Which developer for b/w: ILFORD DDX or Rodinal/Adonal?

[Odot]

I am new to this so i am trying to figure out a decent mix of components for developing. Thanks.

 

[pdeeh]

you'll get a dozen different opinions and two dozen suggestions for other things, plus you haven't told us what film and
format you are using and whether you are all analogue or hybrid instead.
but.
I'd say, pick one and start using it. they'll both produce perfectly fine results if you follow the manufacturers recommendationr

 

[Svenedin]

DDX is excellent. I use it a lot with Ilford Delta films in particular. It is rather expensive though. Rodinal is used at greater dilutions, is cheaper and has a very long shelf-life. It's up to you really!

 

[Andrew O'Neill]

Pick one film. Pick one developer. Work with that combo for a while. See what happens. When I first started out, I had no clue. The guy at the photo counter (in Japan) said try this film (tmax 100) and this developer (some Fuji stuff). That's all I used for a couple of years. I learnt a lot about that film/developer combo. Then I tried D-76 diluted...

 

[Leigh B]

My standard developer for over half a century has been Rodinal.
It has a virtually infinite shelf life.

It's a one-shot, diluted 1:25, 1:50, or 1:100 for use.
There's no replenishment and no change in developing time.

It's a compensating developer. It treats dense highlights very gently, retaining detail.

I've been told that Adonal is the same thing, renamed due to trademark issues.
I don't know. I have a large stock of the original product.

A local processing lab I use for 8x10 negatives uses DD, the commercial version of DD-X.
The negatives come out great.

I only shoot slow film, 100 speed or slower, and no T-grain (T-max or Delta) films.
My preferred film by far is Fuji Acros in 35mm, 120, and 4x5, but it's not available in 8x10.
For 8x10 and sometimes smaller formats I shoot Ilford FP4+.

As other have suggested...
Choose one film and one developer and use them until you're familiar with them.

Once you understand the strengths and weaknesses of each, you can decide how or if to change.

- Leigh

 

[mehguy]

I started out with Rodinal. Has a very long shelf life and develops a lot of rolls. Its the only developer I've used and I've been fine with it.

Adonal is the same thing as Rodinal. There is also APH09, which is the one I use. I believe APH09 is an older iteration of the Rodinal recipe.

 

[Alan9940]

My preferred film by far is Fuji Acros in 35mm, 120, and 4x5, but it's not available in 8x10.

Not exactly... 8x10 Acros is available, but you have to buy through Stone when he does a "group buy" or anytime through Kumar. I've dealt with both and they're very professional. Otherwise, if you know someone living in Japan...

 

[Leigh B]

Not exactly... 8x10 Acros is available

Thanks for that info, Alan. I thought it was not made in 8x10 in the first place.

I have a batch of 4x5 Acros on the way from Kumar. I'll follow up with him on the 8x10.

Thanks very much.

- Leigh

 

[Odot]

Thanks for all of the advice. Since someone has asked, i shoot 35mm hp5 ilford and Pan F or T-Max and i only want to develop the films, no prints for the moment.

Could it be said that the developer is the most important ingredient for developing and that i shouldnt try to save money on this particular item? Or is it equally important?

While we at it, is this a good development kit? If so, why? I noticed that its quite expensive compared to if i bought the items from other manufacturers seperately. Thanks.

https://www.fotoimpex.de/shopen/dark...lab-kit-l.html

 

[mehguy]

Thanks for all of the advice. Since someone has asked, i shoot 35mm hp5 ilford and Pan F or T-Max and i only want to develop the films, no prints for the moment.

Could it be said that the developer is the most important ingredient for developing and that i shouldnt try to save money on this particular item? Or is it equally important?

While we at it, is this a good development kit? If so, why? I noticed that its quite expensive compared to if i bought the items from other manufacturers seperately. Thanks.

https://www.fotoimpex.de/shopen/dark...lab-kit-l.html

This is meant for a Jobo automatic film processor, which is probably not want you want.

You don't need much for black and white film processing. You need a film tank with reels, a thermometer, measure graduates, clothespins, a darkroom changing bag (not needed, but recommended) and a baby syringe.

When I started out, I had metal reels and tanks that I got second hand and I just used a clothes hanger and clothespins to dry the film.

Chemistry is typically cheap. Fotoimpex sells a bottle of Rodinal for 11 euros, and that bottle will go along way.

 

[Eric Rose]

PyroCat-HD

 

[Michael W]

Thanks for all of the advice. Since someone has asked, i shoot 35mm hp5 ilford and Pan F or T-Max and i only want to develop the films, no prints for the moment.

Could it be said that the developer is the most important ingredient for developing and that i shouldnt try to save money on this particular item? Or is it equally important?

