For street photography, I want a camera that is easy and fast to use. I most often use a wide lens, prefocus and set exposure, then point and shoot--many times barely lifting the camera to my eye (and sometimes just from chest level) as I pass the subject.
https://pdekoninck.cargo.site/Street
Thanks.Spectacular images
Spectacular images!
Was curious what everyone favorite cameras are for street photography? Don't get to shoot street photos too often where I live but love my Olympus XA2.
I ran around Paris using a Rolleicord and a Nikon FA and the year before it was around Hungary+Romania using Yashica-Mat along with a Fujica ST-801 (M42) and I can only say that I prefer the Rolleicord and the Fujica in the end. I think the M42-lenses are easier for zonefocusing than the Nikons, and also I dont get confused by the built-in lightmeter when using the mechanical Fujica since I use it without batteriesI guess a M42 Pentax would do just as well.
Fujica with a 35/2.8 i had just found in a local shop:
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Nice . What do you think of the Yashicamat?
This is a great plan. Not sure about the zoom P&S, as they have crappy lenses compared to the early prime-lensed ones.For night work I like a point and shot with fixed 38 to 45mm 2.8 with Tmax 3200, I develop as a +1 push. For daylight, zoom point and shoot with Tmax 400.
TLRs are a double-edged sword. On one hand, a lot of people tend not to pay much attention to you. On the other hand, some people want to chat about the old-fashioned camera a bit too much. As for Mamiya vs. Rollei (flex or cord) the Mamiyas are more versatile, but not at all compact, compared to a Rolleiflex. On the negative side is that they have very limited depth-of-field, compared to 35 mm, so snapshots aren't as easy.Hear me out here. Try not to laugh.
Just about any TLR can work well for street photography.
The problem with rangefinders and SLR's and almost anything else (and I do use them all) is that your subjects respond differently when they feel that a camera is pointing at them. You may see them looking right into the lens, building tension. So then you end up with a lot of intense looking photos where the subject is looking into the camera. Do you then take photos of people from behind? From far away? Just to get that candid moment.
With the TLR, navel-gazing into the chimney viewfinder from above, it's not so threatening to subjects. You don't look like you're about to take a photograph, and most folks will tend to just go about their business.
I took this with a Mamiya C330. But really any TLR with a chimney viewfinder should work fine. I'd love to get into a Rolleiflex someday.
Great tactic.For street photography, I want a camera that is easy and fast to use. I most often use a wide lens, prefocus and set exposure, then point and shoot--many times barely lifting the camera to my eye (and sometimes just from chest level) as I pass the subject.
https://pdekoninck.cargo.site/Street
Have you ever shot in a city in which subjects are more aggressive and hostile, feeling like they have a right to privacy, even while in public? There's also the capturing candid moments aspect, which is damned hard to do when we alert them to our intent by raising a camera to the eye.View attachment 237531 Really, it’s whatever you are comfortable with and shoot quickly with. I Have found that for me, it’s a fixed lens rangefinder or SLR with a wide prime. However, I’ve never understood the reason behind a waist level finder. If it’s for stealth reasons, I don’t agree. There is no reason for stealth or sneakiness in street shooting. Just shoot with whichever rig you are quick and comfortable with.
I hate to be a smartass, but you're going to have a hard time setting an M3 to f16.Leica M3 is the only camera I would use for "Street Photography" Set on F16 it captures every nuance without looking thru the viewfinder. ' Anointed ' 1996 Photo copyright 1996 David Reynolds
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