• Welcome to Photrio!
    Registration is fast and free. Join today to unlock search, see fewer ads, and access all forum features.
    Click here to sign up

Where did the colour go with BW process.

Bob Carnie

Subscriber
Allowing Ads
Joined
Apr 18, 2004
Messages
7,735
Location
toronto
Format
Med. Format RF
So have you every wondered why the prewash is always blue/cyan, but when you use no prewash the first developer is clear.

this is something that has perplexed me for over twenty years, maybe a stupid question but can anyone enlighten me to what is happening here.
 

alienmeatsack

Member
Allowing Ads
Joined
Oct 28, 2013
Messages
146
Location
Oklahoma, US
Format
35mm
I think it depends on your developer and what kind of developer it is.

I've noticed that Diafine A tends to take on the color of the dye used heavily without a prewash. I'll presoak my 120 Arista films just so my Diafine isn't bright green. And other developers just come out looking like they went in even without a presoak. Maybe it's something to do with the developer canceling the color of the dye in some developers formulas perhaps?
 
OP
OP

Bob Carnie

Subscriber
Allowing Ads
Joined
Apr 18, 2004
Messages
7,735
Location
toronto
Format
Med. Format RF
Ok so the developer is ID 11 were there is no prewash.
 

removed account4

Subscriber
Allowing Ads
Joined
Jun 21, 2003
Messages
29,832
Format
Hybrid
hi bob

it is magic !

and i have poured a tray of AH dark blue into a clear tray of developer
it vanished ! ( i use ansco 130 to do this parlor trick )
 

Vaughn

Subscriber
Allowing Ads
Joined
Dec 13, 2006
Messages
10,283
Location
Humboldt Co.
Format
Large Format
Keep the lakes and oceans blue -- prewash your films!
 

ntenny

Subscriber
Allowing Ads
Joined
Mar 5, 2008
Messages
2,517
Location
Portland, OR, USA
Format
Multi Format
There's nothing special about blue, as far as I know. The old Efke films had a dye that came out in an attractive cherry red, and I think I remember reading that the dye in Tech Pan came out jet black.

But in general I haven't seen the dye disappearing completely in the developer. I mostly use HC-110 and PC-TEA as one-shots, and the used developer generally has the color of the AH dye, although over time it does tend to fade. Maybe it's only certain developing agents that do the job quickly.

Personally, I kind of like the ever-evolving colors of the Diafine A solution, by the way.

-NT
 

jim appleyard

Subscriber
Allowing Ads
Joined
Nov 21, 2004
Messages
2,421
Location
glens falls, ny USA
Format
Multi Format
Try Rodinal with either APX 25 (don't know if it works with other Agfa films) or Foma 100. A lovely shade of green with dump out of the tank.
 
OP
OP

Bob Carnie

Subscriber
Allowing Ads
Joined
Apr 18, 2004
Messages
7,735
Location
toronto
Format
Med. Format RF
Thats interesting, I am happy with my developer but wondering why no colour with D76 or ID11, maybe part of the components counter acting the AH>
Try Rodinal with either APX 25 (don't know if it works with other Agfa films) or Foma 100. A lovely shade of green with dump out of the tank.
 

Gerald C Koch

Member
Allowing Ads
Joined
Jul 12, 2010
Messages
8,131
Location
Southern USA
Format
Multi Format

The dyes used have no effect on development so presoak is a waste to time. Developer just has to work its color doesn't matter. In fact Ilford states not to do it with their films. AND the last time I used Diafine it specifically said not to presoak the film. Divided development depends on the dry film absorbing developing agent from the first bath. Presoak interferes with this and can lead to loss of film speed.
 

Rick A

Subscriber
Allowing Ads
Joined
Mar 31, 2009
Messages
10,031
Location
Laurel Highlands
Format
8x10 Format
My experience is the blue is neutralised in developer but not water. Sometimes it dissolves in the fixer and turns it blue, just depends on the film and developer I use.
 

Gerald C Koch

Member
Allowing Ads
Joined
Jul 12, 2010
Messages
8,131
Location
Southern USA
Format
Multi Format
My experience is the blue is neutralised in developer but not water. Sometimes it dissolves in the fixer and turns it blue, just depends on the film and developer I use.

Some dyes are de-colorized by reducing agents such as the sodium sulfite in developers.
 

MattKing

Moderator
Moderator
Allowing Ads
Joined
Apr 24, 2005
Messages
55,200
Location
Delta, BC Canada
Format
Medium Format
In fact Ilford states not to do it with their films.

In fact, Ilford states that a pre-soak is not recommended with their films.

And quite recently, Simon Galley clarified further, that by "not recommended" Harman means, "not necessary", rather than "recommended against".

