What's your film workflow?

[avb]

I am curious to see others' analog workflows. I think we can represent our workflow by posting the preferred equipment we use at the moment. This is like the "what camera do you own" or "what enlarger do you use" threads but all compiled into one and looking at choices such as film and developer as well. Thanks so much for your participation!

If you can use the following format:

Camera
Lens
Film
Film Developer
Enlarger
Enlarger Lens
Paper
Paper Developer
Print Size

I'll go first. I'm currently doing colour photography, so:

Camera: Nikon F80
Lens: 50mm f/1.4D
Film: Kodak Portra 400
Film Developer: Argentix C-41 Kit
Enlarger: Saunders/LPL 4500XL
Enlarger Lens: Rodenstock Rodagon 50mm f/2.8
Paper: Fujicolor Crystal Archive II
Paper Developer: Arista RA-4 Kit
Print Size: 4x5 - 16x20" prints

 

[Sirius Glass]

Camera: Nikon N75, Nikon F100, Hasselblads, 4"x5" Graflex and Speed Graphic
Lens: many choices This is why I am Sirius Glass
Film: Black & White ==> Tri-X, HP5+; Color ==> Portra 400
Film Developer: Black & White ==> replenished XTOL; Color ==> UniColor 1 liter
Development Method: Jobo CPP processor, tanks and expert drums
Enlarger: Super Chromega Dichroic II 5D-EL
Enlarger Lens: 50mm, 80mm, 135mm
Paper: RC, FB
Paper Developer: Claytons
Print Size: Varies

 

[KennethLundgren]

Olympus OM4/Portra 400/Paterson/Tetenal C41/Macbook Pro/Plustek 8200/Vuescan/Lightroom.

 

[RPC]

How about exposure meter(s) on the lists?

 

[avb]

How about exposure meter(s) on the lists?

Add if you like to!

 

[Andrew O'Neill]

Camera: Homemade 14x17; Canham 8x10, 4x5; Mamiya RB67; 4x5 TravelWide
Lens: Nikkors and Fujinons; RB lenses
Film: Hp5, Fp4, TMY-2, Rollei IR, Acros, X-ray
Film Developer: Pyrocat-HD
Enlarger: I have 4x5 and 8x10 but for several years now have been into alt printing
Enlarger Lens: several Nikkors, and Schneiders
Paper: Arches Platine, Hahnemuhle, Stonehenge
Paper Developer: sodium citrate, or just plain old water
Print Size: 8x10 to 16x20

 

[grahamp]

Oh my. Workflow implies some organization...

Camera 8x10, 5x4, 8 on 120, 12 on 120, 15 on 120, 20 on 35mm (Pano)
Lens Anything in the approximate range of 24mm to 200mm (35mm) or equivalents where I have them.
Film HP5 in 8x10, Delta 100 or HP5 in 5x4, Delta 400 in 120, 35mm- it varies.
Film Developer (Shh...) Thornton Two Bath
Enlarger Beseler MX or contact
Enlarger Lens 240mm (8x10) down to 50mm (35mm)
Paper Multigrade warmtone fibre or commercial cyanotype
Paper Developer Multigrade or water
Print Size 20x16 (rare), 11x14, 8x10, 5x4 (contact).
Toners Selenium, sepia on gelatin silver, tannin on cyanotypes

Any or all of the above is subject to change without notice.

 

[Paul Howell]

Camera, 35mm, too many to list, 6X6, Yashica 124, D, Kowa SL and Super, 6X9 Mamyia Universal, Kodak Tourister, 4X5 Speed and Crown Graphic, New View (view Camera).
Lens 35mm 24mm to 600mm, 6X6 55 to 250, 6X9 55 to 150, 4X5 90, 127m 135, 152, 210
Film 35mm Ultrafine 100 and 400, Tmax 400, Kodacolor 100 to 400, Extar 100, Porta 160, MF, Foma 200, 4X5 Foma 200
Film Developer D76, Rodinal, Edwal 12, MCM 100
Enlarger D3, Optoma III, Federal Stowaway, Federal 6X9 converted to point source.
Enlarger Lens 50mm, 60mm, 75mm 80mm 90mm 105mm 135mm 150mm and 162mm
Paper Foma FB, grade 2 and 3 Multitone VC RC, still a few packs of Salvich grade 2 FB
Paper Developer D 72, Edwal Ultra Black
Print Size 5X7 to 16X 29

