Another Werra, werra 5, from a dealer in London, should arrive in the next day or so,
Richard
Richard
What's your latest new old camera? (Part 1)
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- Thread starter John Bragg
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A Nikon F from 1971 (according to serial) from Nikon Collector. With finders. 
That Exa is darling. I bet that's fun to shoot with.
Chrome FM2n. $103.50, plus shipping off the evil auction site. Everything works on it. Cosmetically decent, except for a dent in the prism. Former US military camera. Looks like it was refoamed recently, too. Already loaded up with Provia 400X.
-J
-J
A Canon FP with FL50mm F/1.8 both in decent condition for 27 euros.
Nikon FM2N.
Fed 4
Contax S2 with 28 and 50 mm lenses. Lovely camera! Keep me on my toes at all times and disconected from the rest of the energy dependent world
I just got another Olympus Pen, this time a Pen W with the black paint. The price was a little low, and when I recieved the camera I found a couple of problems.
First, the original Olympus filter was stuck on, and wouldn't come off. Turning the filter cause the entire aperture/lens assembly to turn as well, and the entire front lens assembly was loose.
Next, the viewfinder was quite foggy, and hard to see through.
I took off the top cover and remved the dust cover from the viewdinder assembly, removed the screws, and pulled out the assembly in one piece. I then soaked the glass elements (and the glue which holds them in place) with paint thinner. Once the glue was loose, I gently pulled out the elements, cleaned them, and then glued them back into place.
To repair the lens, I removed the three set screws which hold the focusing ring in place, and turned the ring and lens assembly leftwards until it fell out of the camera. I found that the circular nut which holds the lens in the collar had backed out. I tightened the nut, and then using a couple rubber wrenches, I was able to get the filter off. It appears the filter has never been removed, the front glass had no marks at all.
There was some haze on the rear of the front element, I removed the element and got the haze cleaned out. The aperture blades had no oil on them. I pulled out the entire shutter assembly, cleaned it out, dried it, and lubricated the mechanism with fine watch oil.
Putting the camera back together wasn't so difficult, but I had to set the lens to infinity using a ground glass and loupe, then set the focus ring to the infinity mark, and tighten the set screws. I also put in some new seals while the top cover was off.
The camera is now back together, and works beautifully, the shutter tested within 1/3 of a stop, which is close enough. I am shooting some film with it now, along with an Olympus 35 Wide S which I also recently bought.
First, the original Olympus filter was stuck on, and wouldn't come off. Turning the filter cause the entire aperture/lens assembly to turn as well, and the entire front lens assembly was loose.
Next, the viewfinder was quite foggy, and hard to see through.
I took off the top cover and remved the dust cover from the viewdinder assembly, removed the screws, and pulled out the assembly in one piece. I then soaked the glass elements (and the glue which holds them in place) with paint thinner. Once the glue was loose, I gently pulled out the elements, cleaned them, and then glued them back into place.
To repair the lens, I removed the three set screws which hold the focusing ring in place, and turned the ring and lens assembly leftwards until it fell out of the camera. I found that the circular nut which holds the lens in the collar had backed out. I tightened the nut, and then using a couple rubber wrenches, I was able to get the filter off. It appears the filter has never been removed, the front glass had no marks at all.
There was some haze on the rear of the front element, I removed the element and got the haze cleaned out. The aperture blades had no oil on them. I pulled out the entire shutter assembly, cleaned it out, dried it, and lubricated the mechanism with fine watch oil.
Putting the camera back together wasn't so difficult, but I had to set the lens to infinity using a ground glass and loupe, then set the focus ring to the infinity mark, and tighten the set screws. I also put in some new seals while the top cover was off.
The camera is now back together, and works beautifully, the shutter tested within 1/3 of a stop, which is close enough. I am shooting some film with it now, along with an Olympus 35 Wide S which I also recently bought.
- Joined
- Oct 25, 2012
- Messages
- 13
- Format
- Medium Format
I just got another Contax T3, my third T3. I got the first one when it was released, but sold it later because I was only shooting digital. I bought the second one, used, a few years ago when I started miss the film, then I got another one as a back up. I have a few complains about this camera, but I really like it. I also have T2 and T4.
Lumiere circa 1937
Canon FTbQL with FD50mm F/1.8SC arrived from France today.
Nikon N2000, an extra body for all my Nikkor lenses.
- Joined
- Jul 19, 2008
- Messages
- 298
- Format
- Med. Format RF
new to me
Black Nikon FA working but UG $10.
This is the first time I have had an FA and it doesnt have the quality feel of the FE2/FM2 and older siblings... I suppose it is the plastic pentaprism cover, mini L.C.D read out and cheap ISO setting dial.... But it works and it was only $10 so it will get used more than my pristine F....
David
Black Nikon FA working but UG $10.
This is the first time I have had an FA and it doesnt have the quality feel of the FE2/FM2 and older siblings... I suppose it is the plastic pentaprism cover, mini L.C.D read out and cheap ISO setting dial.... But it works and it was only $10 so it will get used more than my pristine F....
David
A beautiful Crown Graphic with 150mm Ysarex. And the 3-cell light saber and big green carrying box.
Kalimar SR200 and Helios 44-2.....which is basically a Zenit-E
Everything works, not bad for 20 bucks
Everything works, not bad for 20 bucks
EX+ grade Nikon F3P body from KEH.
-J
-J
AGFA Record III
This one has the Apotar and it is now cleaned out, loaded and in the bag with the other one, which has a Solinar. The only snag with these cameras is that a rubber spacer has to be made and fitted between the camera base and the quick release plate for the tripod. Apart from that they make lovely photographs.
RR
This one has the Apotar and it is now cleaned out, loaded and in the bag with the other one, which has a Solinar. The only snag with these cameras is that a rubber spacer has to be made and fitted between the camera base and the quick release plate for the tripod. Apart from that they make lovely photographs.
RR
A Canon EOS 5 (AKA A2). Together with my EOS 650 and EOS 50e I can now expect to have film EOS available some years to come. I don't actually know what their life expectancy is but I think the three of them sequentially might be better than mine.
EOS 650 is one big tank.
A Nikkormat FT.And I was doing so well... Until this January, I hadn't purchased any gear since spring 1998 when I bought a 105 Nikkor from Brooklyn Camera for an upcoming trip to Germany. In January I bought a Pentax H1a from a friend. A couple months later he found a Yashica TL Super and traded it to me for a cup of coffee and an egg McIndigestion. Then I got a 28mm Nikkor in August, then a shade for the 28, now the 'mat for a spare body... They say relapses are often worse than the original bout with addiction.
I got a Pentax MZ50 today for £5, it came into the charty shop my Mum works at. It feels cheap and tacky next to my other cameras and I dont understand these two strange barrel shaped things. Aparently it doesn't work without them.
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