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Which developer for Agfa APX 100 & 400?

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thomsonrc

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Hi

I have decided to try Agfa film (35mm) as it is much cheaper than Ilford and I need to save money. What developers work well with these films? I usually use Paterson Aculux for HP5+ and FX39 for FP4, but I find I have to throw away a lot as it goes off pretty quickly. I wouldn't be averse to mixing a developer provided it was easy.

Cheers

Ritchie
 
If you want to save money on developer as well, take the time to do some calculations for whatever developers you are considering.

Ilford HC: The syrup is $40 per liter. This makes four liters of stock solution, so it ends up being $10 per liter of stock solution. At dilution H, stock solution gets diluted 1:15, so it takes 62.5 cents to make a liter of working solution. That is about 16 cents worth of developer for every roll of 35mm film. (At dilution B, which is more standard, 32 cents.) You also end up wasting very little, as the syrup is highly concentrated and keeps forever if you don't dilute it.

D-76 is $40 for the powder to make ten gallons of stock solution. If you dilute that 3:1 you have 40 gallons of one-shot working solution, making it one dollar per gallon and 25 cents per U.S. quart. This makes it about six cents per roll of 35. If you dilute the stock to a 1:1 one-shot, you spend twice as much, 12 cents per roll, which is still about one-third the cost of HC dilution B and still a little less than HC dilution H. If you were to use D-76 straight, reusing it with time adjustments after each batch, you can do ten rolls per quart, meaning 40 rolls per gallon, meaning 400 rolls per ten gallons, which makes it $40 worth of developer to process 400 rolls of film, or ten cents per roll. (Hardly worth losing the consistency of the 1:1 one shot method for only a two-cent savings per roll.)

In short, D-76 is the more economical developer, BUT ONLY IF you do not let it spoil. This means mixing up only as much as you will use to completion.

Might as well think of it this way since you are pinching pennies.

You can also bulk load your Ilford and not even have to switch! That will save you quite a lot of money. I highly favor Ilford to Agfa, personally. I would rather shoot half as much on a film I know and love than pay half as much for a film of which I am not particularly fond.
 
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Why not use the magic pair - Rodinal and APX 100? :smile:
And your problem with developers going off will be solved as Rodinal last almost forever.

APX 100 and Rodinal 1+100 gives me excellent results, thight, small grains and negativs which has a 'snap' to them!

Tom
 
I too use Rodinal, after having to change from Atomal FF. (Used to get some beautiful results with this developer!)
But I've also used D76 when I haven't been able to source Rodinal.
I feel that either one is a good choice, but if you asked me to pick my favourite now, it's going to be Rodinal.
 
Rodinal is a good partner - I like it particularly at the higher dilutions, 1+100 being my standard. Excellent with APX100, and while I've got nice results with APX400 in Rodinal, some people don't. That may be because I mainly shoot MF, rather than 35mm.

Another very good alternative, which works very nicely especially with APX400, is PC-TEA. This is a home brew developer, which, assuming you can source the chemicals, is very cheap and easy to make. Like Rodinal it lasts for a long time. 1+50 for 10 minutes is a good starting point.
 
Ritchie, as you are in Scotland, you should be able to get hold of regular Tetenal Ultrafin Developer from Silverprint (Darn Sarf). I've used ultrafin at 1:30 @ 68 deg f. with APX100 for years. The developer is cheap, keeps well and finer grained than rodinal.
 
It seems if I stick to the "old school" ways (Rodinol or D76 & APX 400) it seems that I am more confident with my shots. I can predict what the out come will look like exactly. That with my old 35mm Canons (A1 & AE 1 Program) makes for a good team. I have tried a fair amount of different developers and still come back to my favs.
 
I use FX39. I decant a fresh bottle into small brown glass bottles ranging from 100 ml down to about 20 ml.
 
Thanks for the replies everyone.

Kevin how long does the FX39 last like this?

Cheers

Ritchie
 
Hi Ritchie. I would be very confident in using six-month old FX39 decanted this way. Since I've been decanting I haven't seen that deep yellow colour which indicates expiring developer.
 
Rodinal for APX100. Xtol for APX400. That's what I've used, and it works very well. But you know what, I'll bet you can get great results with any developer for those films. They are excellent, and I've tried them with:
Pyrocat-HD/MC
Rodinal
Spring
Xtol
Ilfotec DD-X
Perceptol
D-76
Diafine
They all made fine negatives.
- Thomas
 
Thanks for the replies everyone.

Kevin how long does the FX39 last like this?

Cheers

Ritchie

Just to clarify, I may well leave it for five or six months before I decant it into smaller bottles, and it would usually be fine for another six months after that.
 
I had used several hundred feet of apx100 with pmk pyro, always loved the results. Very very sharp, great tonality.
 
Rodinal and APX100 shot at ISO64: this is the best you can have. Very very nice tonal range, but you have to like grain
 
If you try APX400 and Rodinal be careful because dev times listed online are largely for the old film and are way off for this specific combination. New APX400 and Rodinal really only works 1:25 unless you like really flat negs.

Both nice films, APX 100 is beautiful.
 
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