 

[David Brown]

Camera(s): Minolta Maxxum 7, Fuji 645, Mamiya c220, Mamiya RB67
Lens(es): many (as needed)
Film(s): depends on conditions and needs. Mostly Ilford Deltas at the moment (some Tri-X)
Film Developer: DDX or D-76
Enlarger: (2) Beseler 45MRX with Dichro 45S head and standard condenser head
Enlarger Lens: EL Nikkors of appropriate focal length
Paper: Ilford
Paper Developer: Ilford Multigrade
Print Size: up to 16x20

 

[faberryman]

Cameras: Olympus OMs, Minolta Autocord, Linhof Technikardan
Lenses: Zuiko, Rokkor, Schneider
Film: Ilford Delta 100 and 400
Film Developer: Ilford DDX
Enlarger: Beseler 45MRX with Aristo cold light head
Enlarger Lenses: 50mm, 80mm, 135mm Schneider Componon-S
Paper: Ilford Warmtone Multigrade
Paper Developer: Ilford Multigrade
Print Size: up to 16x20

 

[CMoore]

Camera: Homemade 14x17

Note to self.....build 15x18 camera and put this guy in his place.

 

[avb]

I love seeing these lists - lots of dedication and focus.
Any one else willing to share?

 

[mooseontheloose]

Maybe a little too much detail, but here we go (I added another category for darkroom):

Cameras: Nikon FE, Rolleiflex TLR, Holga (I have many others but these are my most consistently used cameras)
Lens: 50mm (equivalent) for all, go a little wider with the Nikon when needed (28mm or 20mm). Again, have many others, but these are what I use most of the time.
Film: 100 (Acros), 400 (HP5+ or Delta 400). For pushing I like Tri-X but with paper backing issues with Kodak I'm holding off on it except for 35mm. When I shoot colour it's Provia (100 or 400x). For infrared I shoot Rollei (infrared, Retro 80s/400s), and I still have lots of HIE (most of it is fogged though), Efke Infrared, and some Konica.
Film Developer: Acros (Rodinal 1+50), HP5+ @250 (Finol), Delta @640 (also Finol), all other films/ratings: D-76 1+1 (and occasionally XTOL or TMAX developers, depends on what's available). Due to water issues all developers are made with distilled water, which I have to import into Japan (you cannot buy it here), and of course, final rinse as well.
Development Method: 2-reel (120) steel tanks and reels, all processed by hand over the kitchen sink
Darkroom: Yes - it's a bedroom converted into dry darkroom where I enlarge and develop the prints (I have tables set up where I put the trays). The window is permanently blacked out and all I have to do is hang a blackout curtain over the door and I'm good to go. I use 2 red safelights since they are better due to the long exposures/development I have with lith prints sometimes. It also has a medium-size refrigerator where I store film and expired papers, and in the summer distilled water so I can cool down film developer temperatures (tap water runs at 30C or hotter in July/Aug/Sept). I do the washing in the kitchen due to the large sink size (it can hold at least 2 8x10 trays with room to spare) and hang both film and prints from laundry clips in the bathroom.
Enlarger: LPL 7700
Enlarger Lens: I mostly just use a Schneider Coponon-S 80mm, although I have others
Paper: For contact sheets and workprints I use Fujibro RC paper (cheap and readily available in Japan). I also have been using it for lith printing (the graded papers lith but the VC papers don't). But it's been discontinued so have started using Oriental VCRP-R for everyday use which I quite like and is the most affordable. I prefer Ilford papers but they are very pricey here in Japan. For the real deal I usually use Ilford Warmtone FB or Art 300. For proper lith I use legacy stock of Foma papers (mostly 131/132) - from before the emulsion change. I also have some old Forte paper that I've been saving for lith as well.
Paper Developer: I have been a blind devotee to Ilford Multigrade for over a decade, but have switched to Chugai "My Developer" for work prints/contact sheets because it's significantly cheaper and has a much longer shelf life once opened. I have since moved over to Chugai for everything else too ("My Stop", "My Fixer", "My Washup" - welcome to Japan!). I use Fuji's Drywel as a photoflo substitute since it's the only option we have in Japan. For lith I use Moersch Easy Lith or SE5 and sometimes LD20 if I can get my hands on it.
Paper/Printing Size: I love using 9.5x12" (FB) paper, and usually print up to 8x8" on the paper. For smaller (work) prints I do 5x7 on 8x10. However I probably due 4x6 more than any other because of the Postcard Exchange.

