Ah, well, I'm hardly Leica crowd and I hate mustard that's not bright yellow, but... yeah I can kinda see Leica M-series styling.Styling, not mechanics... I knew the Leica crowd would spit their grey poupon on the screen when they read that...
What a magnificent camera! Nice buy.It's a 11X14 Deardorff commercial camera, this one has a rotating 8x10 back, 75 inches of bellows extension, weighs 60 lbs, the stand weighs 350 lbs.
I love being crazy!.
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There's 2 huge lead weights inside the tubes, about 45-50 lbs each. The fellow (s) that had it during the last 70-80 years cut the posts down just enough that it will fit in a room with an 8 foot ceiling. The table was on upside down, a casting had a tab broken, I have a wonderful machinist in his early 70's who has fabricated a couple parts. The whole thing is now in my studio, which is rather civilized. My darkroom is my real caveWhat a magnificent camera! Nice buy.
1. Is that your garage, man cave, or shed? Looks like you have plenty of room.
2. Is the stand counter-weighted with weights that run in the tubes (like old US double hung sash windows)?
Thank you! Specs-wise, I think it mostly ticks off what I need. I'm going to be shooting slower anyways and a working TTL meter and full manual controls should be fine. I should be able to figure things out from there.I finally saw one of those in the plastic at a camera show a few weeks ago. For years (decades?) I've been reading that they're not "real Nikons" since they're made by Cosina. But I couldn't find anything wrong with it. It's spec'd about like a Nikon from 1980, but that's all most of us need.
Re. re-entering film photography, I found that my photography started getting markedly better when I came back to film. Something about knowing that each shot costs money makes us consider composition more carefully.
Nice pick-up.
I've never used film before despite being interested, but recently 2 old cameras have come into my possession so I'm taking the plunge.
Firstly a Kodak No.3 Autographic model G that belonged/s to my grandfather. I'm going to make up some film adapters and try and get it going.
I also just bought an Icarex 35CS for £10, all I've seen is one cr*p photo of it so have no idea of its condition...any idea what one of them is worth? I'm much hoping it was a bit of a find for that price...
Cheers
Just purchased a Bell & Howell Filmo 70-AC from early 1932. <snip> That camera won’t long for Kodachrome because KM didn’t exist then.
Kodachrome came out as 16mm and as Double-Eight film in June 1936, Type A(rtificial Light) in November that year. Yeah, Kodachrome was big, immense, great.It very likely did get some KM at some point, since the camera was surely still in service when KM came out (1938?)
Like it so far?Nikkormat FTn.
Like it so far?
I've often wondered how the FTn system handles zoom lenses, since it's pretty insistent on knowing the maximum aperture of the lens, unlike, say, a contemporary Minolta, where the camera only cares about the difference between the set aperture and wide open. I suppose it wouldn't really matter, right? Since the camera's meter would see the reduced aperture and just figure it out from there? I don't actually understand why the FTn has to know what the actual maximum aperture is.Hell yes! I had one about 30 years ago. I'd forgotten how solid the thing is! I'm waiting for a 35-105 zoom for it. Will shoot a test roll next week. Too many other projects going this weekend.
I've often wondered how the FTn system handles zoom lenses, since it's pretty insistent on knowing the maximum aperture of the lens, unlike, say, a contemporary Minolta, where the camera only cares about the difference between the set aperture and wide open. I suppose it wouldn't really matter, right? Since the camera's meter would see the reduced aperture and just figure it out from there? I don't actually understand why the FTn has to know what the actual maximum aperture is.
As for me, I get a ton of use out of mine with only a normal lens (1959-1960 Nikkor-S 5cm f/2). Have you noticed that at the extreme ends of either the shutter-speed scale, or the aperture scale, the metering is off? The two rheostat rings can each get dirty, and you could (as on mine) end up with significant underexposure if you follow the meter in low-light situations, or some other error. I hope yours is clean!
(Wait, did they make 35-105's back in the AI era? The biggest wide-to-tele zooms I ever see from that time are 35-70mm (I have this for Minolta) or 28mm-70mm (I have one for Canon), but of course, what I've seen doesn't mean much.)
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