While we at it, is this a good development kit? If so, why? I noticed that its quite expensive compared to if i bought the items from other manufacturers seperately. Thanks.

https://www.fotoimpex.de/shopen/dark...lab-kit-l.html

This kit looks like a better option for your requirements - a Paterson tank with 2 reels and some Rodinal.
https://www.fotoimpex.de/shopen/darkroom/fotoimpex-starter-kit-film-basic.html

 

[Odot]

This kit looks like a better option for your requirements - a Paterson tank with 2 reels and some Rodinal.
https://www.fotoimpex.de/shopen/darkroom/fotoimpex-starter-kit-film-basic.html

To my knowledge, i would have to roll the JOBO by hand (instead of shaking it) and that would help get consistent results. I dunno, i have never done this so i dont know how the results can differ from eachother if i do it by hand, compared to automation.

 

[Svenedin]

You don't shake a Paterson tank. It's not for making cocktails. You invert the tank gently.

 

[Odot]

You don't shake a Paterson tank. It's not for making cocktails. You invert the tank gently.

THats too bad, i pictured myself like this:

 

[Svenedin]

 

[klownshed]

Ilford have a guide to developing your first roll of film on their website. It's excellent, I used it and can thoroughly recommend it as it has all the information you need to get started.

Their guide uses DD-X as their example. HP5+ with DD-X is a good, very forgiving combination to start with.

Once you have the confidence that you know what you are doing, it can be fun to experiment with different developer and film combinations, and eventually you will probably find your favourites (which will possibly/probably be HP5+ and DD-X ;-)

 

[Michael W]

To my knowledge, i would have to roll the JOBO by hand (instead of shaking it) and that would help get consistent results. I dunno, i have never done this so i dont know how the results can differ from eachother if i do it by hand, compared to automation.

You can get consistent results with any method, as long as your technique is good. Paterson tank agitation is a very common and popular way to develop film. Excellent results are obtainable.

 

[darkroommike]

Pick one film. Pick one developer. Work with that combo for a while. See what happens. When I first started out, I had no clue. The guy at the photo counter (in Japan) said try this film (tmax 100) and this developer (some Fuji stuff). That's all I used for a couple of years. I learnt a lot about that film/developer combo. Then I tried D-76 diluted...

Couldn't have said it better, I will add that what ever you pick for a first combo make sure it's locally available and NOT difficult to source.

 

[Odot]

Since i mostly like HP5, i`ll settle for

DDX developer
Ilfostop
Ilford Rapid Fixer

Those wetting agents, are they REALLY needed? IS the difference really so big? While we at it, which of these components could i savce money from? Could it be said that the developer is the most important think and that i could buy "cheaper" stuff to still get good results?

 

[klownshed]

Since i mostly like HP5, i`ll settle for

DDX developer
Ilfostop
Ilford Rapid Fixer

Those wetting agents, are they REALLY needed? IS the difference really so big? While we at it, which of these components could i savce money from? Could it be said that the developer is the most important think and that i could buy "cheaper" stuff to still get good results?

ID-11 is cheaper than DD-X and quite similar in results. It's a powder that you can make 1L or 5 Litre kits. The 5 litre kit is especially cost effective.

Ilfotol doesn't cost that much and lasts forever.

 

[Odot]

ID-11 is cheaper than DD-X and quite similar in results. It's a powder that you can make 1L or 5 Litre kits. The 5 litre kit is especially cost effective.

Ilfotol doesn't cost that much and lasts forever.

The thing that kinda irks me about powder is the sudden death syndrome that no one can really tell why it happens and how to prevent it. Are the results much better with poweder compared to liquid?

 

[Svenedin]

I use Fotospeed stop and fix. For me (in the UK) these are a bit cheaper. For you, there may be cheaper local options (Tetenal for example).

Powder developers have to be made up into a "stock" solution which you then have to keep in airtight, opaque bottles. That may not be convenient for you. All developers have a shelf-life and can go off and eventually stop working. "Sudden death", an on/off phenomenon, was reported with early manufactured, 1 litre packets of powder developer, Xtol. It was a problem that was rectified and Xtol is no longer available in 1 litre packets.

Use a liquid developer to start with. It's easier and more convenient (but not the cheapest).

Wetting agents are used in the final wash and help prevent drying marks on the film.

 

[Leigh B]

All developers have a shelf-life and can go off and eventually stop working.

That's true of most developers, but not all.

In particular, it's not true of Rodinal, which lasts forever.
I've seen reports of decades-old Rodinal still working fine.

The other exception that I use is Diafine. It's a two-part developer that gets replenished by volume.
The two solutions last forever AFAIK. I've never had a problem with it after several years of storage and use.

This essentially infinite shelf life is one of the main reasons I use those two developers.

My photo work is sporadic, with high-volume peaks followed by zero effort for months on end.
I can't use a developer that dies in a few months. It's not cost effective.

- Leigh

 

[Svenedin]

I did say in post #3 that Rodinal has a very long shelf life. Forever, is a rather long time. Nothing lasts forever!