 

[avb]

Maybe a little too much detail, but here we go (I added another category for darkroom):

Cameras: Nikon FE, Rolleiflex TLR, Holga (I have many others but these are my most consistently used cameras)
Lens: 50mm (equivalent) for all, go a little wider with the Nikon when needed (28mm or 20mm). Again, have many others, but these are what I use most of the time.
Film: 100 (Acros), 400 (HP5+ or Delta 400). For pushing I like Tri-X but with paper backing issues with Kodak I'm holding off on it except for 35mm. When I shoot colour it's Provia (100 or 400x). For infrared I shoot Rollei (infrared, Retro 80s/400s), and I still have lots of HIE (most of it is fogged though), Efke Infrared, and some Konica.
Film Developer: Acros (Rodinal 1+50), HP5+ @250 (Finol), Delta @640 (also Finol), all other films/ratings: D-76 1+1 (and occasionally XTOL or TMAX developers, depends on what's available). Due to water issues all developers are made with distilled water, which I have to import into Japan (you cannot buy it here), and of course, final rinse as well.
Development Method: 2-reel (120) steel tanks and reels, all processed by hand over the kitchen sink
Darkroom: Yes - it's a bedroom converted into dry darkroom where I enlarge and develop the prints (I have tables set up where I put the trays). The window is permanently blacked out and all I have to do is hang a blackout curtain over the door and I'm good to go. I use 2 red safelights since they are better due to the long exposures/development I have with lith prints sometimes. It also has a medium-size refrigerator where I store film and expired papers, and in the summer distilled water so I can cool down film developer temperatures (tap water runs at 30C or hotter in July/Aug/Sept). I do the washing in the kitchen due to the large sink size (it can hold at least 2 8x10 trays with room to spare) and hang both film and prints from laundry clips in the bathroom.
Enlarger: LPL 7700
Enlarger Lens: I mostly just use a Schneider Coponon-S 80mm, although I have others
Paper: For contact sheets and workprints I use Fujibro RC paper (cheap and readily available in Japan). I also have been using it for lith printing (the graded papers lith but the VC papers don't). But it's been discontinued so have started using Oriental VCRP-R for everyday use which I quite like and is the most affordable. I prefer Ilford papers but they are very pricey here in Japan. For the real deal I usually use Ilford Warmtone FB or Art 300. For proper lith I use legacy stock of Foma papers (mostly 131/132) - from before the emulsion change. I also have some old Forte paper that I've been saving for lith as well.
Paper Developer: I have been a blind devotee to Ilford Multigrade for over a decade, but have switched to Chugai "My Developer" for work prints/contact sheets because it's significantly cheaper and has a much longer shelf life once opened. I have since moved over to Chugai for everything else too ("My Stop", "My Fixer", "My Washup" - welcome to Japan!). I use Fuji's Drywel as a photoflo substitute since it's the only option we have in Japan. For lith I use Moersch Easy Lith or SE5 and sometimes LD20 if I can get my hands on it.
Paper/Printing Size: I love using 9.5x12" (FB) paper, and usually print up to 8x8" on the paper. For smaller (work) prints I do 5x7 on 8x10. However I probably due 4x6 more than any other because of the Postcard Exchange.

Don't worry - the detail is great! Helps us understand your process.
Great addition for category - darkroom.
Mine is my garage - I just try to block out light as much as I can or process at night.
My RA-4 prints go into the developing tube pretty quickly so usually I don't see any sign of fogging.

 

[removed account4]

camera-delmar box camera
lens - simple meniscus
film- expired 4x5 sheet film, expired is the key
fllm developer - home roasted sumatran beans brewed 2x large scoop of washing soda, smaller scoop of vit c
mixed with 20cc of dektol, d72 or ansco 130 .. tupper ware tray ( 5x7 + cheep ) anywhere from 8-30 sheets processed at once
water 2 mins to unstick, then developer for 9-10 mins constant shuffle, water ( no stop ) fixer water, perm awash, wash, tapwater +1-3 drops of photoflo
hang on string to dry
print - expired rc paper ( kodak polymax or rebranded ilford ) contact printed not enlarged, 300watt bulb usually around 5-10seconds
==
print developer - the same mix as print developer + starter bath of whatever stock developer i used dilute 1:2. as soon as the image appears it goes into the coffee