Pre-soaking works fine - just be sure to be consistent with whether or not you do it.
 

lensmagic

Member
Allowing Ads
Joined
Nov 4, 2005
Messages
153
Format
Medium Format

Thank you very much for clarifying that.
 

ntenny

Subscriber
Allowing Ads
Joined
Mar 5, 2008
Messages
2,517
Location
Portland, OR, USA
Format
Multi Format
Some dyes are de-colorized by reducing agents such as the sodium sulfite in developers.

Aha---if it's the sulfite, that would nicely explain the cases where I do and don't see the color persisting. No sulfite in PC-TEA or HC-110.

-NT
 

Steve Smith

Member
Allowing Ads
Joined
May 3, 2006
Messages
9,110
Location
Ryde, Isle o
Format
Medium Format
So have you every wondered why the prewash is always blue/cyan, but when you use no prewash the first developer is clear..

Believe it or not, two days ago I processed a 120 film without pre-wash for the first time ever and wondered exactly the same thing. I usually use a few washes until the water doesn't come out blue but decided not to bother just to see if there was any difference in development (there wasn't).

Ok so the developer is ID 11 were there is no prewash.

I was using D76, so basically the same.

I was thinking about starting a thread here, asking the same question!


Steve.
 

photo buddy

Member
Allowing Ads
Joined
Dec 9, 2013
Messages
10
Format
Large Format
To shed some light on your mystery the color in the prewash is backing dye, the color of the dye is PH sensitive that is to say some dyes go colorless at certain PHs and are colored at others.
 

photo buddy

Member
Allowing Ads
Joined
Dec 9, 2013
Messages
10
Format
Large Format
Here is somthing you might try the next time you prewash keep some of the colored solution and add to it some acetic acid see if the color changes then take some of the solution and add some sodium carbonate or some sodium hydroxide see if the color changes. if you get a color change measure PH. I can also tell you different developing agents have different PHs as do the final solutions.
 
Joined
Oct 29, 2006
Messages
4,883
Location
İstanbul
Format
35mm
I experienced more than the magic , I bought AGFA Isopan 120 film , 20 years ago and developed with d76. All the developer turned to cherry red and 5 hours later , it was the purest black green , after 5 hours again , it turned to water transparency. It was one of my first experience with developing films and my hat blown !!!
 

Xmas

Member
Allowing Ads
Joined
Sep 4, 2006
Messages
6,398
Location
UK
Format
35mm RF
Try Rodinal with either APX 25 (don't know if it works with other Agfa films) or Foma 100. A lovely shade of green with dump out of the tank.

Dark grey to black with APX400S a PET based film.
 
OP
OP

Bob Carnie

Subscriber
Allowing Ads
Joined
Apr 18, 2004
Messages
7,735
Location
toronto
Format
Med. Format RF
Great minds think alike? or would simple minds be more appropriate.

Dinesh this is not an opening for one of your purile comments.
 

ic-racer

Member
Joined
Feb 25, 2007
Messages
16,729
Location
USA
Format
Multi Format

My Jobo dumps into the sink. So after the prewash there is still some colored water in the sink. Then, when the developer dumps out, I can see dramatically how the developer turns the colored water clear.
 

CatLABS

Member
Allowing Ads
Joined
May 20, 2011
Messages
1,576
Location
MA, USA
Format
Large Format
Bob,

Each film (or manufacturer) has its own dye type embedded it in. I used to like to think that this universal dye insertion was a way to tell you what films you are actually running in case you had no packaging. red, blue, green, black etc'... but in fact its just a part of the construction of the film, where PE when you need him?

As noted above the dyes get de-colorized/dissolved in the developer as part of its working process.

If you take your pre wash water which is colored, and drop just a few drops of developer in in there, you will see all the color vanishing before your eyes.
I used to do that demo at the first day of classes, it really is magic...

If you dont pre wash, the dyes get dissolved in the developer anyways as you run it, and you get clear developer when you pour it out.
 

Rudeofus

Member
Joined
Aug 13, 2009
Messages
5,119
Location
EU
Format
Medium Format
Each film (or manufacturer) has its own dye type embedded it in. I used to like to think that this universal dye insertion was a way to tell you what films you are actually running in case you had no packaging. red, blue, green, black etc'...
I believe that PE has stated a few times that these are sensitizing dyes. Remember, that AgBr by itself is only sensitive to UV light, and even AgI would only "see" blue or UV light. It's these special dyes that make an emulsion responsive to the parts of the light spectrum we want. After exposure these dyes are no longer needed.

It would be interesting whether it is the alkaline property (as suggested by photo buddy) or the Sulfite ion (as suggested by Gerald Koch) which does the work. Next time I'll save some of that wash water and treat it with Sodium Carbonate and a pH 6 mix of Sodium Sulfite and Sodium Metabisulfite. I shall report here if nobody does that test first.