds to hold information in the shadows you can rate transparency film higher to hold detail in highlights.
 
Not another word from me here... nope!! :smile:

Except... SPOT METER!!

And... KNOW WHERE TO PLACE E.V. VALUES!!!
 
Ralph:

You don't have to go as far as Europe - just go north a short distance :smile:.

In Canada, it was sold as the Profisix.

It may be that the US was the exception, and the rest of the world was the norm.

Matt


Good morning, Matt King;

Thank you. I was not aware that we were the sole exception. It may also indicate the economic prowess of the US of A photographer if they were willing to make a special label for the meters they sent to him. Or, was this just something that the Bogen marketing people did to make it easier to be sure that it was one of the meters they had sold that was coming to them for warranty repair? We may never know.

And, indeed I do go just a little distance to the north. This coming summer the Pacific Northwest DX Convention will be held at the Hilton Metrotown in Surrey just to the east of you, being hosted by the BCDXA guys. Then next year the North American Rock Garden Society Western Division Winter Studies Workshop will be held in Victoria just across the gulf from you. (I am usually taken along to that event to serve as a chauffer and Sherpa.) We could be waiting for the ferry at Tsawwassen just a little way from you.
 
Ralph:

Hope you enjoy your visits to our fair land :smile:.

Matt
 
OK, here is the extreme solution to the meter issue.... Use your 50D as a meter for now, save your nickels and dimes until you have enough, and buy a Sekonic 758DR meter. It will never be outdated before you are long dead, and it will suit any metering need you might have between now and the dirt nap. It is a one time expense that you will never have to make an excuse for owning. It is rugged, waterproof, and simply amazing in all respects. It comes with an equally rugged case that has a belt loop, and it's software is upgradeable via USB connection. It not only suits all manner of ambient/flash/incident/spot metering situations that you might encounter with ease, but it sets the standard for accuracy as well. Also, for digital fans, it will map the "real" dynamic range of all of your digital cameras, and hold profiles for two of them in it's memory at any one time so you can even use it to squeeze the ultimate performance out of your 50D, and beyond.

It's not for everyone, but if you have the patience to save, it's nice to spend the cash one time, and always have the best tool for any metering task in your kit for a lifetime.

4434750394_7174e72fd4.jpg
 
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