 

[Lucid]

Camera - Nikon F5
Lens - Nikon 85mm 1.4 or Nikon 35mm 1.4 G
Film - Kodak Tri-X 400. Currently shooting at 200 and developing at 400. In my next few rolls I may bump up to 320 and dev at 400 to see the difference compared to the previous rolls.
Lens Filter(s) - Hoya K2 or Hoya YA3 Pro
Film Developer - Fresh Kodak D-76 1:1
Development Method - Hand inversion in JOBO 1530 with 500ml working solutions. One roll processed at time.
Enlarger - LPL C7700 (with some personal modifications)
Enlarger Lens - Nikon 50mm F2.8N
Paper - Ilford MGIV Gloss, but will shortly switch to the Pearl variant
Paper Developer - Kodak Dektol at 1:2
Print Size - 8x10, though I plan do some 4x6 if I can get on board with the next postcard exchange.

 

[Lucid]

Maybe a little too much detail, but here we go (I added another category for darkroom):

Cameras: Nikon FE, Rolleiflex TLR, Holga (I have many others but these are my most consistently used cameras)
Lens: 50mm (equivalent) for all, go a little wider with the Nikon when needed (28mm or 20mm). Again, have many others, but these are what I use most of the time.
Film: 100 (Acros), 400 (HP5+ or Delta 400). For pushing I like Tri-X but with paper backing issues with Kodak I'm holding off on it except for 35mm. When I shoot colour it's Provia (100 or 400x). For infrared I shoot Rollei (infrared, Retro 80s/400s), and I still have lots of HIE (most of it is fogged though), Efke Infrared, and some Konica.
Film Developer: Acros (Rodinal 1+50), HP5+ @250 (Finol), Delta @640 (also Finol), all other films/ratings: D-76 1+1 (and occasionally XTOL or TMAX developers, depends on what's available). Due to water issues all developers are made with distilled water, which I have to import into Japan (you cannot buy it here), and of course, final rinse as well.
Development Method: 2-reel (120) steel tanks and reels, all processed by hand over the kitchen sink
Darkroom: Yes - it's a bedroom converted into dry darkroom where I enlarge and develop the prints (I have tables set up where I put the trays). The window is permanently blacked out and all I have to do is hang a blackout curtain over the door and I'm good to go. I use 2 red safelights since they are better due to the long exposures/development I have with lith prints sometimes. It also has a medium-size refrigerator where I store film and expired papers, and in the summer distilled water so I can cool down film developer temperatures (tap water runs at 30C or hotter in July/Aug/Sept). I do the washing in the kitchen due to the large sink size (it can hold at least 2 8x10 trays with room to spare) and hang both film and prints from laundry clips in the bathroom.
Enlarger: LPL 7700
Enlarger Lens: I mostly just use a Schneider Coponon-S 80mm, although I have others
Paper: For contact sheets and workprints I use Fujibro RC paper (cheap and readily available in Japan). I also have been using it for lith printing (the graded papers lith but the VC papers don't). But it's been discontinued so have started using Oriental VCRP-R for everyday use which I quite like and is the most affordable. I prefer Ilford papers but they are very pricey here in Japan. For the real deal I usually use Ilford Warmtone FB or Art 300. For proper lith I use legacy stock of Foma papers (mostly 131/132) - from before the emulsion change. I also have some old Forte paper that I've been saving for lith as well.
Paper Developer: I have been a blind devotee to Ilford Multigrade for over a decade, but have switched to Chugai "My Developer" for work prints/contact sheets because it's significantly cheaper and has a much longer shelf life once opened. I have since moved over to Chugai for everything else too ("My Stop", "My Fixer", "My Washup" - welcome to Japan!). I use Fuji's Drywel as a photoflo substitute since it's the only option we have in Japan. For lith I use Moersch Easy Lith or SE5 and sometimes LD20 if I can get my hands on it.
Paper/Printing Size: I love using 9.5x12" (FB) paper, and usually print up to 8x8" on the paper. For smaller (work) prints I do 5x7 on 8x10. However I probably due 4x6 more than any other because of the Postcard Exchange.

I'm digging this. Nice to see another C7700 user.

