which Hasselblad kit would you buy?

I NEVER, NEVER, NEVER , NEVER crop. My neg holders are filed to the edges as evidence of the fact (To me, cropping, for the most part, seems dishonest, something that should only be done if the photographer is somehow physically restrained from framing the image exactly as he/she would prefer to do!).

A rather silly and dogmatic opinion that has nothing to do with the OP's question (just an opportunity to shove your aesthetics down everyone's throat). Perhaps it's just to show the world you own a Hasselblad? Just look at the work of some great photographers (like David Plowden) and you'll see that adhering to some predetermined aspect ration for every photo is artistically constraining and in the end, just macho. It's nothing worth bragging about. You might as well say "I NEVER EVER use a tripod" or "I never EVER use anything other than f2.8!"

I don't understand where the concept of "dishonest" enters into it. The final image is what you determine it. You're implying that the viewer is being cheated somehow.

SFC///
I have been through parts a graduate programs twice in 20 years and there are folks every time that speak of heroic. Like the NEVER NEver guy.
Maybe this will make him happy, I print with filed cariers, but crop with a matt when framing. It's pretty hard to make a 8x10 or 5x7 print "honestly" with a square camera, but I do love when a customer appreciates that my square framing (even if it is cropped) works.
Dodging and buring?!?! Spotting, using variable grade paper/contrast filters... "all cheating".
That person must have some boring prints.

I hope the OP got some info, and I'll stand by my basic contention the the true beauty of Mr. Hasselblad's invention is you can carry ONE body with 2 or 3 or 4 films loaded (even that darn S16 back --read superslide), the Hasselblad will be the last camera I sell off, and the main reason I have two bodies now (still not duplicate lenses) is that I plan to give my son one and my daughter the other when I am old and blind.
PS>.. I use the humble waist level finder... and a old ugle PM 90 for aerial work, or if I am on a ladder, looking down.

#### I forgot, you can also carry a Digital Back with your film backs, I know this subject is verboten here, but we must realize thet a Leaf Aputs 17 that sold for $14,000 is now available used for about $5000 or less today, and it is worth every penny, aside from the slow IS0 50 speed, coupled with the Hasselblad/Zeiss lenses it still out-performs my D700. (unless you need/want to shoot above that low IS0)

I always drive with my eyes closed. That way I don't scare myself. This is true "courage"! The Best Hasse ever was the now all but extinct 205FCC. You can find a full set with lens; view finder;etc. on Ebay for about 5 Grand.

Bill

I use a 503CW, with metering prism and a metz. If your budget is limited, is buying all those lenses at once wise? Why not use some of the lens fund towards something a little better than 500 c/m? I mean, you can say a blad is a blad, and if you own one then yay, but IMO (and before I get cut down, it's purely opinion) buying 3 lenses on a limited budget doesn't seem to me to be the best idea.

I'm going to recommend something a little different. I d' started with just a 500c/m, 80mm CF lens, and a A12 back.....I bought all of them in OK condition, but freshly overhauled from David Odess. I definitely paid a fair amount more, but I ended up with a basically new camera. The camera came with a waist level finder. I was used to it from my TLRs, but I got an inexpensive, beat up NC2 45 deg prism and never use the waist level. I wish I started that way. In regard to lenses, I'd either get a 50 or a 150mm next depending on the type of shooting you do. The 150's are pretty inexpensive. The second purchase should also include a 16mm or so extension tube if you like to close focus. If you don't have one already, also budget for a good spot or ambient meter, filters and appropriate tripod.

What is your photographic style and what do you photograph? If landscapes, generally a long focal length lens is not needed while a wider lens will get more use. I have a 250mm lens originally bought with my mf system and over the years may have mounted it twice. Wereas, my widest lens is a 40mm and more oft than not I'd like something wider, the widest for my system is 30mm. My normal lens is 50mm and I almost never mount the normal 75mm lens. Lately I am finding my 2nd most popular lens is a 105mm. So my carrying kit is a 40mm, 50mm and 105. Before the 105 came on board, I carried the 40 and 50 plus a doubler. Had I known better my shooting style, I'd have foregone the 250 for the 105 and a 30 decades ago.

Goodness : a degree of intensity normally seen only in Leica forums..
From my own experience : the do-it-all-pretty -damn- well kit would be the 50/80/150 lens combo, and whatever 500 series body you like most (the body is only a lens & film carrier,right?). Plus at least two backs.
The Macro-Planar 120 is pretty cool,but too short for portraits.
The 40mm is massive,and overkill unless you are into architecture,in which case you should have a 4x5 with movements anyway.
Most of the prisms are overkill in this system,but the 45 degree NC2 is the best of the bunch.
Metering prisms - duh ! Carry a proper meter.
IMHO -the Hasselblad is a mediocre design redeemed by its superb optics.
I don't have experience of the 180,but you surely would need a short extension tube to make it a useful replacement for the good ole 150.
About which a famous photographer I once met (Crowned Heads;that sort of client , remarked "The most disappointing lens in the range".

I would at least buy the 500C/M not the 500C. The later c/m the better. The c-series are getting old and hence a lot of use, also you can't change ground glass, and they're pretty dim even with the 80/2.8.

I sold mine years ago and went RB67 instead, still happy with that decision. Although I sometimes miss the small size of the hasselblad.

Get yourself a 501 C/M (bigger mirror), one 50 CF, one 80 or even better a 100 CF, one 150 CF, couple of backs at least, one non-metered 45 prism, a solid tripod/head combo, load it with film and have fun.

If you can't have this in one shot, get the cube, the 80 or 100 CF, 2 A-12 backs, the 45 prism and shoot away, there you have...!


André

Budget no object: 203FE with Planar 110 F f2, 150 F f2.8, 50 FE f2.8, a 903 SWC superwide body with the 38mm f4.5 lens.
Budget an object: 501CM, 80mm CF f2.8, 150 or 180mm CF f4 (with a 16mm extension tube), 50mm CF f4 Non FLE.
Budget modest, but not parsimonious: 503CW, same lens kit as above but the CFi lenses and the FLE version of the 50mm.

Regardless of the kit above, allow for at least three A12 or newer E-12 backs. QUADRUPLE CHECK your backs and make sure they have a return privilege when buying used. I ran afoul of buying a cosmetically perfect A-12 that was worn out mechanically on the inside and could not be put right after two trips to the repair service. It produced highly uneven framing, with the first two frames on each roll abutting or overlapping, and then the remainder had excessive gaps between them.

Avoid the C series lenses (most chrome, some black). While they may work just fine, if the shutter fails on you, it may be a paperweight as the shutters are no longer made and certain parts are no longer available for them.