put the lens on T, trip the body shutter button, then trigger the lens, count your time, then re-trigger the lens.
You can also shut the shutter on T mode by slightly moving the shutter ring toward the 1-sec mark. Whether that's better and has less shake than recocking the shutter lever 30 degrees is open to debate.Actually, worse than that with most RB lenses (at least the 50, 90, and 250 that I have): you can't retrigger the lens to close; when in T, you can only close the shutter by recocking the body. For myself, I'll happily trade that off to have a fully mechanical shutter self contained in the lens. Yes, it can wear out -- but it won't likely fail dead without warning, and even if it does, I just put on another lens rather than scrap the body (or pay more than replacement to get it repaired).
Although I have a dual cable release, I usually release it as you do. What I find the dual release is good for is portraiture. It gets people to relax. When the first release goes off snapping the mirror up, the subjects think you shot them already. So they relax and act natural. Then you press the release a little more to actually release the shutter and capture their natural mood.I'm curious, how does the "correct dual cable release" improve things over prefiring the body (using the mirror prefire setting, i.e. orange mark on the lens shutter), then firing the shutter with a cable (needing only a single standard cable release), i.e. the same process you'd use with mirror prefire at any shutter speed (for instance, for very long lenses)?
For the last couple days I was watching a few RZ cameras that included the back and waste level finder. This evening two had sold just tonight, as there seems to be a run on these all of a sudden, leaving the one left. So I pulled the trigger on it. Its paid for. I was going to get the one out of Russia, but the guys negative feedback on a camera, and the fact he is based in the USA, gave me cold feet on it. So I felt a little better getting one out of Japan where they know these cameras and their descriptions are accurate. I also purchased today a 645 back for the camera. I'll get a 6x6 one later, as they are more expensive.The RZ is an excellent option.
It is moderately slow (f/5.2), long (173 mm) and heavy (1.62 kg).What is everyone's opinion on the RZ 100-200 zoom lens? Its the cheapest of the bunch, and I can start with it just to get me going.
I was wondering how its optical performance is, being an older zoom. Well there was a 100-200 on Ebay in excellent condition for $60 US dollars plus shipping. It worked out to $125 Canadian with exchange. So I got that one to get going.
Are you planning on getting the support bracket for it? I have a 350 APO lens with a support bracket. I never used it for the few times I actually used the lens, as my Gitzo tripod platform is big enough to securely support both lens and body.
I wasn't thinking of getting the bracket, but then again it wasn't on my radar yet. Im not sure what lenses I'll end up getting yet. I'd like to get the 50 for sure, but not sure if I'll get the 110 or 90? And other lenses will basically be what they end up costing.
Hey no worries on getting the zoom. You have more gear for your Mamiya then I will have for a while. Getting a normal lens is going to take me a long time due to its high price. Paying the same for the lens as for the camera itself. What lenses do you have for your RZ? As for the 100-200, you probably could have gotten it cheaper then you did. I paid $124 including shipping and found a cheaper one yet. No matter. Its splitting hairs. I see the 127, 180, 250, and 360 lenses going for not bad money. I'd have no idea on which of the last two I'd get. Maybe the 360? I might try for the 90mm. It would compliment the 6x6 and 645 backs I have or will be getting, including 6x7.
I love my SL2000F, but although it looks like a medium format camera, it shoots like a medium format camera, it features a large range of Zeiss, Schneider, and third party lenses like a medium format camera, it has removable backs like a medium format camera (and makes me dream of a 3008AF with modern autofocus and removable digital backs, something that will most probably never happen), it stays a 35mm camera…Rollei Rolleiflex SL 2000 F
I have four RB67 lenses. I shoot landscapes mainly, few portraits. I use the 90mm normal lens the most. Then the 50mm. Then the 180mm and then my 360mm the least.Hey no worries on getting the zoom. You have more gear for your Mamiya then I will have for a while. Getting a normal lens is going to take me a long time due to its high price. Paying the same for the lens as for the camera itself. What lenses do you have for your RZ? As for the 100-200, you probably could have gotten it cheaper then you did. I paid $124 including shipping and found a cheaper one yet. No matter. Its splitting hairs. I see the 127, 180, 250, and 360 lenses going for not bad money. I'd have no idea on which of the last two I'd get. Maybe the 360? I might try for the 90mm. It would compliment the 6x6 and 645 backs I have or will be getting, including 6x7.
Don't forget that the RB67 lenses work well on the RX67.
Thanks - corrected.RZed?
Campy, have you received your Koni-Omegaflex M yet? What are your initial thoughts? This is definitely off the normal medium format path. But I like unusual mechanical items like this.I have one on the way this week. Looking forward to comparing to my 6x6 cameras.
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