My bathroom is a temporary darkroom, so I have to spend an hour each side of my dark room to setup and pack away. Do you use trays or a vertical type tank?

 

[mooseontheloose]

I'm digging this. Nice to see another C7700 user.

My bathroom is a temporary darkroom, so I have to spend an hour each side of my dark room to setup and pack away. Do you use trays or a vertical type tank?

I remember those days! I don't print that large, so there's enough room for 4 (9.5x12) or (11x14) trays on the tables I use. Since I'm not working on any major projects, most of what I've been doing is contact and work prints, so I use the 9.5x12 trays to develop 8x10s, but have two 8x10 trays for water baths on the side (one to rinse off the fix, one as a holding bath). When I do print larger (9.5x12) I use the 11x14 trays but then I have to set up some extra trays on stools, since I don't have enough room with dev-stop-fix1-fix2-water1-water2 trays! For washing I just use trays (sometimes stacked on one another) but am looking to buy a vertical washer when I have some extra cash.

I was lucky with the enlarger - I got it for free (and a bunch of other darkroom stuff) from someone who was clearing out her house for her growing family. All it cost me was about $40 for the taxi ride to get it to my place. I like it a lot.

 

[pdeeh]

Camera: Whichever one's got film in it
Lens: See above
Film: Whatever film I found in the drawer/box/'fridge/behind the junk mail
Film Developer: d23 or rodinalia
Enlarger: wtf is an 'enlarger'?
Enlarger Lens: ditto
Paper: Yes
Paper Developer: Water
Print Size: 6x6 mostly sometimes

 

[NedL]

Gotta go to work right now. No time to type.
I don't really have a "workflow" ... I'm all over the map.
A simplified version: http://www.f295.org/main/showthread.php?19723-adventures-in-calotypes
Or the instructions here: http://www.ipernity.com/doc/nedl/45071014
Or "poke a hole in a tin can and put some photopaper in it -- no other development or steps required, just a few hours to a few months time!"

 

[spijker]

Camera: Mamiya 645 AFDIII, I find this system a nice balance of quality, functionality (interchangeable lenses and backs, autofocus, accurate TTL metering, fast focal plane shutter), negative size, equipment size/weight and cost.
Lenses: Mamiya & Phase One 45mm, 80mm, 150mm, 75-150mm.
Film: Ilford Delta 100 & 400
Film Developer: Ilford DD-X
I develop film in a Paterson tank with plastic reels. I have a single and double reel tank. As long as the reels are dry, I have no problems with getting the film in.

After developing the films, I photograph the negatives with a DSLR. The enlarger head is turned upside down and holds the negative. I use a 50mm enlarger lens with reverse ring and a helix adapter to the DSLR. The digitized negatives are inverted and adjusted in Lightroom. This process is fairly quick and it enables me to select what I'll print in the darkroom and a basic idea on how to print it; crop or not and where it needs burning or dodging. Lightroom does not give me an exposure time, grade or burn/dodge times. That is still done through test strips.

Darkroom: Our small basement laundry room doubles as my darkroom. It doesn't have any window but has nice countertop above the washer & dryer and a small sink. For paper processing, I use a Nova Quad 16x12 inch vertical slot processor with built in heating. I use the 4th slot for the wash-aid. This "toaster" saves me a lot of space and (setup/cleanup) time. For washing I use a 5-slot Nova 16x12 inch washer (the old model). Se-toning is done in a tray. Both Nova's were purchased used on eBay. My process timer is the "Darkroom Timer" app on my android phone that I use for both film and paper development. Paper exposure is done following the f-stop method using a plain IC-timer. Building an Arduino f-stop timer is on the to-do list but hasn't happened yet. A micro stereo set provides some nice background music.

Enlarger: LPL 670 (=7700) with a VCCE head and the glass universal negative carrier. AN glass on top, plain glass at the bottom. I take a few minutes to check and clean the negative and glass surfaces for dust. Using a cheap LED light pad, a loupe and the Ilford anti-static cloth works well for me and I have no dust issues.
Enlarger Lens: Apo-Rodagon 80mm. (I used to use a Componon-S 80mm and I can't see a quality difference with the Apo-Rodagon).
Paper: Adox MCC, Adox Fineprint Variotone, Ilford Classic (current)
Paper Developer: EcoPro, Adox MCC, Ilford MG (current)
Print Size: I've standardized to printing at 33.5 cm x 25 cm (4:3) on 11 x 14 inch paper. It's a nice size to hang framed on the wall and it still fits in an album.

