What's your favourite & most used darkroom tool?

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ic-racer

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The favorite would be my EG&G (Edgerton) sensitometer. These pictures show it WITHOUT its protective outer shell. The innards represent a degree of excellence in engineering and workmanship that no longer exists in consumer products. For example, the chassis is gold anodized aluminum. All the wires are number coded. All the components are number coded. The components on the circuit board are carefully soldered and positioned on the turrets. Most of the screws are chrome plated. And none of this is seen with the cover in place.

The circuit of this device is derived form the circuits used for Edgerton's high-speed photography. Its a real piece of history, and it works perfectly.

EGGinsides.jpg

EGGbottom-1.jpg

EGGtop.jpg
 
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ragnar58

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Most of the time when darkroom equipment is discussed, it is focused on enlargers, lenses, dry mount presses, and such higher priced items. Low-tech and low-cost things are never mentioned in these discussions. I’m sure that there are many simple items that make life a little easier in the darkroom.

Here are some of my favorite low-tech things:

Drafting Right Triangles. Used to help align vertical or horizontal lines with the easel blades. It can also be used to check that the easel blades are square.

Small Clamps. These are the really small spring clamps in hardware stores and spring type clothespins. The clamps are used to hold two or three mat boards together at desired angles and configurations. I found black ones and others could be painted. The clothespins (spray painted black) are used to hold larger burning/dodging sheets. If I want to burn the sky, I may use a rejected dark print and cut the shape needed to match the skyline. These sheets can be hard to keep flat during the burn so I have a heavy mat board with a large cut out. The clothespins are used to hold the sheet flat against the mat board frame.

Rejected Prints. Besides the use for dodging and burning mentioned above, I have one other application. It is a common practice to use the backside in the easel for cropping and focusing. I also mark a scale in fractions of inches from each edge. I have a nice Saunders easel but I find the printed scales on the easel are not precise enough to get even borders. The marked scales on the rejected print will align each edge much better and will not interfere with its use for cropping and focusing. I use this print until it becomes too dog-eared and hard to insert in the easel then I just make a new one.

Blue Painters Tape. This can be used to secure a large number of items such as dodging and burning tools. The better tapes don’t leave a residue and if removed within a reasonable time will not tear matt boards and such. I also cut it into small points and place them on the easel blades to help identify the start/stop locations for burns for faint images.

Florist Wire. Very narrow and dark which helps in dodging. Its only weakness is that it is so thin it will wobble and prevent steady control on a dodging shape even with short lengths of wire. Since any two points are along a single line, I have used this wire to hold two dodging shapes on a long piece of wire and dodge two locations at once. The wire extends across the entire print and is held with both hands. Short pieces can be taped to flatten and reinforce projections (such as trees or buildings) in the horizon/skyline shapes for sky burning when using rejected prints.

Magnets and Smaller Pieces of Mat Board. Test prints will sometime need to focus on small areas of the image. If the image is uniform, a smaller test strip will be sufficient. If there is a lot of variation in the image, I’ll use a full sheet with the mat boards and magnets to divide it into smaller areas. The base of the easel is steel and the magnets will hold the mat boards in place.

Foam Piping Insulation for Sink Edges. I saw this in a newsgroup years ago and will attest to its effectiveness. This is the insulation pieces sold to cover 3/4" or 1” hot water pipes. It has an adhesive strip to keep it in place. This makes a nice surface to rest your arms when processing. It is much better than an unpadded sink edge even when rounded.

Now one high-tech item.
A light table with a magnifier on a boom-arm. This is used for:
aligning negatives in the holders for enlarging,
neatly cutting down a roll of 35mm,
reducing or intensifying negatives, and
making burning/dodging masks.
 

Larry Bullis

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Some good suggestions here. Just a couple of comments.

Rejected Prints. Besides the use for dodging and burning mentioned above, I have one other application. It is a common practice to use the backside in the easel for cropping and focusing. I also mark a scale in fractions of inches from each edge. I have a nice Saunders easel but I find the printed scales on the easel are not precise enough to get even borders. The marked scales on the rejected print will align each edge much better and will not interfere with its use for cropping and focusing. I use this print until it becomes too dog-eared and hard to insert in the easel then I just make a new one.

Don't you find that prints having been washed/dried have changed dimensions slightly? I sacrifice a piece of new paper for a setup sheet, which can have a number of easel configurations on it. Using a print for this, I found, doesn't give me borders in the right places.

Florist Wire. Very narrow and dark which helps in dodging. Its only weakness is that it is so thin it will wobble and prevent steady control on a dodging shape even with short lengths of wire. Since any two points are along a single line, I have used this wire to hold two dodging shapes on a long piece of wire and dodge two locations at once. The wire extends across the entire print and is held with both hands. Short pieces can be taped to flatten and reinforce projections (such as trees or buildings) in the horizon/skyline shapes for sky burning when using rejected prints.

I prefer the black steel wire that the hardware store sells in coils. It is fairly easy to bend into shapes, black and thin enough. Using the tool higher up makes the wire's thickness unimportant. It's not very thick anyway, I think it's about 18 guage.

A jeweler's chain plier has round jaws and is very useful for bending wire into rounded shapes.
 

Jim Noel

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So what's your...

1) favourite darkroom tool (apart from music)?
2) most used tool (apart from the rubbish bin)?

Sometimes the answer may be different to each question.


I mix so much Xtol, I couldn't do without my magnetic mixer.

My brain!
 

Ken N

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That's another pint you owe me Richard. Having said that - I am now looking forward to using the process timer as well!

Mark

Hey, what's this all about? I've been promoting Richard's products left and right and he's never offered to buy me a pint!!!

...I feel so used...

:wink:
 

ic-racer

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How is it used? .

It has a glass plate onto which a density step wedge is placed. There is a little switch on the cover to the glass plate. So you put a strip of film under the cover and press down and it fires the strobe, making a contact print of the step wedge. This unit fires at either 1/100, 1/1000 or 1/10000 of a second. Edgerton wanted it to be able to test for reciprocity during high speed (short duration) flash photography. In general darkroom use, though, the high speeds are not needed.

The EG&G is featured in this on-line Navy Photography course: http://www.dofmaster.com/courses/basic/photographycourse-281.html
 

ic-racer

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thanks.

do you often use it?

I love stuff like that.

Since I also have a Wejex (with an incandescent bulb) the EG&G is kind of a backup. I use them to determine the development time for new film/developer combinations. For example I know that T-max film in T-max developer prints well for me with a gamma around 0.65 to 0.61, so when I got some Delta 400, I guessed at a development time and processed a control strip. It came out at 0.75, so I knew that development time was too long .

I got the sensitometers about 5 years ago, to prepare for a time when I may no longer have the luxury of being able to standardize on a single film/developer combo. I have used Tmax/Tmax exclusively since it came out in the 80s but I sense this will eventually be discontinued. With this setup I can determine reasonable development times in a straight-forward manner.
 

ic-racer

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With the sensitometer, making H&D curves is easy. I always thought that everyone learning photography should be taught how to make the H&D curve. Understanding how the curve is made would make any subsequent discourse on exposure and development easier to understand. With the rise of digital, these sensitometers are affordable.
 

Rob Vinnedge

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My VWR magnetic stirrer/hotplate that Larry (bowzart) recommended to me 30 years ago (it still works like a charm), and my four digital thermometers mounted in position above my sink for precise tray temperature monitoring.
 
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