Admittedly, taking apart, then reassembling a zoom lens is not for the faint-hearted.
There are certain rare earth elements that cannot withstand any rubbing without leaving telltale scratches.
Honestly, doing this is not as daunting as you think. Work slowly and TAKE NOTES, NO MATTER HOW MUCH YOU THINK YOUR MEMORY WILL SUFFICE. There are plenty of cheap lenses around. You need a set of miniature screwdrivers (I got several sets at the Dollar Store years ago). For a 'spanner wrench' I use a very pointy pair of scissors (used for cloth)! I improvise always. Through the years I have kept tiny screws of all sizes that I keep in a small sealed container. Slowly, and frustratingly, you will learn some absolutes about lenses and also some things that can be different. You will break things. You will lose ball bearings that are used for the aperture click stops. You will lose the tiny screws that support those ball bearings.Some things you will not break. Always (and I need to learn to follow my own advice here) put a clean towel underneath the lens so that if something tiny drops you will not be searching on your floor that that item.
Learn and understand that slow is better and still, no matter what, you will fail at times. And there really will be times that you spend many hours only to finally break the @#!*% thing; but you have learned ... and no one can take that away from you. - David Lyga
I use snap ring pliers as spanner wrenches. And all those sets of cheapo screwdrivers are usually too thick at the tip, and that's how you chew up screws. So I file them thinner. When screws are too tight, I use the thumb of my left hard to push down very hard on the end of the little screwdriver, and a pair of piiers on the shaft to "break" the tight screw free. That way it doesn't slip out and chew up the slot. To put screws back in, I sometimes put a dab of hot glue on the screwdriver tip to hold the screw so I can start it. All self-taught hairbrain ideas.
For the front rings, I go to a hardware store and find a piece of pvc pipe fitting in the plumbing section, or improvise a similar correct-diameter hollow tube. Then I tear thin strips of duct tape to make a cushion on the edge of the pipe fitting. This cushion gives friction so I can push down on that lens ring to try to get a "grab" so I can start turning. Sometimes it works, sometimes it doesn't. Usually does eventually though. As for the super-tiny set screws, if you use a 50m lens turned-around-backwards, you will see that many of them actually have a very wide slot, and the cheapo screwdrivers may NOT be wide enough, and the slot therefore gets torn up beyond hope if you're not careful. I'm convinced if you send a lens off to Hassselblad or somesuch firm, they just throw away the screws and use new ones when they put your item back together. We don't have that luxury.
Another problem with those cheapo screwdrivers is that they are often soft. A soft screwdriver will chew a tight screw, even if it fits perfectly while a hard screwdriver will break - usually without damaging the screwhead. A light tap on the handle of a screwdriver will ofetn break a tight screw free. And the part of the screwdriver blade which fits in the slot nust be square with parallel sides, good screwdrivers are hollow gorund. Vaseline or even spit will hold a screw on the end of the driver, although if the fit is perfect it will stay there by itself.
Well, I mentioned the grease as a means without considering it's suitability for cameras. As a watchmaker, I file and stone the screwdrivers to properly fit whatever screw they're used on, if needs be. The screws are cleaned with the rest of the watch parts, the screwholes are cleaned by screwing a peg in and out, the slots are pegged clean and the screw is then replaced by placing it with a tweezers in it's hole and tightening. Wherever possible i put the slightest hint of oil on the threads, there are places in a watch where you can't do this.EvH, I do take issue with you on the use of grease to hold the screw on the driver. While I use that method all the time on working on machinery, autos, and the like. But when working with cameras, a wee dab of grease gets on your fingers and goes a long way. Seem like no amount of washing your fingers keeps it from getting all over the project, or it seems that way. I put a wee dab of hot glue on the driver, wait a few seconds and stick it in the screw slot. Holds tight, and after you get the screw started, the dab of hardened glue knocks right off. And no grease.
I live literally with grease and grime on my hands, but when working with cameras, it just doesn't mix at all.
I can write a short treatise on tweezers, their design and construction, if you like...I make my own sometimes because you can no longer find some of the special types watchmakers once used.
A watchmaker huh? Perfect man to ask my question. I have a Waltham pocket watch that has to be 125 years old, I'd guess. And I have to keep winding it and keep it running. Because if it stops and I have to pull out the stem, I feel like one of these times I'll break it. You have to pull on that stem so hard, practically with all your strength, and that just doesn't seem right. Otherwise it works perfectly. Inpuut appreciated.
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