All equipment was bought used, most through eBay (worldwide), some local. I get most of my film, paper and chemicals at a local photo store (Galaxy Camera). Adox products usually at Fotoimpex in Berlin.

Menno

 

[Doc W]

Camera: mostly Wisner 4x5 or Kodak Master 8x10
Lens: on the 4x5, mostly 150mm Apo Lanthar or 90mm Super Angulon; on the 8x10, 14 inch Commercial Ektar
Film: FP4, Panchro400
Film Developer: Perceptol with FP4; D76 with Panchro400 (both home-brew developers); process in Jobo CPP2
Enlarger: Devere 504 Dichro (500W) with 4x5; contact print with 8x10
Enlarger Lens: Rodenstock and Schneider
Paper: mostly Ilford MGIV (classic or WT)
Paper Developer: home-made version of Dektol
Print Size: almost always 8x10

I also shoot MF, occasionally in colour.

 

[Michael Firstlight]

Cameras: Pentax 67II 6x7 with AE viewfinder
Lenses: Various lenses - favor the 45mm and 75mm most, but also 135mm or 200mm tele on occasion
Tripod/Head: Gitzo carbon fiber w/ RSS BH55 head w/ camera QR bracket
Primary Films: Tri-X and Ektar 100 (120)
Primary Film Developers: D-76 or TMAX (B&W); and C41 (color)
Development Method: Phototherm Sidekick SK8 (automatic) 35mm through 4x5 (4 and 8 reel tanks)
Darkroom: Yes, but needed only for exposing and loading film and paper most of the time; no need for wet side, running water, drainage, or manual temp control with Sidekick and Fujimoto processors.
Enlarger: LPL 670MXL Dichroic (670MXL in USA - aka 7700 in Europe) w/various carriers, AN glass, lenses and accessories
Easel: ByChrome16x20 vacuum easel w/FS (use movable mag strips for positioning)
Grain Focuser: Omega Peak Micromega Critical Model 1
Timer: Gralab 900 w/FS
Primary Enlarger Lens: Schneider Coponon-S 80mm
Color Analyzer: Colorstar 3000
Safelight: NuArc DLB1325 Bubblite Darkroom/Photo Lab Overhead (large)
Primary Paper: Ilford Multigrade FB (B&W) and Fuji Crystal Archive II (color)
Paper Processing: Automatic Fujimoto CP32 processor up to 11x14 with dryer and replenishment units (dry-to-dry)
Paper and Film Processing (one-offs): Jobo CPP2 with lift and various tanks, reels, loader etc
Film Drying: Prinz Film drying head and plastic enclosure (Mistral-like)
Paper Drying: Air rack or fiber-based dryer
Paper Developer: Dektol (B&W) Arista RA-4 Kit (color)
Paper/Printing Size: 8x10 through 16x20 in-house
Film Scanner: Nikon Super Coolscan LS9000
Digital printing when film scanned: Epson 7880 (up to 24" wide)
Other: Typical traditional wet and dry items and manual processing (tanks/trays etc) for occasional use
MIA: Good dry mount press - also considering adding 4x5 field view and 4x5 LPL dichro/VCCE enlarger (been years since I did 4x5)

 

[xtolsniffer]

Camera: Nikon FM3a, Nikon F3 or Mamiya C220
Lens: 20mm to 50mm on the Nikon, 80 or 55mm on the C220
Film: HP5 or Delta 3200 in the Nikons,Rollei IR in the C220 (works as a normal 400asa film without the R72 filter.
Film Developer: ID-11 for the HP5 and Rollei, Microphen for the Delta 3200 (exposed as 1600, developed for 3200)
Enlarger: LPL 6700
Enlarger: Lens: 80mm Schneider Componon-S
Paper: Ilford Multigrade, standard or warmtone (both Pearl finish)
Paper Developer: Ilford Multigrade developer
Print Size: Usually 5"x7" on 10"x8" paper (with a 1.5" border all round) but also up to 12"x16", the largest I can go on the baseboard.

Family photos are Nikon F100 on Portra 400 but are sent off for processing. I don't have enough time to print up albums of family photos in colour. The lab does an excellent job.

My darkroom is in a shed inside my garage....